[Healeys] Today's Rant
WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
ynotink at msn.com
Sun Feb 23 13:37:08 MST 2020
The problem is that there is more friction in the thread than in the tapered joint. Make sure the tapers on the joint and in the arm are both dry, maybe clean them with some lacquer thinner. Make sure the tapers are lined up and use the pickle fork to maintain tension on the joint as you draw it together with the nut. At some point it will lock together.
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 22, 2020 5:23:55 PM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Today's Rant
I finally got to tighten up all the ball joints for the steering rods of my BN2 yesterday. The right side went fine. The left side rod was another matter. I don't remember where I obtained the pair of side rods, but they must have been designed by an idiot. These side rods have sealed ball joints and the nuts are the nylon insert type. I was lucky with the right side when it tightened up correctly. For some reason the left rod ball joints just spun with the nut and would not tighten. After the threads turned with the nut a few times oil from the boots started leaking. This is a permanently sealed boot held in place with a crimped metal ring. So, instead of just replacing the boot, I have to replace a brand new side rod. To make this an even more perfect disaster, the side rods from our usual suppliers are a different configuration. The boots are replaceable and the nuts are the castle type with a split pin. Of course this means I have to replace them as a pair doubling the cost. Moss wants 80 bucks each. Just love it when new parts turn out to be crap. Rant over.
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