[Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs

[Mirek Sharp]

Mike, I am still a little sceptical that something is still not quite right.  No matter whether it was a Triumph, MG, Healey, Jag, Morgan or anything else I have had the joy to work on, I have, after cleaning the splines and threads (hub and knock-off), and coating with an anti-seize compound,  always been able to tighten the knock-offs by hand or with a few light taps with a hammer to be able to eliminate all play between the wheel and the hub.  When I am convinced it is all seated properly, then I will give a few substantial whacks with a copper or hide-faced hammer to tighten it up.  Driving will tighten them the rest of the way.  You should not need to wail on the knock-off to eliminate the play.  Given how critical a safety issue this is, I would be inclined to disassemble it and fully investigate the fit of everything.  Perhaps it is just tight threads – try removing the wheel and threading the knock-off on – it should go all the way on by hand.  If it doesn’t, there is your issue.  That should be rectified because if  the threads are not a good match, the tight threads may prevent the knock-off from self-tightening.

 

More work I know, but we all seem to have time on our hands.

 

Good luck, Mirek

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean
Sent: May-10-20 1:46 PM
To: michaelsalter at gmail.com; Perry
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs

 

OK, I got the message.  First of all because I converted from drum to 3000 disc brakes the hub extensions are different between front and back.  I doubt this makes a difference in mounting the wire wheel.  Late last night I went out to the garage and got out the big lead hammer I bought recently to get the knockoffs loose on my MGB GT.  I beat the Healey knockoffs a lot harder this time.  The wire wheel hub tightened up and showed no movement.  Apparently using a plastic dead blow hammer was not enough.

Mike MacLean

Sent from AT <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> &T Yahoo Mail on Android

 

On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 9:09 AM, Michael Salter

<michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

Correct Perry but at one time there was a combination of hubs, splines and nuts which really didn't work so, when the nut was fully tightened and bottomed out on the thread the wheel wasn't clamped between the inner taper and the taper inside the nut .... a tad frustrating....

 

M

 

On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 12:01 PM Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Michael et al,

Contemplate the mechanical connections between the hub extension, wire wheel hub and the knockoff. 

The hub extension is bolted to the axle using tapered nuts that seat in the face of the extension. No rotational movement.

The wire wheel is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The tolerances in the splines may allow for some rotational movement but they have to be loose enough to get the wheel off the extension. 

What else holds the wheel in place…the knockoff. The cone in the knock off forces the wire wheel hub against the hub extension, The contact interface is the tapers on the hub extension and the wire wheel hub. You know the little area that we are frequently reminded to apply a smear of grease to stop the little squeaky noise at low speed. If the knock off is tight enough there is not movement here either.

So Mike, if you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, the knock off is not tight enough.  

Suspect that the folks that developed knock offs understood the problem of owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used the handed (left and right) threads that self tighten. 

Gentlemen, remember your Mother today!

Perry

 

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From: Michael MacLean <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net> 
Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 12:57 AM
To: Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III

 

At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house.  I even have my groceries delivered.  I will only go out to eat at a drive through with an N95 mask on.  My Boston Terrier that goes with me does not wear one.  He refuses, but he is only three years old.  So, being sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a vengeance.  I did not know I knew so many off color phrases.  Everything to be done on this car is difficult due to parts incompatibility, parts fit, parts unavailability or just  my general ignorance and/or incompetence.  This evening I finished mounting the right side front hub with all new parts.  I thought I had done a nice job.  No lateral play in the hub.  Turns easily without binding.  The correct amount of shims after much trial and error.  Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel flex brake lines hooked up at both ends.  I have yet to run the brake lines.  Maybe next.   This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels.  I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can move the car when it is down off the dollies.  After mounting the wheel I gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks.  Now the moment of truth.  I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled straight back and forth.  Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel it moved slightly.  I thought it was the hub, but looking closely you can see the wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff!  What!?!  How hard are you supposed to hit those knockoffs?

Mike MacLean

 

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