[Healeys] wheel

Harold Manifold manifold at telus.net
Sun Jan 3 11:46:56 MST 2021


Michael,
 
It is hard to tell from your picture if the hole is the same size. As I am
sure you already know the timing cover has 7 x 2K7440 for a 5/16" bolt and 5
x 2K5197 for a 1/4" bolt. The sump has 25 x 2K5197. It could be the 2K5197's
were drilled out to 5/16" to replace missing 2K7440's either at the factory
or by a previous engine builder.
 
Harold

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael
Salter
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2021 10:30 AM
To: Tom Mitchell
Cc: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel


Staggered bullets, degreased and wrapped tightly in 1 or 2 layers of masking
tape will easily slide down a clean stator tube from the top. 
M

On Sun., Jan. 3, 2021, 1:09 p.m. Tom Mitchell, <drtommitch at gmail.com> wrote:


One point (btw I agree with cutting and replacing the bullet ends is easy
and safer) is that if you try to force the connectors you stand the risk of
expanding the tube.  
I didn't this by attaching a wire and pulling the wires through. I didn't
notice the damage until later. The results is a sloppy trafficator.
Course another set of eyes and hands don't hurt

Tom

Dr. Tom Mitchell 

On Sun, Jan 3, 2021, 12:37 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:


"Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back
through the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub."

----------------------------------------------------------
I was prepared for a real struggle and since I did not like the condition of
the electrical connectors I decided to cut them off and use new ones once I
pulled the wires down through the stator tube.
This made everything easy and to anyone who has difficulty in pulling the
wires with connectors in place please consider cutting them off and renewing
them as I did.


Best--Michael Oritt



On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:10 AM Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
wrote:


If you do pull the harness out of the stator, I use a rubber stopper to plug
the orifice in the box to keep the lube in the box.  When I'm ready to run
the harness back down the stator, I run a fish tape up from the box, tie on
the leads, appropriately staggered to allow for clearance through the
stator, and pull them through.  It's messy.  Unless you REALLY need to
remove the wheel, just work around it.  

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard
Kahn
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2021 6:31 PM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel

 

Attach a string or wire to the wires you pull through the stator tube. You
can stagger the wires to aid in sliding them back through. If possible, you
may be able to just pull the wheel to the side, leaving it connected after
you get the trafficator off.

I would not mess with the steering box if you don't have to. I have just
"unwired" the trafficator and pull the wheel off.  Just be sure you note
which wire connects where they came from. I've done this a few times.

 

Rich

  _____  

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell
<bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2021 5:27 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheel 

 

The wheel is a piece of cake (single large snap ring). The trafficator,
which has to be removed first, is a real PITA. The usual 'technique' is to
disconnect the trafficator harness at the front of the car,and pull the
movable part out. But, it's possible, if you have enough slack in the
harness, to pull the top part of the stator tube out and disconnect the
wiring at the hub (take lots of photos). All things considered, I think Plan
A is the least hassle; drain the steering box first (you'll lose most of the
fluid anyway when you loosen the olive). Plan B involves messing with a lot
of small, non-standard screws, which have a tendency to evaporate.

Possibly the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back through
the lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub.

Bob

On 1/2/2021 2:55 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote:

How much trouble is it to remove the steering wheel on a BJ8?  And how much
trouble to put it back?  I just want it out of the way temporarily.  

Mike

 

 

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