[Healeys] BN1 rear springs

[Michael Salter]

That's not an easy job.
Before tackling it try to determine that the springs that you are
installing are reasonably close to spec. as it is a real pain to have to
change them if they aren't.
Put the axle in position, preferably without the brake back plates
installed, then install the springs without attaching them to the axle.
Sometimes after attaching the front you have to put a wood block above the
rear end of the spring and jack up the center to get the rear shackle pins
in place. You may need a heavy person to sit in the trunk to prevent the
car from lifting as you do this.
Next use a couple of *very stout* zip ties to tie the axle down tightly to
the frame on one side.
Then on the other side use a very large and strong "C" clamp to pull the
spring up to the axle. which will allow you to install the square shaped
"U" bolts. (the wire ties are required to prevent the axle pivoting up on
the opposite frame rail as you do this "C" clamp thing. (Take care and your
time as there is a lot of stored energy in that compressed spring)
Leaving the zip ties in place repeat the "C" clamp process on the other
side.
The bad news about this  is that the new springs will sag after a couple of
years and eventually you will have to repeat the entire process!!!

M

On Sat, Nov 14, 2020 at 10:45 AM S.Carr via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Any advice from the List on fitting new springs to the rear of my BN1, so
> we can push the chassis around in the shop?  We violated the old rule of
> “never throw a part away until you’ve fitted the new one”—and the new
> springs have much more arch than the old, and we’re trying to figure out
> how to compress them enough to bolt them in place.  (And of course
> everything is *so* accessible under there….)
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Sarah Carr
>
> BN1 in PA
>
>
>
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> Windows 10
>
>
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