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Why wouldn't you use a split olive? They seem to seal OK, and most
leaks come from the front or top cover, or the rocker shaft seal.<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/7/2020 8:37 PM, Michael Oritt via
Healeys wrote:<br>
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<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Bill--</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
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<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">It is identical
to the one that was on the car prior to my beginning the
project. it cam off with some difficulty.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Best--Michael
Oritt</div>
</div>
<br>
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 11:03
PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <<a href="mailto:ynotink@msn.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">ynotink@msn.com</a>> wrote:<br>
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<div>
<div>Careful of the solid “olive”. Sounds like a tubing
ferrule to me. If you put enough force on it to set it you
might not be able to remove it.</div>
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<div id="gmail-m_-2780412725893549148divRplyFwdMsg"
dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt" face="Calibri,
sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys <<a
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>>
on behalf of Michael Oritt via Healeys <<a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, September 7, 2020 5:58 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> John Harper <<a
href="mailto:ah100register@gmail.com" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">ah100register@gmail.com</a>><br>
<b>Cc:</b> <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a>
<<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation
issues</font>
<div> </div>
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<div style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">
<ul>
<li><span
style="color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px">I
got everything together this morning. </span></li>
<li><span
style="color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><br>
</span></li>
<li><span
style="color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px">I
was under the mistaken impression that the three
flathead screws shown in the earlier photo
should stay in place and that three additional
screws should pass through the plate on the end
of the stator tube and somehow thread into the
holes in the copper ring. (Those holes and the
three smaller holes on the plate were apparently
designed to slip over locator pins which were
present on some units, though not mine.). In
any case after a lot of good and patient advice
from folks over on this list and the AH
Experience site I finally saw the error of my
ways, removed the three screws and passed them
through the countersunk holes on the plate and
into the trafficator. </span></li>
<li><br
style="color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px">
</li>
<li><span
style="color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px">Despite
varying opinions as to whether or not the olive
should be split to allow for installation I was
able to get the solid one sent to me by David
Nock started onto the stator tube and by using
the nut I drove it home. I'll finish lubing and
wiring tomorrow hopefully. </span></li>
<li><span
style="color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><br>
</span></li>
<li><span
style="color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px">This
is one of those jobs that we will probably do
only once if at all during our ownership but in
case there is a "next time" for me I am now
ready and what took me hours will probably take
minutes.</span></li>
<li><span
style="color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><br>
</span></li>
<li><span
style="color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px">Thanks
all for your patience--Michael Oritt</span></li>
</ul>
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<br>
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<div dir="ltr">On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 9:45 AM John
Harper via Healeys <<a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Curt
<div><br>
</div>
<div>So that everybody is aware Lucas used as a
general view odd sizes of BA as well as 5BA as you
correctly said.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Best regards</div>
</div>
<br>
<div>
<div dir="ltr">On Mon, 7 Sep 2020 at 14:39, Curtis
Arndt via Healeys <<a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Gentlemen,
<div><br>
</div>
<div>First, I fat fingered my response, the
screws are no. 5 BA. See attached.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Second, there should be absolutely no
need for alignment pins. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Just use the correct three
countersunk holes in the stator tube, get
one started, center the switch on the plate,
and the rest will follow.</div>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>-Curt</div>
</div>
<br>
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<div dir="ltr">On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 5:58 AM
<<a href="mailto:warthodson@aol.com"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">warthodson@aol.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
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<div style="color:black;font:12pt "Comic
Sans MS",sans-serif">I have re-read
your description of the problem & if I
understand your issue I have 2 suggestions.
<div>Would it be possible to use some
temporary, low tack glue (such as common
glue stick) to adhere the thin copper or
brass piece in place while you are
assembling the assembly?</div>
<div>Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA
counter sunk screw & 2 longer,
thinner, non-threaded, temporary "pins" to
assist in alignment? The "pins" would be
removed after you get one #4BA screw
started enough that it would stay in
place.</div>
<div>Gary Hodson <br>
<br>
<br>
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<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
On 9/6/20 3:35 PM,
Michael Oritt via
Healeys wrote:<br
clear="none">
><br clear="none">
> I sent my
trafficator/horn
assembly off to Curt
Arndt for<br
clear="none">
> refurbishing
and got it back in
great condition.
However I am<br
clear="none">
> having
difficulty in
reinstalling it:<br
clear="none">
><br clear="none">
> 1. I have fed
the wires down the
stator tube and am
ready to<br
clear="none">
> attach the
trafficator assembly
which is done via
three #4BA flat<br
clear="none">
> head machine
screws that go through
the countersunk holes
in the<br clear="none">
> stator tube
end plate and pick up
the thin copper or
brass piece<br
clear="none">
> which
resembles a spring
washer. Because of the
piece's thinness<br
clear="none">
> there is
really only one thread
of engagement and
whenever I<br
clear="none">
> attempt to
push the head/tube
home into its final
position I<br
clear="none">
> invariably
dislodge one of the
screws from the head.
Am I doing<br
clear="none">
> something
wrong here or am I
simply being
ham-handed?<br
clear="none">
><br clear="none">
> 2. Is there a
trick to getting the
olive over the end of
the<br clear="none">
> stator tube
as I cannot get it
started and before I
start exerting<br
clear="none">
> force I
thought I would
enquire whether it
needs to be heated,<br
clear="none">
> etc. Getting
the old one off was
not easy and i would
up having to<br
clear="none">
> cut it with a
dremel tool. It is
possible that I have
slightly<br
clear="none">
> buggered the
end of the stator tube
and wonder if perhaps
I need<br clear="none">
> to dress the
end, chamfering it a
bit?<br clear="none">
><br clear="none">
> Any help will
be
appreciated--weather
is beginning to cool
off and<br
clear="none">
> I would like
to get the car back on
the road.<br
clear="none">
><br clear="none">
><br clear="none">
> Best--Michael
Oritt, 100 Le Mans<br
clear="none">
><br clear="none">
><br>
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