[Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 18

Wed Jan 15 13:46:53 MST 2020

 The  ALLOY  Radiators from Wizard Cooling will  solve your cooling problems. my 100 temp dropped to around  90 in  summer.So  Florida Sun should be no problem !!
    On Thursday, 16 January 2020, 08:00:16 GMT+13, healeys-request at autox.team.net <healeys-request at autox.team.net> wrote:  

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Today's Topics:

  1. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes to
      theexisting radiator (Bob Spidell)
  2. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes to
      theexisting radiator (warthodson at aol.com)
  3. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes to
      theexisting radiator (Bob Spidell)
  4. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes to
      theexisting radiator (Robert Begani)
  5. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes to
      theexisting radiator (Michael Oritt)
  6. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes to
      theexisting radiator (Roger Grace)
  7. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes to
      theexisting radiator (Chris Dimmock)
  8. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes
      totheexisting radiator (Perry)
  9. Re: Over heating and adding additional core tubes
      totheexisting radiator (Perry)
  10. [OT] Toyota is recalling nearly 700, 000 vehicles because of
      issues with the fuel pumps - CNN (Bob Spidell)
  11. Re: [OT] Toyota is recalling nearly 700, 000 vehicles because
      of issues with the fuel pumps - CNN (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
  I have a BJ8 with:

 - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core
 - Texas Cooler fan
 - recently rebuilt engine with approx. 6K miles--hot-tanked, properly tuned, etc.--and Robertshaw sleeved 180degF thermostat
 - Jet-Hot coated exhaust manifold

 ... and a BN2/100M with:

 - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core
 - OEM art deco fan
 - rebuilt engine with a couple thousand miles at most--still working on 'perfect' mixture--and garden-variety Stant 180degF thermostat
 - manifold with high-temp 'authentic color' paint only

 Both behave identically, i.e. will run 'cool'--160degF or less--on cool days, 180degF on 'typical' days (72degF), and both will get hot (over 200) sitting in traffic on typical or hotter days or pulling up a long grade.

 FWIW

 Bob

 On 1/14/2020 9:58 AM, Michael Salter wrote:

 "Why do other Healey’s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows?" 
  Bob that has perplexed me for decades but certainly seems to be reality. Good luck with your modifications  ... I  have always found that additional tubes in the radiator make a huge difference.  
  M  
  On Tue, Jan 14, 2020, 12:27 PM Robert Begani, <rfbegani at gmail.com> wrote:

I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph.  Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour.  However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up.  So the next step is to re-core the radiator.  The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity.  This is a SKI purchase.  Spend the Kids Inheritance.  Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock.

What do you think about Push and Pull?  Take off the engine fan?

By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications.  He knows what to do.  The only modification is the 20 over pistons.  

Why do other Healey’s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows?

Bob 

From: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> 
 Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM
 To: Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>
 Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator

Bob

With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation. 

Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Robert Begani
 Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM
 To: 'Perry'
 Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator

Hi Perry:

I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator.  As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine.  As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other.

Bob

 If you have a 180 degree T,stat & your engine is running 160 degrees on a cool day your T'stat must be broken!
Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 1:41 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator

 I have a BJ8 with:

 - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core
 - Texas Cooler fan
 - recently rebuilt engine with approx. 6K miles--hot-tanked, properly tuned, etc.--and Robertshaw sleeved 180degF thermostat
 - Jet-Hot coated exhaust manifold

 ... and a BN2/100M with:

 - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core
 - OEM art deco fan
 - rebuilt engine with a couple thousand miles at most--still working on 'perfect' mixture--and garden-variety Stant 180degF thermostat
 - manifold with high-temp 'authentic color' paint only

 Both behave identically, i.e. will run 'cool'--160degF or less--on cool days, 180degF on 'typical' days (72degF), and both will get hot (over 200) sitting in traffic on typical or hotter days or pulling up a long grade.

 FWIW

 Bob

  Nope.  Have confirmed thermostat's function, tried several and others report their cars do the same.  No one knows why.

 On 1/14/2020 1:28 PM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:

 If you have a 180 degree T,stat & your engine is running 160 degrees on a cool day your T'stat must be broken! 
  Gary Hodson

 -----Original Message-----
 From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
 To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
 Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 1:41 pm
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator

   I have a BJ8 with:

 - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core
 - Texas Cooler fan
 - recently rebuilt engine with approx. 6K miles--hot-tanked, properly tuned, etc.--and Robertshaw sleeved 180degF thermostat
 - Jet-Hot coated exhaust manifold

 ... and a BN2/100M with:

 - OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core
 - OEM art deco fan
 - rebuilt engine with a couple thousand miles at most--still working on 'perfect' mixture--and garden-variety Stant 180degF thermostat
 - manifold with high-temp 'authentic color' paint only

 Both behave identically, i.e. will run 'cool'--160degF or less--on cool days, 180degF on 'typical' days (72degF), and both will get hot (over 200) sitting in traffic on typical or hotter days or pulling up a long grade.

 FWIW

 Bob

Thanks Bob, I am working my way through the program.  The engine was just rebuilt with only 100 miles on it by a well know machine shop and boiled cleaned etc. can only hope they did the right job.

Have a original Texas cooler and the Shovel to direct the air through to the radiator which had a high cfm pusher fan.  I have installed the tunnel which is wrapped in aluminum and some rubber insulation inside and out. It weighs a ton and does not get hot.  However, the gear shifter porthole does not have the rubber seal so the air coming out of it is tremendous at 2000-3000 rpm, so the shovel really works.  But, still the temperature rises

Within 2 weeks the original radiator will be re-cored. I am hoping that this will greatly reduce the coolant temperature to the level you describe.

Meanwhile, I have a good list of items to consider adjusting.  Will keep you all informed of the progress.

Bob Begani

67  BJ8

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 2:41 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator

I have a BJ8 with:

- OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core
- Texas Cooler fan
- recently rebuilt engine with approx. 6K miles--hot-tanked, properly tuned, etc.--and Robertshaw sleeved 180degF thermostat
- Jet-Hot coated exhaust manifold

... and a BN2/100M with:

- OEM radiator with 4-row 'Excel' core
- OEM art deco fan
- rebuilt engine with a couple thousand miles at most--still working on 'perfect' mixture--and garden-variety Stant 180degF thermostat
- manifold with high-temp 'authentic color' paint only

Both behave identically, i.e. will run 'cool'--160degF or less--on cool days, 180degF on 'typical' days (72degF), and both will get hot (over 200) sitting in traffic on typical or hotter days or pulling up a long grade.

FWIW

Bob

Robert--
I'm sure you'll hear you should definitely NOT wrap the exhaust system with lagging as it will cause its early demise due to rust.  I was told that 18 years ago and didn't listen--my steel headers are still intact.   

Best--Michael Oritt
On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 1:07 PM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

I am jumping in on this subject a bit late, so I do not know if Bob has a thermostat that incorporates a moving sleeve for the bypass or not. Either that type of thermostat or a fixed blanking sleeve for the bypass would be essential for this climate. Or any climate for that matter.  

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>
To: 'Perry' <healeyguy at aol.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 11:27 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator

I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph.  Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour.  However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up.  So the next step is to re-core the radiator.  The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity.  This is a SKI purchase.  Spend the Kids Inheritance.  Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock.  What do you think about Push and Pull?  Take off the engine fan?  By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications.  He knows what to do.  The only modification is the 20 over pistons.    Why do other Healey’s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows?  Bob   From: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> 
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM
To: Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator  BobWith the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation. Perry  Sent from Mail for Windows 10  From: Robert Begani
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM
To: 'Perry'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator  Hi Perry:  I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator.  As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine.  As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other.  Bob  _______________________________________________
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#yiv1073365818 body {min-height:100%;color:#000000;font-size:12pt;font-family:arial, helvetica, sans-serif;}Just a thought ...
Our cars all run hotter when idling and consequent reduced airflow.
However both fan airflow and water flow are proportional to speed.
So at 750 RPM idle compared to say 1500 RPM the air flow (engine driven fan) and coolant flow is reduced by a factor of 2.
So increasing just the airfow with constant speed E fans has somewhat limited effect.
It had minor improvement for me in traffic.
I then installed an electric water pump to compensate for the reduced coolant flow at idling.
Works really well in conjuction with an E fan
The E pump is almost invisible in the engine compartment - you have to really look for it. It is installed in line in the bottom hose.
Both are controlled from a single switch under the dash - via a relay. BTW I have a natural dislike for thermostats but that would work too. 
So whenever the engine is really up to temp (sustained run) and am approaching traffic I switch them both on.
Works fine and relaible so far - but now do keep a spare bottom hose in my trunk.
rg

----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 16:04:11 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator

Robert--
I'm sure you'll hear you should definitely NOT wrap the exhaust system with lagging as it will cause its early demise due to rust.  I was told that 18 years ago and didn't listen--my steel headers are still intact.   

Best--Michael Oritt
On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 1:07 PM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

I am jumping in on this subject a bit late, so I do not know if Bob has a thermostat that incorporates a moving sleeve for the bypass or not. Either that type of thermostat or a fixed blanking sleeve for the bypass would be essential for this climate. Or any climate for that matter.  

-----Original Message-----

From: Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>

To: 'Perry' <healeyguy at aol.com>

Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>

Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 11:27 am

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator

I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph.  Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour.  However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up.  So the next step is to re-core the radiator.  The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity.  This is a SKI purchase.  Spend the Kids Inheritance.  Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock.  What do you think about Push and Pull?  Take off the engine fan?  By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications.  He knows what to do.  The only modification is the 20 over pistons.    Why do other Healey’s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows?  Bob   From: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> 
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM
To: Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator BobWith the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation.Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Robert Begani
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM
To: 'Perry'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator Hi Perry:  I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator.  As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine.  As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other.  Bob 

_______________________________________________

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Same. Wrapped my steel headers in 1995. No issues to date with them. Replaced mufflers twice, but that's a road abrasion issue due to my lack of ground clearance...BestChris

On 15 Jan 2020, at 10:04 am, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

Robert--
I'm sure you'll hear you should definitely NOT wrap the exhaust system with lagging as it will cause its early demise due to rust.  I was told that 18 years ago and didn't listen--my steel headers are still intact.   

Best--Michael Oritt
On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 1:07 PM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

I am jumping in on this subject a bit late, so I do not know if Bob has a thermostat that incorporates a moving sleeve for the bypass or not. Either that type of thermostat or a fixed blanking sleeve for the bypass would be essential for this climate. Or any climate for that matter.  

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>
To: 'Perry' <healeyguy at aol.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 11:27 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator

I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph.  Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour.  However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up.  So the next step is to re-core the radiator.  The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity.  This is a SKI purchase.  Spend the Kids Inheritance.  Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock.  What do you think about Push and Pull?  Take off the engine fan?  By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications.  He knows what to do.  The only modification is the 20 over pistons.    Why do other Healey’s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows?  Bob   From: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> 
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM
To: Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator  BobWith the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation. Perry  Sent from Mail for Windows 10  From: Robert Begani
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM
To: 'Perry'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator  Hi Perry:  I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator.  As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine.  As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other.  Bob  _______________________________________________
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Roger

The constant flow of water (coolant, regardless of engine RPM, to maximize the cooling ability, is an interesting thought.  My thermodynamics classes were long ago and  I really wasn’t paying attention. Okay maybe a little but not much. 

I sent the info below to Bob earlier and did not copy the list.  Its about a issue (bold stuff below) that I have found several times when cleaning a six cylinder block during a rebuild.

Perry

“Bob

With 37 years living in Hawaii I understand the impact of tropical weather. I used to dread when asked to participate in a parade with the stock 100. With no fan shroud the 4 blade stock fan only moved about 1000 CFM and that was not at idle. The car at even 30MPH has plenty of air flow through the rad. A pusher fan actually has the possibility of blocking air flow at speed.  Ignition timing has an impact on the running temp but is not the game changer. Carb mixture settings (to lean) will push the temps up. That said the six cylinder cars seem to have less overheating issues then the 100’s. 

On at least 6 3000 engines I have found extreme buildup of debris inside the water passages at the lower areas adjacent to the cylinders. Less on cylinders 1 and 6. Block paint was discolored on a couple of them in that area. Boiling the block did not remove the crud.  I used a piece of speedo cable in a drill motor to brake up the corrosion and air and vacuum to get it out of the blocks. Of course it required a stripped block with freeze plugs removed. 

Ok Bob, while I’m putting this email together  I see that a bunch of folks jumped in. Looks like similar thoughts. 

P

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Roger Grace
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 6:53 PM
To: Michael Oritt
Cc: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes totheexisting radiator

Just a thought ...

Our cars all run hotter when idling and consequent reduced airflow.

However both fan airflow and water flow are proportional to speed.

So at 750 RPM idle compared to say 1500 RPM the air flow (engine driven fan) and coolant flow is reduced by a factor of 2.

So increasing just the airfow with constant speed E fans has somewhat limited effect.

It had minor improvement for me in traffic.

I then installed an electric water pump to compensate for the reduced coolant flow at idling.

Works really well in conjuction with an E fan

The E pump is almost invisible in the engine compartment - you have to really look for it. It is installed in line in the bottom hose.

Both are controlled from a single switch under the dash - via a relay. BTW I have a natural dislike for thermostats but that would work too. 

So whenever the engine is really up to temp (sustained run) and am approaching traffic I switch them both on.

Works fine and relaible so far - but now do keep a spare bottom hose in my trunk.

rg

----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 16:04:11 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator

Robert--

I'm sure you'll hear you should definitely NOT wrap the exhaust system with lagging as it will cause its early demise due to rust.  

I was told that 18 years ago and didn't listen--my steel headers are still intact.   

Best--Michael Oritt

On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 1:07 PM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

I am jumping in on this subject a bit late, so I do not know if Bob has a thermostat that incorporates a moving sleeve for the bypass or not. Either that type of thermostat or a fixed blanking sleeve for the bypass would be essential for this climate. Or any climate for that matter.  

-----Original Message-----

From: Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>

To: 'Perry' <healeyguy at aol.com>

Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>

Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 11:27 am

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator

I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph.  Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour.  However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up.  So the next step is to re-core the radiator.  The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity.  This is a SKI purchase.  Spend the Kids Inheritance.  Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock.

What do you think about Push and Pull?  Take off the engine fan?

By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications.  He knows what to do.  The only modification is the 20 over pistons.  

Why do other Healey’s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows?

Bob 

From: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> 
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM
To: Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator

Bob

With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation.

Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Robert Begani
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM
To: 'Perry'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator

Hi Perry:

I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator.  As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine.  As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other.

Bob

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Roger

The constant flow of water (coolant, regardless of engine RPM, to maximize the cooling ability, is an interesting thought.  My thermodynamics classes were long ago and  I really wasn’t paying attention. Okay maybe a little but not much. 

I sent the info below to Bob earlier and did not copy the list.  Its about a issue (bold stuff below) that I have found several times when cleaning a six cylinder block during a rebuild.

Perry

“Bob

With 37 years living in Hawaii I understand the impact of tropical weather. I used to dread when asked to participate in a parade with the stock 100. With no fan shroud the 4 blade stock fan only moved about 1000 CFM and that was not at idle. The car at even 30MPH has plenty of air flow through the rad. A pusher fan actually has the possibility of blocking air flow at speed.  Ignition timing has an impact on the running temp but is not the game changer. Carb mixture settings (to lean) will push the temps up. That said the six cylinder cars seem to have less overheating issues then the 100’s. 

On at least 6 3000 engines I have found extreme buildup of debris inside the water passages at the lower areas adjacent to the cylinders. Less on cylinders 1 and 6. Block paint was discolored on a couple of them in that area. Boiling the block did not remove the crud.  I used a piece of speedo cable in a drill motor to brake up the corrosion and air and vacuum to get it out of the blocks. Of course it required a stripped block with freeze plugs removed. 

Ok Bob, while I’m putting this email together  I see that a bunch of folks jumped in. Looks like similar thoughts. 

P

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Roger Grace
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 6:53 PM
To: Michael Oritt
Cc: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes totheexisting radiator

Just a thought ...

Our cars all run hotter when idling and consequent reduced airflow.

However both fan airflow and water flow are proportional to speed.

So at 750 RPM idle compared to say 1500 RPM the air flow (engine driven fan) and coolant flow is reduced by a factor of 2.

So increasing just the airfow with constant speed E fans has somewhat limited effect.

It had minor improvement for me in traffic.

I then installed an electric water pump to compensate for the reduced coolant flow at idling.

Works really well in conjuction with an E fan

The E pump is almost invisible in the engine compartment - you have to really look for it. It is installed in line in the bottom hose.

Both are controlled from a single switch under the dash - via a relay. BTW I have a natural dislike for thermostats but that would work too. 

So whenever the engine is really up to temp (sustained run) and am approaching traffic I switch them both on.

Works fine and relaible so far - but now do keep a spare bottom hose in my trunk.

rg

----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, 14 Jan 2020 16:04:11 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator

Robert--

I'm sure you'll hear you should definitely NOT wrap the exhaust system with lagging as it will cause its early demise due to rust.  

I was told that 18 years ago and didn't listen--my steel headers are still intact.   

Best--Michael Oritt

On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 1:07 PM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

I am jumping in on this subject a bit late, so I do not know if Bob has a thermostat that incorporates a moving sleeve for the bypass or not. Either that type of thermostat or a fixed blanking sleeve for the bypass would be essential for this climate. Or any climate for that matter.  

-----Original Message-----

From: Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>

To: 'Perry' <healeyguy at aol.com>

Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>

Sent: Tue, Jan 14, 2020 11:27 am

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator

I agree with you, however, this is south Florida where a cool winter day is today, where the temperature is currently 79 degrees and rising to a high of 83 degrees with a se wind at 7 mph.  Great for a day sail on the Harbor which I will do in the next hour.  However, it does make driving a hot car fun. There is not enough cooling capacity in the stock radiator to handle hot climates and have to stop and go because the temperature does not go down only up.  So the next step is to re-core the radiator.  The local radiator guy knows the problem and for $500 will provide new core using the old tanks which will give at least 50% more cooling capacity.  This is a SKI purchase.  Spend the Kids Inheritance.  Then I will think about wrapping the exhaust manifolds and headers to stop vapor lock.

What do you think about Push and Pull?  Take off the engine fan?

By the way, I know the engine machine shop boiled out, oil bathed, everything in the engine during his machining of the engine to bring it up to specifications.  He knows what to do.  The only modification is the 20 over pistons.  

Why do other Healey’s with a stock radiator not have this problem, who knows?

Bob 

From: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> 
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:47 AM
To: Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator

Bob

With the extras that you have added to facilitate the airflow the car should be running much cooler than 212, even with a stock radiator. There is something else amiss in the equation.

Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Robert Begani
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 11:23 AM
To: 'Perry'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Over heating and adding additional core tubes to theexisting radiator

Hi Perry:

I do not remember the CFM, however, it is the Hayden Fan offered by Moss with the largest diameter to fit the radiator.  As a pusher it really pushes air through the engine compartment at low speeds and standing still. I still have an original Texas 6 blade fan on the engine.  As I was searching overheating problems, one reference indicated that is not recommended as they act against each other.

Bob

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Is SU making fuel pumps for Toyota?

https://www.cnn.com/2020/01/14/business/toyota-fuel-pump-recall-trnd/index.html 

 #yiv1073365818 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}Not funny! We just bought a 2019 Camry...
I wonder if a Mr. Gasket pump will work there? Fixed my Healey.
Bill LawrenceBN1 #554From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2020 2:20 AM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Toyota is recalling nearly 700, 000 vehicles because of issues with the fuel pumps - CNN Is SU making fuel pumps for Toyota?

https://www.cnn.com/2020/01/14/business/toyota-fuel-pump-recall-trnd/index.html

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