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<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=193360821-06022021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>Paul,</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=193360821-06022021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=193360821-06022021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>If you do get the flywheel resurfaced which is a good
suggestion. Mark the orientation of the flywheel before
removing to have minimal affect on the engine balance.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=193360821-06022021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=193360821-06022021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>Harold</FONT></SPAN></DIV><BR>
<DIV lang=en-us class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left>
<HR tabIndex=-1>
<FONT size=2 face=Tahoma><B>From:</B> Healeys
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] <B>On Behalf Of </B>Bob
Spidell<BR><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, February 06, 2021 12:03 PM<BR><B>To:</B>
healeys@autox.team.net<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Healeys] Renewing the
clutch<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Also too, consider replacing the pilot bushing, the release 'bearing'
and the front seal on the gearbox while you're at it. Check side play on the
release bearing fork; you probably won't need to do anything, but it's a bit of
a job to put new bushings in.<BR><BR>
<DIV class=moz-cite-prefix>On 2/6/2021 11:33 AM, Michael Salter wrote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
cite=mid:CAB3i7LJSXri+C3+F1wSZkzamr7E2sOzmeX+G35vfSCkunqgPng@mail.gmail.com
type="cite">
<DIV dir=ltr>
<DIV class=gmail_default style="FONT-SIZE: small"><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: arial,sans-serif">Hi Paul,</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=gmail_default style="FONT-SIZE: small"><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: arial,sans-serif">Not really worth the bother ... once you
have all that stuff disconnected.removed it really is little more work to lift
the gearbox out entirely. <BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=gmail_default style="FONT-SIZE: small"><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: arial,sans-serif">A word of caution. <BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=gmail_default style="FONT-SIZE: small"><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: arial,sans-serif">After encountering clutch shudder more
than once after installing a new clutch I would strongly recommend getting the
flywheel resurfaced. It is an inexpensive job to have done at a competent auto
machine shop and is a lot less work than pulling everything out
again.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=gmail_default style="FONT-SIZE: small"><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: arial,sans-serif"><BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=gmail_default
style="FONT-SIZE: small; FONT-FAMILY: comic sans
ms,sans-serif"><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: arial,sans-serif">M</SPAN><BR></DIV></DIV><BR>
<DIV class=gmail_quote>
<DIV class=gmail_attr dir=ltr>On Sat, Feb 6, 2021 at 2:26 PM Paul Leeks <<A
href="mailto:paulleeks909@gmail.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">paulleeks909@gmail.com</A>> wrote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=gmail_quote
style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">
<DIV dir=ltr>Hi chaps<BR><BR>The clutch on my 100/6 BN4 is starting to slip
a bit. So, I am thinking of replacing it.<BR><BR>The question is ... is it
possible/practical to change it in situ (without removing the gearbox and
the engine from the car)?<BR><BR>ie: lift off transmission tunnel, undo and
drop propshaft, disconnect gearbox from engine (no overdrive) and move it
backwards on a jack, change clutch and put it all back together?<BR><BR>As
always, any advice very gratefully received.<BR><BR>Many thanks<BR><BR>Paul
Leeks<BR>100/6 BN4<BR>Lancashire,
UK</DIV><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE><BR></BODY></HTML>