[Healeys] Clutch

m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca
Wed Oct 6 06:03:48 MDT 2021

Simon,  that does not sound bad to me.  It is hard to actually determine how far the clutch pedal depresses (i.e., half way) so it may not be quite in the last ¼ of travel.  If the clutch arm starts to move once you have taken up the slack in the pedal, then I think all is OK.  I assume the cotter pin that secures the pedal arm to the master cylinder pushrod is in good shape – these do wear and I have replaced mine several times.  When they are worn you can have a fair bit of clutch pedal movement before the slack is taken up.  Solution is easy and cheap – replace the cotter pin.


I still have my g’box cover off, so I slipped out and checked mine.  My clutch arm does start to move once I have taken the slack out of the pedal and moves a total of 5/8”, which I measured at the centre cotter pin that goes through the clutch arm.  I estimated that the clutch disengages enough that I can turn the output flange by hand when the clutch is about 5/8 depressed.  Probably not ¾ depressed as you suggest yours is, but that, as I said, is hard to estimate.


Thinking about it (i.e., this is theory not empirical knowledge!) consider that you have a new clutch disk and perhaps you re-faced the flywheel, or may have “roughed it up” with some emery to remove any glazing.  Regardless if you did the latter or not, the two surfaces (clutch disk to flywheel) have not bedded in and so will have to be fully disengaged to turn the flange by hand.  With a bit of use, after bedding in,  they will disengage a little more readily and you may find that you do not have to use so much clutch pedal.  I imagine this will not be a big difference, but just slight.  This is much the same as drum brakes, which, after new shoes have been fitted, should be re-adjusted after a few hundred miles to take up clearance from bedding in.  Of course the clutch (and disk brakes) take up that clearance automatically.  I think that is sound thinking, and I am confident if it isn’t someone will tell me 😊.


Bottom line, if the clutch is disengaging at ¾ depression of the pedal sufficiently that you can turn the flange by hand, AND if the clutch arm begins to move once the slack is taken up in the clutch pedal, I’d say you are OK.


Let us know how it goes.




From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan via Healeys
Sent: October 5, 2021 11:16 AM
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch



I’ve been engaged on other things until recently. However, the clutch continues to be an issue.

We got the gearbox back in OK. Wouldn’t budge until we changed engine’s angle, then it slotted in.

With the aid of an old email of Michaels I have, I think and hope, determined that the clutch itself can work…..


With the car in 4th and drive shaft disconnected I depressed the clutch pedal by hand. With the tunnel cover off I was well able to watch the slave.

I got about ½” to ¾” total movement of the slave cylinder’s push rod at which point – pedal depressed to the floor – the clutch was released ie I could turn the flange that couples to the driveshaft by hand. ½” depression…..no movement of the flange. ie everything in the last ¼”.

That’s got to be hydraulics???

I’ll bleed it again, maybe pushing backwards into master with the slave. But I’m not optimistic as I’ve tried bleeding several times. 

My clutch master cylinder has been in the car since I’ve owned it. +/- 25 years. Am tempted to replace it but hate throwing parts at a problem. Good idea?

Another thing…..I do confess to never having changed the fluid 100%. I always push a load through and out when I have to bleed the brakes but that’s mercifully seldom. 

Any comments….particularly re the 1/2 to 3/4 “ travel???



-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20211006/8e19b64b/attachment.htm>

More information about the Healeys mailing list