[Healeys] Brakes
Bob Spidell
bspidell at comcast.net
Sat Jun 13 09:05:33 MDT 2020
Perry pointed out to me that PBE also has a shop in Bell Gardens
(Southern California).
Bob
On 6/12/2020 11:34 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> You could always try rebuilding the servo and, if it works, great, if
> not, install the imposter.
>
> I did a lot of research before I rebuilt mine--OK, I read this list
> and a couple forums--and it appeared the most common issue was with
> the vacuum canister. Specifically, the rubber tube that is used to
> backstop the leather seal in the canister was sold too
> long--intentionally--and needed to be trimmed to an appropriate length
> lest the piston get stuck in the canister. Also, the canister is lined
> with a dry lubricant that wears, and I found a suitable replacement
> (although in hindsight I think the original dry lubricant was still
> serviceable). It's been a while, maybe 10 years, but IIRC the
> canister had about 150K miles on it, and both cylinders on the servo
> body were in serviceable condition (no re-sleeving required). One
> thing that's hard to replace--Fred, if you decide to buy new, I'll pay
> for shipping if you'll send your valve to me--is the vacuum check
> valve; it's been NLA forever (my car came with a plastic aftermarket
> valve; which looked grossly out of place in my engine bay; I got a
> good used one from BCS).
>
> Perry, I don't think PBE is a franchise; the one-and-only is in San
> Jose, CA. I took the booster for my dad's '46 Chevy 2-ton truck there
> a few years ago; great guys but the shop is an unholy mess (BF
> everywhere). The Hispanic kid that worked on my dad's servo showed me
> his work; he was very proud of it and had a Girling from a Jag apart
> on the bench. The first time my dad tried out the booster he said the
> brakes almost sent him through the windshield. I drove the truck today
> and the brakes still work great. PBE stands behind--or in front?--of
> their work; I got the impression they know that the failure rate is
> not nonexistent.
>
> I haven't found DoT5 to be any more difficult to bleed than glycols,
> but you have to be careful not to aerate it in the process. To be
> sure, a bleeder on the servo would be helpful (as long as it's not
> like the bleeder on the clutch slave).
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 6/12/2020 9:35 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>> I would agree with Bob that the most likely problem is the servo.
>> You can check this fairly easily by loosening off the lower 10/32
>> nuts and screws on the servo chest and gently prying it open a little.
>> If the servo is leaking fluid will run out.
>> IMHO Bob's 50/50 success rate for rebuilds is a little optimistic 🙄🙄.
>> Unless you are fairly skilled you are unlikely to succeed on your
>> first few attempts.
>> Commercially I gave up rebuilding them many years ago because of the
>> dismal success rate and started installing PBR VH44 servos, possibly
>> still available from Healey Surgeons, which require different mount
>> brackets and fluid lines. We never had a VH44 come-back.
>> M
>>
>> On Fri., Jun. 12, 2020, 12:19 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net
>> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>>
>> If a significant amount of brake fluid is leaking into the servo you
>> will get white smoke out of the tailpipes (under most running
>> conditions). This is because the engine will suck fluid into the
>> intake
>> manifold through the vacuum hose. The most likely cause of this
>> is the
>> 'gland' seal; which seals the vacuum piston--the large canister
>> on the
>> servo--from the servo's hydraulics (it has two pistons; one is
>> activated
>> by pedal pressure to gate air at ambient pressure into the
>> canister to
>> assist a second 'master' cylinder, which powers the slave cyls).
>>
>> You can rebuild the servo yourself; I've done it once successfully,
>> others report 50-50 success. I've not heard overwhelming stories of
>> success with aftermarket (Lockheed, or an Australian equivalent)
>> replacements, but some like them. They aren't apparently, a 'drop
>> in'
>> replacement without some fiddling, and hearsay says they're not as
>> effective as the Girling (putting my Nomex suit on). The hydraulic
>> section of the servos is not much different from ordinary brake
>> cylinders. The shop manual has an excellent explanation of the
>> theory
>> and workings of the servos; it took me several reads and some
>> cogitating
>> to grok it all, but they are pretty ingenious.
>>
>> If you're not getting any white smoke, your guess is as good as
>> mine; I
>> have the same problem--although I haven't pulled the drums to
>> check the
>> rear slave cylinders (fronts are not leaking)--but since I had
>> bled them
>> before the problem occurred I'm thinking I screwed the pooch
>> somehow on
>> the bleed.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> On 6/12/2020 8:46 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote:
>> > I am having issues with the brakes on my 66 BJ8. I am new to
>> this BJ8
>> > with boosted brakes, but I have owned a BJ7 for many years. I
>> don't
>> > find any clues in the shop manual or in Norm Nock's tech talk
>> manual.
>> >
>> > When I press the brake pedal, it slowly goes to the floor. I am
>> losing
>> > hydraulic fluid in the reservoir but there are no apparent
>> leaks that
>> > I can see. There are no fluid spots on the garage floor at
>> each wheel
>> > and no evidence of brake fluid on the wire wheels which would
>> indicate
>> > a leak. I have pulled each wheel and I do not see brake fluid
>> anywhere.
>> >
>> > Is it possible that the fluid is leaking into the brake
>> booster? How
>> > am I able to check that out? If this is the case, can the
>> booster be
>> > repaired by me or someone else, if so, who. If fluid is
>> leaking into
>> > the booster, is it better to simply replace the booster and
>> who is a
>> > good source?
>> >
>> > Something always happens before what promises to be a great
>> sunny weekend.
>> >
>> > Thanks for any help,
>> >
>> > Fred
>>
>
>
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