[Healeys] Renewing the clutch

[Harold Manifold]

Paul,
 
If you do get the flywheel resurfaced which is a good suggestion. Mark the
orientation of the flywheel before removing to have minimal affect on the
engine balance.
 
Harold

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Spidell
Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2021 12:03 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Renewing the clutch


Also too, consider replacing the pilot bushing, the release 'bearing' and
the front seal on the gearbox while you're at it. Check side play on the
release bearing fork; you probably won't need to do anything, but it's a bit
of a job to put new bushings in.


On 2/6/2021 11:33 AM, Michael Salter wrote:


Hi Paul,
Not really worth the bother ... once you have all that stuff
disconnected.removed it really is little more work to lift the gearbox out
entirely. 

A word of caution. 

After encountering clutch shudder more than once after installing a new
clutch I would strongly recommend getting the flywheel resurfaced. It is an
inexpensive job to have done at a competent auto machine shop and is a lot
less work than pulling everything out again.


M


On Sat, Feb 6, 2021 at 2:26 PM Paul Leeks <paulleeks909 at gmail.com> wrote:


Hi chaps

The clutch on my 100/6 BN4 is starting to slip a bit. So, I am thinking of
replacing it.

The question is ... is it possible/practical to change it in situ (without
removing the gearbox and the engine from the car)?

ie: lift off transmission tunnel, undo and drop propshaft, disconnect
gearbox from engine (no overdrive) and move it backwards on a jack, change
clutch and put it all back together?

As always, any advice very gratefully received.

Many thanks

Paul Leeks
100/6 BN4
Lancashire, UK



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