[Healeys] Rear brake adjustment
Bob Spidell
bspidell at comcast.net
Tue Mar 30 20:48:29 MDT 2021
Here's a short video of the cylinder moving (complete with 80s
soundtrack and modern 'shaky cam'). Pic shows the bevel on the dust
cover that I think proves this is the correct order of installation.
Here's the sequence of installation that caused me the least frustration:
1) LIGHTLY grease all moving/sliding parts, including the adjuster cam
and spreaders and the shaft that the handbrake lever pivots on
2) Insert cylinder into its slot
3) Slide the spring plate, with hooks pointed toward the diff, into the
slot on the cylinder from above as manual shows
4) Insert the handbrake lever through its slot on the backplate from the
outside
5) Lift the cylinder a little with a screwdriver and slide the handbrake
pivot shaft into its notches on the cylinder (the spring plate allows this)
6) Start working the flat retaining plate with the notches into the slot
on the cylinder on top of the spring plate. I tapped it in; it would
help if someone held the handbrake lever out in its actuated state to
prevent the spring plate from retreating from the flat plate (it might
be possible to squeeze them together with a large set of channellocks).
Make sure the little hooks on the spring plate engage the notches on the
flat plate.
7) Work the rubber boot/dust cover over the handbrake lever and around
and under the retaining plates, with the beveled edge sliding under the
plates (see vid).
8) Wipe off any excess grease (it doesn't go well with brake material)
Credit where due: I'm often (always) disappointed with the quality of
aftermarket rubber products, but the dust covers I got from Moss are not
only molded and cut perfectly, but seem to be made of a tough rubber
that should actually hold up (it's almost a soft plastic).
Bob
ps. This is as much for my benefit, as I seem to have to do this job
every decade or so, and have to start from scratch procedure-wise every
time.
On 3/30/2021 9:52 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
> Yes thank you; that sounds like a good explanation. As you say it is
> a bear of a job and just working up some stamina to tackle it again !
> rg
>
> On Mon, Mar 29, 2021 at 10:38 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
> re: "I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is
> normal floating ?"
>
> I just spent several hours on my back on a greasy floor working on my
> BN2's rear drums. I didn't see any text in the shop manual explaining
> installation; most I found was a pic in the Moss catalog showing that
> the curved spring, with the 'hooks,' should be installed above the
> cylinder (between the cylinder and the handbrake lever). First, I
> installed the flat plate against the backing plate with the spring
> plate
> on top of it. Not only would the cylinder not move freely--which
> enables
> the self-energizing aspect of the brakes--but the rubber dust boot
> had
> nothing to hold it in place. I then reversed the installation;
> i.e. the
> spring plate was still above the cylinder, but under the flat plate
> (hooks up). This way the cylinder would slide smoothly and easily,
> which
> makes sense because there is less contact area, but the rubber boot,
> which is beveled on the inner part fit naturally under the flat plate
> and would stay in place when vigorously sliding the cylinder
> back-and-forth. Contact surfaces were lightly greased.
>
> Short answer: the cylinder should slide smoothly and easily;
> otherwise
> the self-energizing feature could be defeated, and the cylinder
> could be
> stuck in the expanded position, which could explain your
> non-retracting
> problem.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 3/29/2021 3:07 PM, Roger Grace via Healeys wrote:
> > BJ8 ph2.
> > I am Struggling to get consistent results for rear brake shoe
> adjustment.
> > All part of a project to get handbrake working properly -
> currently it
> > is almost vertical.
> > Background:
> > New shoes, slaves and springs etc with less than 4k mi. Almost
> no sign
> > of any wear yet.
> > Handbrake lever clevis pins removed.
> > Steady post adjusted so the peg just touches when brakes are
> adjusted
> > tight.
> > Then the adjustment set so you can just hear/feel slight brake drag.
> > All OK so far.
> >
> > Here is the problem:
> > When the handbrake lever is pushed with screwdriver or my hand it
> > moves with initial free play then clamps the shoes as it should.
> > However when released brakes do not fully retract, and shoes
> bind and
> > not at the same setting that started off with.
> > Same story with using the hydraulics; seems to hang up, in not
> quite
> > the off position. Both wheels are the same.
> > Shoes can be "reset" to original setting by rattling the adjuster
> > back and forth in the freeplay zone.
> > All looks fine when drum is off and you can see the shoe operation.
> >
> > My thoughts :
> > I observe that the new springs actually touch the inside of the
> shoes ?
> > Maybe some grease there ? Is this interference normal ?
> > Is it possible to incorrectly assemble the shoes/springs ?
> > See photo of RR.
> > I note that the slave is tight on the back plate. How tight is
> normal
> > floating ?
> > Maybe I assembled the slave cylinder clips incorrectly ?
> >
> > All suggestions appreciated
> > rg
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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