[Healeys] Rear brake steady posts
gradea1 at charter.net
gradea1 at charter.net
Wed Mar 31 12:18:48 MDT 2021
My understanding of the "steady" posts are just that...to keep the
shoes even in operation. They are very small and not too strong so
that I doubt they could affect much. However, as the book procedure
describes-"you lock up the shoes so they contact the
drum"-perpendicular to backplate-then move the steady post in until it
"contacts the shoe side"..this should keep the shoe from tilting and
not contacting the drum flat. Looks good on paper.
I think that the shoes will naturally align and the posts are only a
safety measure. The early cars used lots of lube points-oil
everything. The felts have no rub quality, just a receptacle for
holding oil. The worst thing you could do is screw them way down and
cause scraping and drag. Midpoint would do no harm-even if they did
not touch the shoe. Most of the posts I have seen on backplates are
frozen in position anyway. Just my opinion Hank
-----------------------------------------From: "Michael Salter via
Healeys"
To: "Roger Grace"
Cc: "Healeys"
Sent: Wednesday March 31 2021 11:00:06AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment
Obviously the quality of the felt being used is not satisfactory.
I've got a pair of BN1 rear brakes here that still have the felts in
place and are still greasy. I don't believe eliminating metat to metal
is the intent ... just to provide sufficient lubrication to eliminate
squeaks.
M
On Wed., Mar. 31, 2021, 11:47 a.m. Roger Grace via Healeys, wrote:
Bob, Yes agree about the felt bushes. I assume that their only
function is to prevent metal to metal contact ? So do the fibre tubes
protrude slightly beyond the end of the pegs ? Will try to locate
something suitable.
Wonder how you adjust these pegs ? There seems to be 3 different
techniques:
The Moss method with chalk marks on the shoes.
The Salter method by adjusting in/out to each shoe edge then setting
to the mid point.
The usual method - centering the shoes (by stomping on the brakes)
then adjusting the peg to just make contact while shoes are clamped.
I tend to favour the last method .... ?
Tkx rg
On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 9:09 PM Bob Spidell wrote:
One more thing ...
I've never liked the little felt bushes that go on the end of the
shoe standoffs; they deteriorate as soon as they're installed (and are
usually a gooey mess when you replace them). But, I ordered a set from
Tom's Import Toys, but instead Tom sent some fiber tubing cut into
short pieces. These fit perfectly and firmly over the standoffs, and
you can place a little grease on the end and expect it to stay there.
I don't know a source, the tubing looks like it could be small fuel
line, but it's only fiber with no rubber or other lining.
Bob
On 3/30/2021 8:40 PM, Roger Grace wrote:
Bob, Thank you - really appreciated - you are a star ! I have now
removed one side and yes I had the hooks facing out and the plates
reversed as you did the first time.
As you say this is not covered in the manual, and surprised that this
issue ( tricky) is not given much coverage here - compared to say what
oil to use in your OD ! I tried to to get the cylinder out without
removing the hyd. pipe to avoid bleeding but not possible to get the
brake lever dislodged.
I too will save your notes for next time... Tkx rg
On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 7:48 PM Bob Spidell wrote:
Here's a short video of the cylinder moving (complete with 80s
soundtrack and modern 'shaky cam'). Pic shows the bevel on the dust
cover that I think proves this is the correct order of installation.
Here's the sequence of installation that caused me the least
frustration:
1) LIGHTLY grease all moving/sliding parts, including the adjuster
cam and spreaders and the shaft that the handbrake lever pivots on
2) Insert cylinder into its slot
3) Slide the spring plate, with hooks pointed toward the diff, into
the slot on the cylinder from above as manual shows
4) Insert the handbrake lever through its slot on the backplate from
the outside
5) Lift the cylinder a little with a screwdriver and slide the
handbrake pivot shaft into its notches on the cylinder (the spring
plate allows this)
6) Start working the flat retaining plate with the notches into the
slot on the cylinder on top of the spring plate. I tapped it in; it
would help if someone held the handbrake lever out in its actuated
state to prevent the spring plate from retreating from the flat plate
(it might be possible to squeeze them together with a large set of
channellocks). Make sure the little hooks on the spring plate engage
the notches on the flat plate.
7) Work the rubber boot/dust cover over the handbrake lever and
around and under the retaining plates, with the beveled edge sliding
under the plates (see vid).
8) Wipe off any excess grease (it doesn't go well with brake
material)
Credit where due: I'm often (always) disappointed with the quality of
aftermarket rubber products, but the dust covers I got from Moss are
not only molded and cut perfectly, but seem to be made of a tough
rubber that should actually hold up (it's almost a soft plastic).
Bob
ps. This is as much for my benefit, as I seem to have to do this job
every decade or so, and have to start from scratch procedure-wise
every time.
On 3/30/2021 9:52 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
Yes thank you; that sounds like a good explanation. As you say it
is a bear of a job and just working up some stamina to tackle it again
! rg
On Mon, Mar 29, 2021 at 10:38 PM Bob Spidell wrote:
re: "I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is
normal floating ?"
I just spent several hours on my back on a greasy floor working on my
BN2's rear drums. I didn't see any text in the shop manual explaining
installation; most I found was a pic in the Moss catalog showing that
the curved spring, with the 'hooks,' should be installed above the
cylinder (between the cylinder and the handbrake lever). First, I
installed the flat plate against the backing plate with the spring
plate
on top of it. Not only would the cylinder not move freely--which
enables
the self-energizing aspect of the brakes--but the rubber dust boot
had
nothing to hold it in place. I then reversed the installation; i.e.
the
spring plate was still above the cylinder, but under the flat plate
(hooks up). This way the cylinder would slide smoothly and easily,
which
makes sense because there is less contact area, but the rubber boot,
which is beveled on the inner part fit naturally under the flat plate
and would stay in place when vigorously sliding the cylinder
back-and-forth. Contact surfaces were lightly greased.
Short answer: the cylinder should slide smoothly and easily;
otherwise
the self-energizing feature could be defeated, and the cylinder could
be
stuck in the expanded position, which could explain your
non-retracting
problem.
Bob
On 3/29/2021 3:07 PM, Roger Grace via Healeys wrote:
> BJ8 ph2.
> I am Struggling to get consistent results for rear brake shoe
adjustment.
> All part of a project to get handbrake working properly - currently
it
> is almost vertical.
> Background:
> New shoes, slaves and springs etc with less than 4k mi. Almost no
sign
> of any wear yet.
> Handbrake lever clevis pins removed.
> Steady post adjusted so the peg just touches when brakes are
adjusted
> tight.
> Then the adjustment set so you can just hear/feel slight brake
drag.
> All OK so far.
>
> Here is the problem:
> When the handbrake lever is pushed with screwdriver or my hand it
> moves with initial free play then clamps the shoes as it should.
> However when released brakes do not fully retract, and shoes bind
and
> not at the same setting that started off with.
> Same story with using the hydraulics; seems to hang up, in not
quite
> the off position. Both wheels are the same
> Shoes can be "reset" to original setting by rattling the adjuster
> back and forth in the freeplay zone.
> All looks fine when drum is off and you can see the shoe operation.
>
> My thoughts :
> I observe that the new springs actually touch the inside of the
shoes ?
> Maybe some grease there ? Is this interference normal ?
> Is it possible to incorrectly assemble the shoes/springs ?
> See photo of RR.
> I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is
normal
> floating ?
> Maybe I assembled the slave cylinder clips incorrectly ?
>
> All suggestions appreciated
> rg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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