[Healeys] Overheating

Sat Mar 6 22:48:28 MST 2021

Pump is the Australian Davies, Craig. Purchased it from Summit in 2018 and
have had it installed for over 2 years now. Paid $188 at the time. Bought
the basic EWP 80 and none of their controllers that they push. No need for
a fancy controller IMO if you are retaining the existing mechanical one and
only using it for traffic duty.  I have a relay and a switch under the dash
that controls the EWP and an electric fan as well. If the engine is really
hot I leave the pump on for a minute or so after shutting down. See link to
the pump manufacturer. Also photo of it installed - not too easy to
distinguish - it is circular and black below the steering column.

https://daviescraig.com/electric-water-pumps

On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 7:34 PM <sentenac.rw at gmail.com> wrote:

> Roger, I would be very interested in photos and pump details of the
> electric water pump you installed.
>
> -Roland
>
> On Sat, 6 Mar 2021 17:25:24 -0800, you wrote:
>
> > I concur that at low RPM the flow rate is significantly reduced - as it
> >should be with this type of pump - flow is proportional to speed.  On my
> >BJ8 I measure oil temp and top rad. hose temp plus some other temps.
> Single
> >gauge with switches
> >So, I added an electric water pump (EWP) that I manually switch on when
> >approaching traffic. I use the same switch to switch on an electric fan.
> My
> >experience is that the EWP is by far better than just an electric fan -
> you
> >need to move the water through the rad. Very noticeable to prevent heat
> >soak too when you shut down the engine and you can see the temp dropping.
> >The EWP goes in the bottom hose and is quite inconspicuous. Took about 3
> >hrs to install. In series with the mechanical pump and literature says
> >little resistance when off  eg when cruising and RPM higher and EWP not
> >required.
> >Can post photo if anyone is interested plus pump details.
> >rg
> >
> >
> >On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 4:59 PM Bob Spidell via Healeys <
> >healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> >
> >> Anyone tried a smaller diameter pulley on the pump?
> >>
> >>
> >> On 3/6/2021 4:49 PM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:
> >>
> >> Using an original type stat helps too ie the one with a sleeve. Helps,
> not
> >> cures all.
> >>
> >> Simon
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
> >> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *warthodson--- via
> Healeys
> >> *Sent:* 06 March 2021 23:41
> >> *To:* rfbegani at gmail.com; michaelsalter at gmail.com; bspidell at comcast.net
> ;
> >> healeys at autox.team.net
> >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overheating
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> It seems to me that switching from a 7 PSI radiator cap to a 15PSI cap
> is
> >> not a solution to an overheating problem but rather a band-aid.
> >> Gary Hodson
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: rfbegani at gmail.com
> >> To: 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; 'Bob Spidell' <
> >> bspidell at comcast.net>; 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> >> Sent: Sat, Mar 6, 2021 3:58 pm
> >> Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
> >>
> >> Bob & Mike:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> You both may have seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the
> >> response from the group.  As a result, I purchased an infrared
> thermometer
> >> to determine if my water gauge was giving accurate readings.  The
> >> thermometer gun told me that my water gauge was 30 degrees higher than
> the
> >> temperature of the sensor attached to the block.  At the same time, I
> >> noticed my gauge will show 120 degrees at rest instead of going down to
> 90
> >> degrees which would indicate a 30-degree high reading.  In May when I
> leave
> >> for cool Michigan, I will send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> I began to test the temperature of the water going through the cooling
> >> system at the inlet to and outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to
> the
> >> radiator and the upper and lower hoses while the engine is running at
> idle
> >> and at 2-3 Thousand rpm.  The chart I created to record these
> temperatures
> >> allowed me to produce observations or averages because the flow of the
> >> water is dependent upon the rpms of the engine.  The engine has
> overheated
> >> all of the 40 years I have owned it and has only 1000 miles on the new
> >> speedo since rebuilding to 20 over.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> At the radiator inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan
> >> operating.
> >>
> >>                         inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric
> fan
> >> operating.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> The above temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the
> hoses.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> These temperatures indicate the pump is circulating water with
> sufficient
> >> gallons to cool the engine only when the engine is at high rpms.  At
> idle
> >> the pump does not circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool.
> This
> >> is especially true when you have been operating the engine at high speed
> >> and come down to 30 – 40 mph and stop and go traffic.  Maybe the real
> >> answer is to install an electric pump for constant cooling water?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> In the past week, I have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank
> >> and a new 7 psi 1 inch radiator cap because I learned that our radiators
> >> have a long neck.  Both those changes have reduced my problem of very
> high
> >> overheating and resulting boiling over.  In addition, when my water
> gauge
> >> shows 212 degrees the water temperature is actually 30 degrees less or
> >> approximately 185 degrees.  Also, I am not boiling over and loosing
> >> coolant.  Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is still spiking to
> >> 210 plus degrees true when coming off highway speeds.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> In my review of various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and
> others
> >> are recommending increasing the pressure in the classic car systems to
> 15
> >> psi plus, and coolant recovery tanks “if your coolant system, radiator,
> >> hoses etc. is new” and therefore can hold the pressure.  Unfortunately,
> I
> >> have not found any maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch diameter radiator
> >> cap except our 7 psi cap so I can try such a pressurized system.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Another suggestion on an older discussion at the British Car Forum
> >> indicated some of the Ontario car owners had switched to Evans Waterless
> >> Coolant rather than 50/50 coolant water mixture.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> I still have no idea why a minority of our group has overheating
> >> problems.  More ideas?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Regards,
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Bob Begani 67 BJ8
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
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> >>
>
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