[Healeys] Today's Rant
michaelsalter at gmail.com
Sat Feb 22 12:58:39 MST 2020
Actually there is an easier way.
Put washers under the nut so that only about 3 threads are showing.
Install a plain nut and tighten it to lock the pin into the taper.
Remove the nut and washers then install the nylock nut.
On Sun, Feb 23, 2020, 7:36 AM HealeyRick, <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:
> Two hands only. Insert pickle fork. Put nut on thread and use ratchet to
> tighten with one hand. Use the other hand to apply downward pressure on
> the pickle fork to use it as a lever and keep the ball from turning. It
> works. Have I ever "steered" you wrong?
> On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 1:32 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
>> I was using an impact gun on low torque setting with my son pulling the
>> joint tight as I applied the gun. Worked great on the right side. Just
>> spun the threads when we got to the left side. I figure it will be
>> different with the castle nuts on the new side rods. No nylon to grab the
>> threads. Maybe. Your pickle fork idea sounds like you need three hands to
>> Mike MacLean
>> On Saturday, February 22, 2020, 10:27:15 AM PST, HealeyRick <
>> healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:
>> Use a pickle fork ball joint separator to wedge the ball joint from
>> turning and get the nut started. Gradually withdraw it as you continue to
>> tighten the nut.
>> Happy Healeying,
>> Rick Neville
>> On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 12:24 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
>> I finally got to tighten up all the ball joints for the steering rods of
>> my BN2 yesterday. The right side went fine. The left side rod was another
>> matter. I don't remember where I obtained the pair of side rods, but they
>> must have been designed by an idiot. These side rods have sealed ball
>> joints and the nuts are the nylon insert type. I was lucky with the right
>> side when it tightened up correctly. For some reason the left rod ball
>> joints just spun with the nut and would not tighten. After the threads
>> turned with the nut a few times oil from the boots started leaking. This
>> is a permanently sealed boot held in place with a crimped metal ring. So,
>> instead of just replacing the boot, I have to replace a brand new side
>> rod. To make this an even more perfect disaster, the side rods from our
>> usual suppliers are a different configuration. The boots are replaceable
>> and the nuts are the castle type with a split pin. Of course this means I
>> have to replace them as a pair doubling the cost. Moss wants 80 bucks
>> each. Just love it when new parts turn out to be crap. Rant over.
>> Mike MacLean
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