[Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
Bob Spidell
bspidell at comcast.net
Mon Sep 7 21:57:29 MDT 2020
Why wouldn't you use a split olive? They seem to seal OK, and most leaks
come from the front or top cover, or the rocker shaft seal.
On 9/7/2020 8:37 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
> Bill--
>
> It is identical to the one that was on the car prior to my beginning
> the project. it cam off with some difficulty.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 11:03 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com
> <mailto:ynotink at msn.com>> wrote:
>
> Careful of the solid “olive”. Sounds like a tubing ferrule to me.
> If you put enough force on it to set it you might not be able to
> remove it.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Michael
> Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net
> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> *Sent:* Monday, September 7, 2020 5:58 PM
> *To:* John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com
> <mailto:ah100register at gmail.com>>
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
>
> * I got everything together this morning.
> *
>
> * I was under the mistaken impression that the three flathead
> screws shown in the earlier photo should stay in place and
> that three additional screws should pass through the plate on
> the end of the stator tube and somehow thread into the holes
> in the copper ring. (Those holes and the three smaller holes
> on the plate were apparently designed to slip over locator
> pins which were present on some units, though not mine.). In
> any case after a lot of good and patient advice from folks
> over on this list and the AH Experience site I finally saw the
> error of my ways, removed the three screws and passed them
> through the countersunk holes on the plate and into the
> trafficator.
> *
>
> * Despite varying opinions as to whether or not the olive should
> be split to allow for installation I was able to get the solid
> one sent to me by David Nock started onto the stator tube and
> by using the nut I drove it home. I'll finish lubing and
> wiring tomorrow hopefully.
> *
>
> * This is one of those jobs that we will probably do only once
> if at all during our ownership but in case there is a "next
> time" for me I am now ready and what took me hours will
> probably take minutes.
> *
>
> * Thanks all for your patience--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 9:45 AM John Harper via Healeys
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
> Curt
>
> So that everybody is aware Lucas used as a general view odd
> sizes of BA as well as 5BA as you correctly said.
>
> Best regards
>
> On Mon, 7 Sep 2020 at 14:39, Curtis Arndt via Healeys
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> First, I fat fingered my response, the screws are no. 5
> BA. See attached.
>
> Second, there should be absolutely no need for alignment
> pins.
>
> Just use the correct three countersunk holes in the stator
> tube, get one started, center the switch on the plate, and
> the rest will follow.
>
> -Curt
>
> On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 5:58 AM <warthodson at aol.com
> <mailto:warthodson at aol.com>> wrote:
>
> I have re-read your description of the problem & if I
> understand your issue I have 2 suggestions.
> Would it be possible to use some temporary, low tack
> glue (such as common glue stick) to adhere the thin
> copper or brass piece in place while you are
> assembling the assembly?
> Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA counter sunk
> screw & 2 longer, thinner, non-threaded, temporary
> "pins" to assist in alignment? The "pins" would be
> removed after you get one #4BA screw started enough
> that it would stay in place.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
>
>
> On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via
> Healeys wrote:
> >
> > I sent my trafficator/horn assembly
> off to Curt Arndt for
> > refurbishing and got it back in
> great condition. However I am
> > having difficulty in reinstalling it:
> >
> > 1. I have fed the wires down the
> stator tube and am ready to
> > attach the trafficator assembly
> which is done via three #4BA flat
> > head machine screws that go through
> the countersunk holes in the
> > stator tube end plate and pick up
> the thin copper or brass piece
> > which resembles a spring washer.
> Because of the piece's thinness
> > there is really only one thread of
> engagement and whenever I
> > attempt to push the head/tube home
> into its final position I
> > invariably dislodge one of the
> screws from the head. Am I doing
> > something wrong here or am I simply
> being ham-handed?
> >
> > 2. Is there a trick to getting the
> olive over the end of the
> > stator tube as I cannot get it
> started and before I start exerting
> > force I thought I would enquire
> whether it needs to be heated,
> > etc. Getting the old one off was not
> easy and i would up having to
> > cut it with a dremel tool. It is
> possible that I have slightly
> > buggered the end of the stator tube
> and wonder if perhaps I need
> > to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
> >
> > Any help will be
> appreciated--weather is beginning to cool
> off and
> > I would like to get the car back on
> the road.
> >
> >
> > Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
> >
> >
>
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