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<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=969054018-03012021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>Michael,</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=969054018-03012021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=969054018-03012021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>It is hard to tell from your picture if the hole is the same
size. As I am sure you already know the timing cover has 7 x 2K7440 for a
5/16" bolt and 5 x 2K5197 for a 1/4" bolt. The sump has 25 x 2K5197. It could be
the 2K5197's were drilled out to 5/16" to replace missing 2K7440's either at the
factory or by a previous engine builder.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=969054018-03012021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=969054018-03012021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>Harold</FONT></SPAN></DIV><BR>
<DIV lang=en-us class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left>
<HR tabIndex=-1>
<FONT size=2 face=Tahoma><B>From:</B> Healeys
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] <B>On Behalf Of </B>Michael
Salter<BR><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, January 03, 2021 10:30 AM<BR><B>To:</B> Tom
Mitchell<BR><B>Cc:</B> Austin Healey<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Healeys]
wheel<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>Staggered bullets, degreased and wrapped tightly in 1 or 2 layers of
masking tape will easily slide down a clean stator tube from the top.
<DIV>M</DIV></DIV><BR>
<DIV class=gmail_quote>
<DIV class=gmail_attr dir=ltr>On Sun., Jan. 3, 2021, 1:09 p.m. Tom Mitchell,
<<A href="mailto:drtommitch@gmail.com">drtommitch@gmail.com</A>>
wrote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=gmail_quote
style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">
<DIV>One point (btw I agree with cutting and replacing the bullet ends is easy
and safer) is that if you try to force the connectors you stand the risk of
expanding the tube.
<DIV>I didn't this by attaching a wire and pulling the wires through. I didn't
notice the damage until later. The results is a sloppy trafficator.</DIV>
<DIV>Course another set of eyes and hands don't hurt<BR><BR>Tom</DIV>
<DIV><BR>
<DIV data-smartmail="gmail_signature">Dr. Tom Mitchell </DIV></DIV></DIV><BR>
<DIV class=gmail_quote>
<DIV class=gmail_attr dir=ltr>On Sun, Jan 3, 2021, 12:37 PM Michael Oritt
<<A href="mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com" rel=noreferrer
target=_blank>michael.oritt@gmail.com</A>> wrote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=gmail_quote
style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">
<DIV dir=ltr>
<DIV class=gmail_default style="COLOR: #3333ff"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman",serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)'>"Possibly
the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back through the
lower portion of the stator tube to replace the wheel/hub."</SPAN><BR></DIV>
<DIV class=gmail_default style="COLOR: #3333ff"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman",serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)'>----------------------------------------------------------</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=gmail_default style="COLOR: #3333ff"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman",serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)'>I
was prepared for a real struggle and since I did not like the condition of
the electrical connectors I decided to cut them off and use new
ones once I pulled the wires down through the stator tube.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=gmail_default style="COLOR: #3333ff"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman",serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)'>This
made everything easy and to anyone who has difficulty in pulling the wires
with connectors in place please consider cutting them off and renewing them
as I did.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=gmail_default style="COLOR: #3333ff"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman",serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)'><BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=gmail_default style="COLOR: #3333ff"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman",serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)'>Best--Michael
Oritt</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=gmail_default style="COLOR: #3333ff"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman",serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)'><BR></SPAN></DIV></DIV><BR>
<DIV class=gmail_quote>
<DIV class=gmail_attr dir=ltr>On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 12:10 AM Bruce Steele
<<A href="mailto:healeybruce@roadrunner.com" rel="noreferrer noreferrer"
target=_blank>healeybruce@roadrunner.com</A>> wrote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=gmail_quote
style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">
<DIV lang=EN-US>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style='FONT-FAMILY: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif'>If
you do pull the harness out of the stator, I use a rubber stopper to plug
the orifice in the box to keep the lube in the box. When I’m ready
to run the harness back down the stator, I run a fish tape up from the
box, tie on the leads, appropriately staggered to allow for clearance
through the stator, and pull them through. It’s messy. Unless
you REALLY need to remove the wheel, just work around it.
<U></U><U></U></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-FAMILY: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif'><U></U><U></U></SPAN> </P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-FAMILY: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif'>Bruce
Steele<U></U><U></U></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-FAMILY: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif'>Brea,
CA<U></U><U></U></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-FAMILY: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif'>1960
BN7<U></U><U></U></SPAN></P></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-FAMILY: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif'><U></U><U></U></SPAN> </P>
<DIV>
<DIV
style="BORDER-TOP: rgb(225,225,225) 1pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-TOP: 3pt; PADDING-LEFT: 0in; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in">
<P class=MsoNormal><B><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif">From:</SPAN></B><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif"> Healeys
[mailto:<A href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"
rel="noreferrer noreferrer"
target=_blank>healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</A>] <B>On Behalf Of
</B>Richard Kahn<BR><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, January 02, 2021 6:31
PM<BR><B>To:</B> Bob Spidell <<A href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"
rel="noreferrer noreferrer" target=_blank>bspidell@comcast.net</A>>; <A
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" rel="noreferrer noreferrer"
target=_blank>healeys@autox.team.net</A><BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Healeys]
wheel<U></U><U></U></SPAN></P></DIV></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><U></U><U></U> </P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; COLOR: black">Attach a string or
wire to the wires you pull through the stator tube. You can stagger the
wires to aid in sliding them back through. If possible, you may be able to
just pull the wheel to the side, leaving it connected after you get the
trafficator off.<U></U><U></U></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; COLOR: black">I would not mess
with the steering box if you don't have to. I have just "unwired" the
trafficator and pull the wheel off. Just be sure you note which wire
connects where they came from. I've done this a few
times.<U></U><U></U></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; COLOR: black"><U></U><U></U></SPAN> </P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; COLOR: black">Rich<U></U><U></U></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV class=MsoNormal style="TEXT-ALIGN: center" align=center>
<HR align=center SIZE=2 width="98%">
</DIV>
<DIV
id=m_6678656878099626437m_7752059856981993471gmail-m_-3332687527899881672divRplyFwdMsg>
<P class=MsoNormal><B><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; COLOR: black">From:</SPAN></B><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; COLOR: black">
Healeys <<A href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"
rel="noreferrer noreferrer"
target=_blank>healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</A>> on behalf of Bob
Spidell <<A href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"
rel="noreferrer noreferrer"
target=_blank>bspidell@comcast.net</A>><BR><B>Sent:</B> Saturday,
January 2, 2021 5:27 PM<BR><B>To:</B> <A
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" rel="noreferrer noreferrer"
target=_blank>healeys@autox.team.net</A> <<A
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" rel="noreferrer noreferrer"
target=_blank>healeys@autox.team.net</A>><BR><B>Subject:</B> Re:
[Healeys] wheel</SPAN> <U></U><U></U></P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><U></U><U></U> </P></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 12pt">The wheel is a piece of
cake (single large snap ring). The trafficator, which has to be removed
first, is a real PITA. The usual 'technique' is to disconnect the
trafficator harness at the front of the car,and pull the movable part out.
But, it's possible, if you have enough slack in the harness, to pull the
top part of the stator tube out and disconnect the wiring at the hub (take
lots of photos). All things considered, I think Plan A is the least
hassle; drain the steering box first (you'll lose most of the fluid anyway
when you loosen the olive). Plan B involves messing with a lot of small,
non-standard screws, which have a tendency to evaporate.<BR><BR>Possibly
the hardest part (Plan A) is feeding the harness wires back through the
lower portion of the stator tube to replace the
wheel/hub.<BR><BR>Bob<U></U><U></U></P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal>On 1/2/2021 2:55 PM, Mike Sinclair
wrote:<U></U><U></U></P></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 5pt; MARGIN-TOP: 5pt">
<P><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma,sans-serif">How much trouble is it
to remove the steering wheel on a BJ8? And how much trouble to put
it back? I just want it out of the way temporarily.
</SPAN><U></U><U></U></P>
<P><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma,sans-serif">Mike</SPAN><U></U><U></U></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><U></U><U></U> </P></BLOCKQUOTE>
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