<html><body>My understanding of the "steady" posts are just that...to keep the shoes even in operation. They are very small and not too strong so that I doubt they could affect much. However, as the book procedure describes-"you lock up the shoes so they contact the drum"-perpendicular to backplate-then move the steady post in until it "contacts the shoe side"...this should keep the shoe from tilting and not contacting the drum flat. Looks good on paper. <div><br></div><div>I think that the shoes will naturally align and the posts are only a safety measure. The early cars used lots of lube points-oil everything. The felts have no rub quality, just a receptacle for holding oil. The worst thing you could do is screw them way down and cause scraping and drag. Midpoint would do no harm-even if they did not touch the shoe. Most of the posts I have seen on backplates are frozen in position anyway. Just my opinion Hank<br><br><div class="reply-new-signature"></div><p>-----------------------------------------</p>From: "Michael Salter via Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>To: "Roger Grace"<br>Cc: "Healeys"<br>Sent: Wednesday March 31 2021 11:00:06AM<br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear brake adjustment<br><br>
<div>Obviously the quality of the felt being used is not
satisfactory. I've got a pair of BN1 rear brakes here that
still have the felts in place and are still greasy.
<div>I don't believe eliminating metat to metal is the
intent ... just to provide sufficient lubrication to eliminate
squeaks.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>M</div>
</div>
<br><div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed., Mar. 31, 2021, 11:47
a.m. Roger Grace via Healeys, <<a>healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex;">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>Bob,</div>
<div>Yes agree about the felt bushes. I assume that their only
function is to prevent metal to metal contact ?</div>
<div>So do the fibre tubes protrude slightly beyond the end of the
pegs ?</div>
<div>Will try to locate something suitable.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>Wonder how you adjust these pegs ?</div>
<div>There seems to be 3 different techniques:</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>The Moss method with chalk marks on the shoes.<br></div>
<div><br></div>
<div>The Salter method by adjusting in/out to each shoe edge then
setting to the mid point.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>The usual method - centering the shoes (by
stomping on the brakes) then adjusting the peg to just make contact
while shoes are clamped.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>I tend to favour the last method .... ?<br></div>
<div><br></div>
<div>Tkx</div>
<div>rg<br></div>
<div><br></div>
<div><br></div>
<div><br></div>
<div><br></div>
</div>
<br><div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 9:09 PM
Bob Spidell <<a>bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px .8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">
<div>One more thing ...<br><br>
I've never liked the little felt bushes that go on the end of the
shoe standoffs; they deteriorate as soon as they're installed (and
are usually a gooey mess when you replace them). But, I ordered a
set from Tom's Import Toys, but instead Tom sent some fiber tubing
cut into short pieces. These fit perfectly and firmly over the
standoffs, and you can place a little grease on the end and expect
it to stay there. I don't know a source, the tubing looks like it
could be small fuel line, but it's only fiber with no rubber or
other lining.<br><br>
Bob<br><br><div>On 3/30/2021 8:40 PM, Roger Grace wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote>
<div dir="ltr">
<div>Bob,</div>
<div>Thank you - really appreciated - you are a star !</div>
<div>I have now removed one side and yes I had the hooks facing out
and the plates reversed as you did the first time.<br></div>
<div>As you say this is not covered in the manual, and surprised
that this issue ( tricky) is not given much coverage here -
compared to say what oil to use in your OD !</div>
<div>I tried to to get the cylinder out without removing the hyd.
pipe to avoid bleeding but not possible to get the brake lever
dislodged.<br></div>
<div>I too will save your notes for next time...</div>
<div>Tkx</div>
<div>rg<br></div>
<div><br></div>
<div><br></div>
<div><br></div>
<div><br></div>
</div>
<br><div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Mar 30, 2021 at 7:48 PM
Bob Spidell <<a>bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px .8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">
<div>Here's a short video of the cylinder moving (complete with 80s
soundtrack and modern 'shaky cam'). Pic shows the bevel on the dust
cover that I think proves this is the correct order of
installation.<br><br>
Here's the sequence of installation that caused me the least
frustration:<br><br>
1) LIGHTLY grease all moving/sliding parts, including the adjuster
cam and spreaders and the shaft that the handbrake lever pivots
on<br><br>
2) Insert cylinder into its slot<br><br>
3) Slide the spring plate, with hooks pointed toward the diff, into
the slot on the cylinder from above as manual shows<br><br>
4) Insert the handbrake lever through its slot on the backplate
from the outside<br><br>
5) Lift the cylinder a little with a screwdriver and slide the
handbrake pivot shaft into its notches on the cylinder (the spring
plate allows this)<br><br>
6) Start working the flat retaining plate with the notches into the
slot on the cylinder on top of the spring plate. I tapped it in; it
would help if someone held the handbrake lever out in its actuated
state to prevent the spring plate from retreating from the flat
plate (it might be possible to squeeze them together with a large
set of channellocks). Make sure the little hooks on the spring
plate engage the notches on the flat plate.<br><br>
7) Work the rubber boot/dust cover over the handbrake lever and
around and under the retaining plates, with the beveled edge
sliding under the plates (see vid).<br><br>
8) Wipe off any excess grease (it doesn't go well with brake
material)<br><br>
Credit where due: I'm often (always) disappointed with the quality
of aftermarket rubber products, but the dust covers I got from Moss
are not only molded and cut perfectly, but seem to be made of a
tough rubber that should actually hold up (it's almost a soft
plastic).<br><br>
Bob<br><br>
ps. This is as much for my benefit, as I seem to have to do this
job every decade or so, and have to start from scratch
procedure-wise every time.<br><br><br><div>On 3/30/2021 9:52 AM, Roger Grace wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote>
<div dir="ltr">
<div>Yes thank you; that sounds like a good explanation. As
you say it is a bear of a job and just working up some stamina to
tackle it again !</div>
<div>rg<br></div>
</div>
<br><div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Mar 29, 2021 at 10:38 PM
Bob Spidell <<a>bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px .8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">
re: "I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight
is<br>
normal floating ?"<br><br>
I just spent several hours on my back on a greasy floor working on
my<br>
BN2's rear drums. I didn't see any text in the shop manual
explaining<br>
installation; most I found was a pic in the Moss catalog showing
that<br>
the curved spring, with the 'hooks,' should be installed above
the<br>
cylinder (between the cylinder and the handbrake lever). First,
I<br>
installed the flat plate against the backing plate with the spring
plate<br>
on top of it Not only would the cylinder not move freely--which
enables<br>
the self-energizing aspect of the brakes--but the rubber dust boot
had<br>
nothing to hold it in place. I then reversed the installation; i.e.
the<br>
spring plate was still above the cylinder, but under the flat
plate<br>
(hooks up). This way the cylinder would slide smoothly and easily,
which<br>
makes sense because there is less contact area, but the rubber
boot,<br>
which is beveled on the inner part fit naturally under the flat
plate<br>
and would stay in place when vigorously sliding the cylinder<br>
back-and-forth. Contact surfaces were lightly greased.<br><br>
Short answer: the cylinder should slide smoothly and easily;
otherwise<br>
the self-energizing feature could be defeated, and the cylinder
could be<br>
stuck in the expanded position, which could explain your
non-retracting<br>
problem.<br><br>
Bob<br><br><br>
On 3/29/2021 3:07 PM, Roger Grace via Healeys wrote:<br>
> BJ8 ph2.<br>
> I am Struggling to get consistent results for rear brake shoe
adjustment.<br>
> All part of a project to get handbrake working properly -
currently it<br>
> is almost vertical.<br>
> Background:<br>
> New shoes, slaves and springs etc with less than 4k mi. Almost
no sign<br>
> of any wear yet.<br>
> Handbrake lever clevis pins removed.<br>
> Steady post adjusted so the peg just touches when brakes are
adjusted<br>
> tight<br>
> Then the adjustment set so you can just hear/feel slight brake
drag.<br>
> All OK so far.<br>
><br>
> Here is the problem:<br>
> When the handbrake lever is pushed with screwdriver or my hand
it<br>
> moves with initial free play then clamps the shoes as it
should. <br>
> However when released brakes do not fully retract, and
shoes bind and<br>
> not at the same setting that started off with.<br>
> Same story with using the hydraulics; seems to hang up, in not
quite<br>
> the off position. Both wheels are the same.<br>
> Shoes can be "reset" to original setting by rattling the
adjuster<br>
> back and forth in the freeplay zone.<br>
> All looks fine when drum is off and you can see the shoe
operation.<br>
><br>
> My thoughts :<br>
> I observe that the new springs actually touch the inside of
the shoes ?<br>
> Maybe some grease there ? Is this interference normal ?<br>
> Is it possible to incorrectly assemble the shoes/springs ?<br>
> See photo of RR.<br>
> I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is
normal<br>
> floating ?<br>
> Maybe I assembled the slave cylinder clips incorrectly ?<br>
><br>
> All suggestions appreciated<br>
> rg<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br><br>
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