[Healeys] Drove the Healey today?!

Thu Apr 23 05:17:45 MDT 2020

Harold--

For the engine I prefer a bit higher zinc, etc. level and use a ZDDP
additive, but I agree with your choices for the gearbox and diff and use
lubes of the same grades though of different brands.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 9:32 PM Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:

> I see the lubricant debate continues unabated. My prediction is there will
> be a cure for COVID-19 before there is a consensus on what is the best
> lubricant to use in the engine, gear box and differential. I did some
> research into the topic a year or so ago. The attached spreadsheet has a
> summary for what was recommended 50 years ago compared to what is available
> today. For the record this is what I use:
>
> Engine - *Castrol Classic XL 20W*-*50 (Note - Contains 800 ppm ZDDP)*
> *Gearbox - Pennzoil GL-4 Manual Transmission oil 75W-90 (remember there is
> a convention gear box in front of the OD gear oils unlike engine oils have
> pressure additives)*
> *Differential - Pennzoil GL-5 Axle and Gear Oil 80W-90*
>
> *Let the debate continue!*
>
> *Stay safe ... Harold*
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *
> Warren
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 22, 2020 2:10 AM
> *To:* gradea1 at charter.net
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Drove the Healey today?!
>
> This is my understanding of Redline MT 90 *transmission oil*. Not for
> differentials. I will return to ND 30 if this is a problem in my OD? My
> Healey(original owner) has over 190,000 miles. Tranny and OD are untouched
> until this year. Not really surprised with some wear. MT 90 has smoothed
> shifting but leaks a lot!
>
>
>
> WD 67 BJ8
>
>
>
> This is a great upgrade for your manual trans! This is one of the easiest
> "mods" to do for your trans. Drain old fluid, pour this in. The trans will
> shift quicker, feel less notchy, less wear on its components, etc!
>
> ·       Appropriate coefficient of friction for most manual transmission
> synchronizers (other's synthetic gear oils are often too slippery for
> proper synchro engagement)
>
> ·       Red Line offers lubricants to pinpoint nearly every transmission
> application
>
> ·       MT-90 is not for use in differentials with hypoid gears
>
> ·       Excellent gear and synchro protection, balanced slipperiness for
> easier shifting in cold climates
>
> ·       Excellent for high- and low-mile transmissions
>
> ·       Compatible with petroleums and other synthetics
>
> ·       75W90 GL-4 gear oil (similar to SAE 5W40/10W40 engine oil
> viscosity)
>
> ·       Offers quicker shifts, perfect synchronizer coefficient of
> friction
>
> ·       Safe for brass synchros, as it lacks the reactive sulfurs found
> in most GL-5 oils that cause damage
>
> ·       High performance gear protection and longer synchro life
>
> ·       Eliminates notchy shifting, even when cold
>
> ·       Satisfies the gear oil viscosity requirements of 75W, 80W and
> motor oil viscosities of SAE 40, 10W40, and 15W40
>
> ·       Recommended for GL-1, GL-3, and GL-4 applications, as well as
> where most special synchromesh fluids are specified
>
> Most manual transmissions take a little over 2 quarts of fluid.
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *gradea1 at charter.net
> *Sent: *Wednesday, April 22, 2020 1:10 AM
> *To: *Warren <flyhihealey at gmail.com>
> *Cc: *healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject: *RE: RE: [Healeys] Drove the Healey today?!
>
>
>
> UH OH! that is your slugglish issue! I would drain that oil (for rear
> ends) and replace it with the 30W ND. That rear end oil foams in the
> annullus and plays hell with the spring pressure, passage thru the system
> and fast clutch engagement.  Check it out on the web...that heavy fish oil
> is not for British Trannys. If you put the heavy stuff in to stop leaks,
> that's not the answer; neither is synthetic-too thin.The gearbox and OD
> were designed to run on conventional oil...ancient as it may seem. Yes, a
> small air compressor is enough of a blast to clear passages.You will
> probably hear the clutch pistons engage if air is put on the valve
> opening.  If you remove the spring, ball, and plunger with a magnet, you
> can then extract the valve and run a small wire down the middle to clean
> it-then a blast of air-be careful to not get any lint from a shop rag into
> the mix. Upon rebuilding a unit it is "suggested"  to carefully enlarge the
> valve hole to 1mm (but cleanliness is probably best solution).  The new
> pistons sold today, and made by Overdrive Spares, (old Laycock group) are
> equipped with rubber o-rings. Good that you replaced the tire bushings! Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> From: "Warren"
> To: "gradea1 at charter.net"
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
> Sent: Tuesday April 21 2020 4:48:59PM
> Subject: RE: RE: [Healeys] Drove the Healey today?!
>
> Yes thanks for the tip. The problem is slow to engage. It was suggested
> maybe accumulator O ring. Just did pull the check valve and all. Did seem
> like dirty oil. I cleaned it all up. I’m already committed to extracting
> the accumulator and piston but wanted to replace all the tranny mounts and
> bushings which I did. Mounts were pretty squished and cracked.
> Bushings(radiator saver)were fairly solid but were replaced.  They were the
> original. Cleaning and degreasing as I go along.
>
>
>
> If(?)it is the O ring or rings, I guess they are metal on the piston, I
> might just spring for a uprated from Dennis Welch or AH spares has a combo
> housing/piston both which have rubber O rings.
>
>
>
> Working my way to the extraction part. I want to use forced air through
> the operating valve but I only have a small air compressor for tires. Some
> kind of extraction tool would be helpful. (18G182) I have always changed
> tranny oil regularly. Used ND 30 early on. Using MT 90 now for many years.
>
>
>
> Any and all suggestions appreciated.
>
>
>
> WD  67 BJ8
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *gradea1 at charter.net
> *Sent: *Tuesday, April 21, 2020 6:14 PM
> *To: *Warren <flyhihealey at gmail.com>
> *Cc: *healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject: *RE: [Healeys] Drove the Healey today?!
>
>
>
> Warren- Don't know the OD problem you are experiencing, but suggest before
> you tear into it, undo and clean the check valve and ball on the top right
> side (if you haven't already done so). One small spot of dirt lodged in the
> valve drilling can kill the hydraulics and make it seem like a bigger
> issue. It may be worn parts, but, if not, this is an easy first test.  If
> it is dirt; good idea to change oil and add fresh SAE 30W non detergent oil
> to the unit. Regards, Hank, healeyhelper.com
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> From: "Warren"
> To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
> Cc:
> Sent: Tuesday April 21 2020 2:36:17PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Drove the Healey today?!
>
>
>
>
>
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5L7PfKtq3s&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR15n6aDLNtzuEWNq3O09-Nh74dkR1V_nhntcmLwq0EuYzrBINYiMySW_qc
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> I should really get back to working on that accumulator OD problem now?
>
>
>
> WD  67 BJ8
>
>
>
>
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