[Healeys] Master Switch

[John Spaur]

In my experience with the switches they overheat and the spring collapses.

 

Good to know you have the rivets.

 

John

 

From: David Nock [mailto:healeydoc at gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2020 7:57 AM
To: John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>; 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch

 

The number one fault with both the original and the new switch is the spring inside looses its tension and you then loose the ground connection. We have sourced the correct rivets to restore your original battery switch.

 

I have also had to take apart the new switches to make them work correctly. Simply drill out the rivets. Stretch out the new spring and install new rivets.

 

 

David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net <mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> 
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com <http://www.britishcarspecialists.com> 

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
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From: John Spaur 

Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2020 9:53 PM

To: 'Healeys' 

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch

 

I have tried to post this to the list several times but it keeps bouncing.

 

The internal part in the reproduction switches is plastic, not Bakelite. If your engine is hard to start and you crank it too long the plastic part melts and the switch is toast. I rebuilt one recently with the proper Bakelite part. However, they are not always interchangeable with the newer metal case because the metal case is slightly smaller.

 

John

’62 BT7

San Jose, CA

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