[Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem

[WILLIAM B LAWRENCE]

The problem with the double leading edge brakes on the 100s and 100-6s is that the bleeder screw is at a low point in the system so it takes a little extra effort expel any entrained air. You probably got a pretty good slug when you changed the wheel cylinder. Probably keep bleeding that wheel and use various techniques until you find the one that actually moves the air out of the bleeder.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2021 3:04 AM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem

Listers,

I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up the
wall. Here's what I've done:

- new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels
- one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2
front wheels)
- new master cylinder

I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just pressure bled
as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a couple
times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a period of
time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight
pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only be
the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it and
bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of Castrol's
finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum bleeding and
old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods. I'm
not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a bit
with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor after
some time.

Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed.

TIA,
Bob
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