[Healeys] What Thread?

Jean Caron vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com
Sun Dec 20 13:31:14 MST 2020


It is the same story all over, there has to be a demand for the part, then make it in numbers that will sell at a price the customers are prepared to pay. Most machined shop will make you one of these and make it exactly like the old ones but expect to pay in excess of $150.00.

Jean


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From: Michael Salter<mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: December 20, 2020 1:37 PM
To: Harold Manifold<mailto:manifold at telus.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] What Thread?

Absolutely agree Harold however, just to complicate issues with Mike's generator pillar his is for a 100 and the threads are BSF. You can see the difference between the 6 cylinder version (top) and the 4 cylinder (bottom) here:
[cid:ii_kixir74p1]
I certainly share Mike's frustration.
Truly, how much harder is it to make the part correctly with the correct BSF threads than to make it wrong.

M


On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 12:46 PM Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net<mailto:manifold at telus.net>> wrote:
Michael,

After learning from several of my mistakes when I mismatched fasteners on my 1960 BT7 I always measure twice and assemble once. I have an original of the part in the picture. The big end is 20 TPI with a major diameter that matches a 7/16 UNF. A 7/16 - 20 UNF nut fits. The small end is 24 TPI and the closest major diameter would be a 3/8 UNF but the diameter is undersized however a 3/8 - 24 UNF nut does fit.

To help identify the tread type I measure the TPI and the major diameter and the go to this website to see what fits. Knowing the tread pitch helps to narrow down the possibilities.

https://www.ring-plug-thread-gages.com/ti-thread-data-charts.html<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ring-plug-thread-gages.com%2Fti-thread-data-charts.html&data=04%7C01%7C%7C2ac273dc130b4217527d08d8a51df7ba%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637440898641569412%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=DSFzH5YVQbACHdgs3ofK9QpUYmkOtZjHlfGBHb4Yj8E%3D&reserved=0>

I trust this helps.... Harold




From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>] On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2020 2:50 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] What Thread?

If UNF7/16 is just to large it may be metric, probably M10. In that case the stud's outside diameter should be just shy of 10,0mm or at most 10,0mm when it is shoddily cut.

Kees Oudesluijs


Op 20-12-2020 om 11:12 schreef john harper:
Mike

Both treads should be BSF. The problem is that not enough attention is given to detail. Suppliers cannot bother to get things correct but they know they have used an incorrect thread or otherwise, they would not have supplied the nuts. The treads are most likely metric.

Rgds

On Sun, 20 Dec 2020 at 09:19, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net<mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>> wrote:
The threaded pillar in the picture was purchased from Ahead4Healeys.  This is the pillar for the generator adjusting bracket.  It came without the nuts needed for the ends.  I can't figure out what type of threads these are.  I bought a 1/2" BSF nut and a 7/16 BSF nut for it.  Problem is both of those nuts are too loose.  When I try to tighten the large thread on the front engine plate it will not tighten up.  It gets almost tight then pops loose and spins.  The threads on the pillar are not damaged, so it must be the wrong nut.  Same for the other end.  A UNF nut will not go more than a couple of turns then stops.  I even tried running a metric die over the threads and no dice.  I am confused.
Mike MacLean
[cid:1768196fc97aeaef6fe1]


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