[Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle
Bob Spidell
bspidell at comcast.net
Wed Jan 6 10:05:09 MST 2021
re: "The whole front end is sat on those two Oilite bronze thrust washers."
Nope. Proof: I have placed my cars on jackstands under the rear springs
and front trunnions and R&R'd their shock absorbers several times
(Armstrong shocks are a PITA, but that's a different rant). Risky?
Maybe, but done right the risk is manageable. My BJ8 rode through a
Richter 5+ earthquake in this state in San Jose a few years ago;
obviously, a flat, rugged concrete surface is required (note messing
with massive springs under compression has risks as well). My BN2 is now
in this state while I wait for front shock rebuilds (though I have the
jackstands backed-up by a QuickJack under the chassis).
Though there is a very specific gap called-for for the top trunnion, the
only reason I can see is too small a gap might cause some
binding--leading to even more steering effort--and too large could
result in the shock and bushing/bearing taking a beating.
On 1/6/2021 7:39 AM, bluehealey at gmail.com wrote:
>
> Hi Fred.
>
> You are not the first person that I have encountered with this
> confusion. It is usually held by those that are very familiar with
> pre-war cars and beam axles. In those cars the steering/stub axle is
> captured between fixed top & bottom ‘ears’ on the end of the beam.
> The weight of the car bears down through the top ear onto the swivel
> axle. All fairly obvious.
>
> In the case of our cars, with top and bottom wishbones, the weight of
> the car is carried on the spring and bottom wishbone. The wheel and
> stub axle is bearing upwards, LIFTING the car through the top trunnion
> using the kingpin as a pull-rod to the bottom wishbone and spring.
>
> The whole front end is sat on those two Oilite bronze thrust washers.
> Any reduction in friction here pays dividends – especially in a
> 6-cylinder car with even more weight over the wheels.
>
> Maybe others can come up with a clearer explanation.
>
> Cheers.
>
> AlanB
>
> *From:*Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* 06 January 2021 15:14
> *To:* Bluehealey <bluehealey at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Team.net <lawrence.swift at gmail.com>; Ahealey help
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle
>
> Listers,
>
> I have looked at these top trunnion bearing kits over the years and
> considered installing them. However, I simply cannot get my head
> wrapped around why replacing bearings at the top of the kingpin would
> reduce the weight of the car and improve steering. It seems to me
> that all the weight of the car is pressed against the bottom of the
> kingpin. To me, it seems replacing the top bearing would have no
> effect on the steering effort. Can someone explain in simple language
> why this kit would work?
>
> Thanks, mystified,
>
> Fred
>
> 66 BJ8
>
> On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 9:49 AM Bluehealey <bluehealey at gmail.com
> <mailto:bluehealey at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> These are the ones.
>
> https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx
> <https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx>
>
> Well worth doing.
>
> The other often overlooked source of heavy steering is the
> Steering Idler. It is rarely lubricated, has no real reservoir for
> oil, and a poor seal at the bottom. I suggest releasing the ball
> joints that connect to the drop arm to check it for stiffness.
> Complete removal of the idler isn’t a difficult job and is the
> best way to clean and lubricate.
>
> The caster is pretty good on these cars (the initial design was
> good). Camber could go from positive to negative to be more
> compatible with radial tyres. Also check and minimise toe-in. This
> has a radical impact on steering feel when wrong (in either
> direction).
>
> If after all that you still have problems, then go for the caster
> changes you have in mind and tell us about your findings. The Team
> may learn something.
>
> The only other aspect that seems to vary from car to car is bump
> steer. Some can be horrible on fast bumpies and others are on
> rails. I’ve never seen a decent treatise on dealing with this on
> our Big Healeys.
> Have fun.
>
> Alan - from my iPad
>
>
>
> On 6 Jan 2021, at 13:35, Team.net <lawrence.swift at gmail.com
> <mailto:lawrence.swift at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> When I rebuilt the front end on my BT7, I had the trust
> bearings at the top of the kingpin replaced with bearings -
> made a huge difference in the ease of steering.
>
>
> On Jan 5, 2021, at 10:36 AM, Bob Spidell
> <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
> re: "The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous to
> play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the parts"
>
> How so?
>
> On 1/4/2021 9:40 PM, gradea1 at charter.net
> <mailto:gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:
>
> I'm with the philosophy "set the toe and let 'er blow"
> The 1/16-1/8" toe-in is most important for proper tire
> wear. The other two are factory fixed and too
> dangerous to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin
> makes the parts. Hank
>
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