[Healeys] Drove the Healey today?!

Wed Apr 22 19:20:37 MDT 2020

I see the lubricant debate continues unabated. My prediction is there will
be a cure for COVID-19 before there is a consensus on what is the best
lubricant to use in the engine, gear box and differential. I did some
research into the topic a year or so ago. The attached spreadsheet has a
summary for what was recommended 50 years ago compared to what is available
today. For the record this is what I use:

Engine - Castrol Classic XL 20W-50 (Note - Contains 800 ppm ZDDP)
Gearbox - Pennzoil GL-4 Manual Transmission oil 75W-90 (remember there is a
convention gear box in front of the OD gear oils unlike engine oils have
pressure additives)
Differential - Pennzoil GL-5 Axle and Gear Oil 80W-90

Let the debate continue!

Stay safe ... Harold

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Warren
Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2020 2:10 AM
To: gradea1 at charter.net
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Drove the Healey today?!

This is my understanding of Redline MT 90 transmission oil. Not for
differentials. I will return to ND 30 if this is a problem in my OD? My
Healey(original owner) has over 190,000 miles. Tranny and OD are untouched
until this year. Not really surprised with some wear. MT 90 has smoothed
shifting but leaks a lot! 

WD 67 BJ8

This is a great upgrade for your manual trans! This is one of the easiest
"mods" to do for your trans. Drain old fluid, pour this in. The trans will
shift quicker, feel less notchy, less wear on its components, etc!

.       Appropriate coefficient of friction for most manual transmission
synchronizers (other's synthetic gear oils are often too slippery for proper
synchro engagement)

.       Red Line offers lubricants to pinpoint nearly every transmission
application

.       MT-90 is not for use in differentials with hypoid gears

.       Excellent gear and synchro protection, balanced slipperiness for
easier shifting in cold climates

.       Excellent for high- and low-mile transmissions

.       Compatible with petroleums and other synthetics

.       75W90 GL-4 gear oil (similar to SAE 5W40/10W40 engine oil viscosity)

.       Offers quicker shifts, perfect synchronizer coefficient of friction

.       Safe for brass synchros, as it lacks the reactive sulfurs found in
most GL-5 oils that cause damage

.       High performance gear protection and longer synchro life

.       Eliminates notchy shifting, even when cold

.       Satisfies the gear oil viscosity requirements of 75W, 80W and motor
oil viscosities of SAE 40, 10W40, and 15W40

.       Recommended for GL-1, GL-3, and GL-4 applications, as well as where
most special synchromesh fluids are specified

Most manual transmissions take a little over 2 quarts of fluid.

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows
10

From: gradea1 at charter.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2020 1:10 AM
To: Warren <mailto:flyhihealey at gmail.com> 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: RE: [Healeys] Drove the Healey today?!

UH OH! that is your slugglish issue! I would drain that oil (for rear ends)
and replace it with the 30W ND. That rear end oil foams in the annullus and
plays hell with the spring pressure, passage thru the system and fast clutch
engagement.  Check it out on the web...that heavy fish oil is not for
British Trannys. If you put the heavy stuff in to stop leaks, that's not the
answer; neither is synthetic-too thin.The gearbox and OD were designed to
run on conventional oil...ancient as it may seem. Yes, a small air
compressor is enough of a blast to clear passages.You will probably hear the
clutch pistons engage if air is put on the valve opening.  If you remove the
spring, ball, and plunger with a magnet, you can then extract the valve and
run a small wire down the middle to clean it-then a blast of air-be careful
to not get any lint from a shop rag into the mix. Upon rebuilding a unit it
is "suggested"  to carefully enlarge the valve hole to 1mm (but cleanliness
is probably best solution).  The new pistons sold today, and made by
Overdrive Spares, (old Laycock group) are equipped with rubber o-rings. Good
that you replaced the tire bushings! Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "Warren" 
To: "gradea1 at charter.net"
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Sent: Tuesday April 21 2020 4:48:59PM
Subject: RE: RE: [Healeys] Drove the Healey today?!

Yes thanks for the tip. The problem is slow to engage. It was suggested
maybe accumulator O ring. Just did pull the check valve and all. Did seem
like dirty oil. I cleaned it all up. I'm already committed to extracting the
accumulator and piston but wanted to replace all the tranny mounts and
bushings which I did. Mounts were pretty squished and cracked.
Bushings(radiator saver)were fairly solid but were replaced.  They were the
original. Cleaning and degreasing as I go along.

If(?)it is the O ring or rings, I guess they are metal on the piston, I
might just spring for a uprated from Dennis Welch or AH spares has a combo
housing/piston both which have rubber O rings. 

Working my way to the extraction part. I want to use forced air through the
operating valve but I only have a small air compressor for tires. Some kind
of extraction tool would be helpful. (18G182) I have always changed tranny
oil regularly. Used ND 30 early on. Using MT 90 now for many years.  

Any and all suggestions appreciated.

WD  67 BJ8

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows
10

From: gradea1 at charter.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2020 6:14 PM
To: Warren <mailto:flyhihealey at gmail.com> 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Drove the Healey today?!

Warren- Don't know the OD problem you are experiencing, but suggest before
you tear into it, undo and clean the check valve and ball on the top right
side (if you haven't already done so). One small spot of dirt lodged in the
valve drilling can kill the hydraulics and make it seem like a bigger issue.
It may be worn parts, but, if not, this is an easy first test.  If it is
dirt; good idea to change oil and add fresh SAE 30W non detergent oil to the
unit. Regards, Hank, healeyhelper.com

-----------------------------------------

From: "Warren" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Tuesday April 21 2020 2:36:17PM
Subject: [Healeys] Drove the Healey today?!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5L7PfKtq3s
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5L7PfKtq3s&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR15n
6aDLNtzuEWNq3O09-Nh74dkR1V_nhntcmLwq0EuYzrBINYiMySW_qc>
&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR15n6aDLNtzuEWNq3O09-Nh74dkR1V_nhntcmLwq0EuYzrBI
NYiMySW_qc

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows
10

I should really get back to working on that accumulator OD problem now?

WD  67 BJ8

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20200422/1f7cb7ff/attachment.htm>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: Oil Comp.xls
Type: application/vnd.ms-excel
Size: 977920 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20200422/1f7cb7ff/attachment.xls>