[Healeys] Clutch

Mark Donaldson ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz
Thu Sep 2 16:22:58 MDT 2021



In cases like this I have used the old engineers’ trick to ‘hydraulic’ the pilot bearing out.  

Fill the cavity behind the bearing with oil, insert a ¾” OD drift into the bearing, give it a solid belt with a hammer, and it SHOULD pop out.  

This procedure has never failed me.  I say SHOULD, as it may not have worked for you.

And don’t wear a good shirt whilst doing this.  😊



Ardmore, NZ



-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Felts <Tomfelts at windstream.net> 
Sent: Thursday, 2 September 2021 8:00 AM
To: BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch


I currently have my BJ8 tranny out.  I have had the OD completely completely rebuilt and having a few well worn tranny components replaced.  The worst part of taking out the tranny and rebuilding is getting the old pilot bush out and  a new one installed.  If anyone thinks the Healey clutch is a tough job, I invite you to replace clutch components in an E Type.  The engine must be pulled with all that has to be disconnected.  I'm in the process of removing mine now. That carbon TO bearing rubbed itself down to metal:):)

----- Original Message -----

From: BJ8Healeys via Healeys < <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> healeys at autox.team.net>

To:  <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> healeys at autox.team.net

Sent: Wed, 01 Sep 2021 15:01:11 -0400 (EDT)

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch


In January 2014, I removed the gearbox and overdrive from my BJ8 to fix a problem with the O/D slipping (low oil pressure) and a bad clutch judder in reverse that I had put up with for too long.


I replaced the clutch release bearing for convenience and because I already had the new one in hand.  The new bearing carbon block from Moss Motors measured 10/32" thick.  The old one (also Moss Motors, installed September

1997) measured 9/32".   That was only 1/32" wear in 80,534 miles, but mostly

long-distance ones.  A photo of the old clutch disc is attached.



Steve Byers




BJ8 Registry


AHCA Delegate at Large


Havelock, NC  USA



From: Healeys [ <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell

Sent: Wednesday, September 1, 2021 11:55 AM

To:  <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> healeys at autox.team.net

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch



As for clutch longevity, there are several significant variables: (your) location, type of driving, driving style, etc. For example, if you DD your car in San Francisco, I wouldn't expect a clutch to last 50K miles, if that long. If you mostly drive highway miles, I think 100K is easily doable; I traded my '08 Mustang in at 124K miles with original clutch and brakes.

Although I've been driving manual cars for over 50  years, I still don't feel I've 'mastered' them (like landings in an aircraft). Dump the clutch too quickly and you'll increase longevity--if you don't break anything--at the expense of smoothness, be very delicate and slip it too much and you won't get 'normal' longevity. Actually, IMO Healeys are relatively easier to drive well, a properly set-up clutch with a Healey's torque makes smooth starts easier; my '19 Mustang is high-strung by comparison and I still manage to stall it occasionally.


The release bearing can be problematic as, unlike a true bearing it's a known wear item. I heard a while back there were some low quality parts going around that failed within a few thousand miles. I'd say if it's more than one-third worn--anyone know the original thickness of the graphite?--I'd replace it (again, depending on driving circumstances). 










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