[Healeys] BN2 Wiring Begins

David Nock BCS healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
Mon Jul 20 09:15:02 MDT 2020


Headlights are not fused with a single fuse for safety reasons. If there is an electrical fault that blows a fuse you will loose all lights.

If you want to protect the light circuit  I would recommend Installing a separate fuse for each light. Left and Right both high and low beams.

However in 45 years of working on British Cars. I do not remember a electrical fire due to a headlight issue. I have see lots damage to the white wire circuit due to damage under the car causing a short. Also have seen the red wire to the tail and dash lights also due to damage to the harness under the car or things in the trunk.  Usually if there is an electrical short it is caused by the rubber connectors rotting away and shorting out, or an old cloth harness that needed replaced anyway.

 

David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

From: Michael Oritt 
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2020 6:31 PM
To: David Nock 
Cc: gradea1 at charter.net ; Ahealey help ; Michael Lempert 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Wiring Begins

David--

I have never understood this approach though I know it is what you, your Dad and some others espouse.

Here's my issue:  If a short-circuit/overload should occur with no sacrificial fuse isn't it likely that the wiring will be destroyed with insulation melted at the point of the short, requiring replacement of the wire?  If so, how is one worse off with a fuse protecting the circuit--in either case there will be no lights but with a fuse it is possible one might find the cause of the problem and cure it while on the road with no need to later pull new wires, etc.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 2:40 PM David Nock via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

  DO NOT FUSE THE BLUE HEADLIGHT WIRE. 

  Why because if you are driving at night and suddenly loose your lights due to a faulty fuse for what ever reason. You will not be able to see and then you never know what may happen.

  David Nock



    On Jul 19, 2020, at 10:34 AM, Henry G Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

    There is no fuse protection to the rear of the car and also the headlights.  Suggest you add a 20A inline fuse to the red wire coming to the rear just at the left side junction of the tail lamp harness to protect both tail and licence lights in the event of a rear end collision.  A short will burn the harness down all the way to the firewall.  Also fuse the blue wire at the headlight switch for the same reason. The fuse box only covers the horns, battery (50A) and key on items (35A). If you use US made fuses cut them by 1/2 - 25 and 17 amp Buss fuses 

    Note also that the BN2 has only one overdrive relay (no govener). Hank, healeyhelper.com


    -----------------------------------------

    From: "Michael Salter via Healeys" 
    To: "Team.net"
    Cc: "Ahealey help", "Michael Lempert"
    Sent: Saturday July 18 2020 2:17:15PM
    Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Wiring Begins


    Put a fuse in the power circuit from the battery before you turn anything on.  Better to blow a fuse than burn up the wiring.

    Absolutely 

    On Sat., Jul. 18, 2020, 4:30 p.m. Team.net via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

      Put a fuse in the power circuit from the battery before you turn anything on.  Better to blow a fuse than burn up the wiring.



        On Jul 18, 2020, at 2:45 PM, Michael Lempert via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


        > As some of you may remember, I am trying to get as much done in the engine
        > bay of my BN2 as possible before I try dropping the engine in the car.
        > Last night i finished mounting the insulating panels on the outside of the
        > driver's footwell.  This weekend I would like to start to install the part
        > of the wiring harness that passes through the firewall and whatever sub
        > harnesses go in the engine bay.  In the past I installed a new harness in
        > my Bugeye during that restoration without much trouble.  That is a much
        > simpler harness though.  The harness for the BN2 has a lot more going on
        > under the bonnet.  I can see the general physical routing of the main
        > harness in some of the many pictures I have gathered over the years.  It is
        > a little intimidating when there are points in the harness when multiple
        > wires of the same color exit the loom at a single point.  One spot has four
        > white wires, two smaller gauge than the other two, and one brown wire.
        > Another has four green wires and one brown wire coming out of the loom a
        > couple inches from the bunch of white wires.  I can see what component
        > these wires go to by the routing of the loom, but how to know which wire of
        > the same color goes to which connection on that component.  Any suggestions
        > before I pull out what hair I have left?
        > Mike MacLean
        > 

        Michael:  If you’re working from a BN1 wiring diagram, be aware that there was but one difference with the BN2. The flasher indicator in the dash instrument panel is wired differently. Best to check that you have the correct indicator first. 

        Regards,
        Mike Lempert
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