[Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 12, Issue 340
Rick Brodeur
rick72b at comcast.net
Fri Oct 18 17:36:33 MDT 2019
In my experience as a restorer, the seat carpet should be cut so it is
free of the slides so that if (no, when) the carpet gets wet it can be
removed for drying. The seat carpet should not be held down by the seat
slides.
Rick
On 10/18/2019 2:00 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: seat installation (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
> 2. Re: seat installation (i erbs)
> 3. Re: Fwd: Down pipes (cjerryadams at yahoo.com)
> 4. Re: Fwd: Down pipes (i erbs)
> 5. Re: Down pipes (Bob Spidell)
> 6. Re: Fwd: Down pipes (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
> 7. Re: Fwd: Down pipes (Perry)
> 8. Re: Fwd: Down pipes (Larry Wendland)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 11:17:35 -0700
> From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
> To: "AH Mail List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] seat installation
> Message-ID: <7124B714FC5C4A299F08B5E111ECC02B at LeonardPCPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>
> Bob and Brad: Curious about this thread, I took a look at my seat installation. Without removing the seat, wood, and alleged metal plate, I can say that my assembly sits ON the carpet. The carpet and seat installation was done quite a while ago. I may have referenced the Moss video but can't remember. However, as a novice doing this for the first time, I would have used the "remove/replace in reverse order" system implying that that was how the original seat was installed. I can not see if there is a metal plate in there but I do not see a picture or listing of such a plate in the Moss catalog, Seat Frames, Foams, Fittings..
>
> (The Other) Len
> Fairfield, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob England
> To: bradh904 at gmail.com ; Healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2019 9:34 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] seat installation
>
>
> Brad
>
>
>
> The carpet is cut to accommodate the seat slides.
>
>
>
> The seat slides sit on a piece of wood packing, which sits on a metal strip, which sits on the floor sheet metal.
>
>
>
> I can send photos if you like.
>
>
>
> BobE
>
> ?65 BJ8
>
>
>
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Phillips
> Sent: October 17, 2019 9:04 AM
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] seat installation
>
>
>
> I am about to install my newly done seats over my new carpet and have a question. Do the seat slides lay on and bolt thru the rear carpet pieces or do they mount directly to the floor and the carpet cut around the slides?
>
> Brad Holden
>
> 67 BJ8
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
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> ------------------------------
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> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 13:25:16 -0700
> From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
> To: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
> Cc: AH Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] seat installation
> Message-ID:
> <CABXhz8_BhsR8dsLS8GnvA+eZN2s=Thk2HHMfhiWGVmF6HEQpZA at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Len,
> There should be both a wood strip and a metal plate. I decided to glue my
> carpet to my sound/heat material feeling it would shield against wet
> carpets rusting my floorboards and trans tunnel . I could not get the snaps
> to pull the carpet down smoothly and it just looked terrible. The factory
> would have cut the carpet around the metal and wood, so you could remove
> your carpet to dry it out when it got wet. Much cheaper than actually
> working to keep the cars from leaking in the rain.\:)
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> _______ _______
> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
> (_________________________)
> BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB [image: MG]
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
>
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> On Thu, Oct 17, 2019 at 12:35 PM Len and/or Marge Hartnett <
> thehartnetts at earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>> Bob and Brad: Curious about this thread, I took a look at my seat
>> installation. Without removing the seat, wood, and alleged metal plate, I
>> can say that my assembly sits ON the carpet. The carpet and
>> seat installation was done quite a while ago. I may have referenced the
>> Moss video but can't remember. However, as a novice doing this for the
>> first time, I would have used the "remove/replace in reverse order" system
>> implying that that was how the original seat was installed. I can not see
>> if there is a metal plate in there but I do not see a picture or listing of
>> such a plate in the Moss catalog, Seat Frames, Foams, Fittings..
>>
>> (The Other) Len
>> Fairfield, CA, USA
>> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> *From:* Bob England <engl at accesscomm.ca>
>> *To:* bradh904 at gmail.com ; Healeys at autox.team.net
>> *Sent:* Thursday, October 17, 2019 9:34 AM
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] seat installation
>>
>> Brad
>>
>>
>>
>> The carpet is cut to accommodate the seat slides.
>>
>>
>>
>> The seat slides sit on a piece of wood packing, which sits on a metal
>> strip, which sits on the floor sheet metal.
>>
>>
>>
>> I can send photos if you like.
>>
>>
>>
>> BobE
>>
>> ?65 BJ8
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Dave
>> Phillips
>> *Sent:* October 17, 2019 9:04 AM
>> *To:* Healeys at autox.team.net
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] seat installation
>>
>>
>>
>> I am about to install my newly done seats over my new carpet and have a
>> question. Do the seat slides lay on and bolt thru the rear carpet pieces or
>> do they mount directly to the floor and the carpet cut around the slides?
>>
>> Brad Holden
>>
>> 67 BJ8
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 18:19:14 -0500
> From: cjerryadams at yahoo.com
> To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> Cc: Healey List <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Down pipes
> Message-ID: <401F240E-7B2E-4AF5-9838-9C8AA28EF85F at yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Fred,
> Engine exhaust heat and engine vibration will eventually loose almost anything. Heat is biggest problem due to metal expansion. That?s why it is recommended that head bolts be retightened after run in after a few heat cycles. Thinner jam nuts are made for double nutting for just this case. Only tighten what torque spec says. The spec tables will take into account material grade, # of threads/inch and bolt dia. Torque specs are available in a number of places.
>
> Jerry Adams
> BN 2
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Oct 17, 2019, at 12:24 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>>
>>
>>
>> Begin forwarded message:
>>
>>> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>>> Date: October 17, 2019 at 8:21:17 AM PDT
>>> To: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com>
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Down pipes
>>>
>>> ?I tried everything: new nuts, SS studs and torquing the snot out of the nuts (snapping a stud in the process) and still they would work loose. Finally gave up and double-nutted with mild steel nuts with high-temp anti-seize on the studs; they haven?t loosened since.
>>>
>>>> On Oct 16, 2019, at 6:19 PM, Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> ?
>>>> Listers,
>>>>
>>>> Today, I had to tighten the 6 nuts on my exhaust down pipes. This is the second time in 2 years I have had to do this. What is causing the nuts to work loose? Each of the 6 studs from the exhaust manifolds has split lock washers and brass nuts on the down pipe flanges. Each time time I have tightened the nuts, I tighten them until the nuts squeak.
>>>>
>>>> What am I doing wrong and does anyone else have this issue? What do I need to do to fix this? The car is a 66 BJ8 with stock manifolds and down pipes.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for any advice, I'm stumped,
>>>>
>>>> Fred
>>>> 66 BJ8
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>
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>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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>> _______________________________________________
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 17:33:15 -0700
> From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
> To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Down pipes
> Message-ID:
> <CABXhz8-xGyN5MGVvq+cPvf=whDV+JcXWHf8tFW8gM_MCsAXHSA at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> How are your rubber mounts? Is your exhaust rattling a lot?
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
>
> On Thu, Oct 17, 2019, 10:24 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Begin forwarded message:
>>
>> *From:* Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> *Date:* October 17, 2019 at 8:21:17 AM PDT
>> *To:* Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com>
>> *Subject:* *Re: [Healeys] Down pipes*
>>
>> ?I tried everything: new nuts, SS studs and torquing the snot out of the
>> nuts (snapping a stud in the process) and still they would work loose.
>> Finally gave up and double-nutted with mild steel nuts with high-temp
>> anti-seize on the studs; they haven?t loosened since.
>>
>> On Oct 16, 2019, at 6:19 PM, Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> ?
>>
>> Listers,
>>
>>
>> Today, I had to tighten the 6 nuts on my exhaust down pipes. This is the
>> second time in 2 years I have had to do this. What is causing the nuts to
>> work loose? Each of the 6 studs from the exhaust manifolds has split lock
>> washers and brass nuts on the down pipe flanges. Each time time I have
>> tightened the nuts, I tighten them until the nuts squeak.
>>
>>
>> What am I doing wrong and does anyone else have this issue? What do I
>> need to do to fix this? The car is a 66 BJ8 with stock manifolds and down
>> pipes.
>>
>>
>> Thanks for any advice, I'm stumped,
>>
>>
>> Fred
>>
>> 66 BJ8
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
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>>
>>
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>>
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>>
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>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 18:14:56 -0700
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Down pipes
> Message-ID: <21db957a-2aea-fd79-2631-d5c62ed3a384 at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> "I always prefer the smooth but slightly bent ones (don't know the
> proper name for them)"
>
> Belleville?
>
>
> On 10/17/2019 12:04 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote:
>> Brass nuts are fairly soft so may be the split washers work there way
>> into the flanges of the nuts thus loosening them up. You may try SS
>> nuts or a steel washer between brass nut and spring washer.
>>
>> Another possibility is that the lock washer loses its tension because
>> it gets to hot.
>>
>> I am not a lover of split lock washers anyway as they damage the
>> surface of the nut and the item that is bolted down. I always prefer
>> the smooth but slightly bent ones (don't know the proper name for them)
>>
>>
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Op 17-10-2019 om 02:46 schreef Fred Wescoe:
>>> Listers,
>>>
>>> Today, I had to tighten the 6 nuts on my exhaust down pipes.? This is
>>> the second time?in 2 years I have had to do this.? What is causing
>>> the nuts to work loose?? Each of the 6 studs from the exhaust
>>> manifolds has split lock washers and brass nuts on the down pipe
>>> flanges.? Each time time I have tightened the nuts, I tighten them
>>> until the nuts squeak.
>>>
>>> What am I doing wrong and does anyone else have this issue?? What do
>>> I need to do to fix this?? The car is a 66 BJ8 with stock manifolds
>>> and down pipes.
>>>
>>> Thanks for any advice, I'm stumped,
>>>
>>> Fred
>>> 66 BJ8
>>>
>>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2019 04:23:59 +0000
> From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> To: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Down pipes
> Message-ID:
> <CY4PR07MB34320A1C4783DE0D31D69C03A56C0 at CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> The rubber mounts shouldn't cause a problem, but the flexible sections of the down pipes may have become too stiff to flex, in which case the relative motion of the engine to the chassis may be transmitted to the down pipe flanges.
>
> Also remember that heating the steel fasteners will tend to draw out the temper making them easier to stretch. If they have loosened before then they may have begun to stretch when you torqued them.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ________________________________
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
> Sent: Friday, October 18, 2019 12:33 AM
> To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Down pipes
>
> How are your rubber mounts? Is your exhaust rattling a lot?
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
>
> On Thu, Oct 17, 2019, 10:24 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>>
> Date: October 17, 2019 at 8:21:17 AM PDT
> To: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com<mailto:fredwescoe at gmail.com>>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Down pipes
>
> ?I tried everything: new nuts, SS studs and torquing the snot out of the nuts (snapping a stud in the process) and still they would work loose. Finally gave up and double-nutted with mild steel nuts with high-temp anti-seize on the studs; they haven?t loosened since.
>
> On Oct 16, 2019, at 6:19 PM, Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com<mailto:fredwescoe at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> ?
> Listers,
>
> Today, I had to tighten the 6 nuts on my exhaust down pipes. This is the second time in 2 years I have had to do this. What is causing the nuts to work loose? Each of the 6 studs from the exhaust manifolds has split lock washers and brass nuts on the down pipe flanges. Each time time I have tightened the nuts, I tighten them until the nuts squeak.
>
> What am I doing wrong and does anyone else have this issue? What do I need to do to fix this? The car is a 66 BJ8 with stock manifolds and down pipes.
>
> Thanks for any advice, I'm stumped,
>
> Fred
> 66 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2019 09:02:57 -0400
> From: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com>
> To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Down pipes
> Message-ID: <mailman.6.1571421602.24551.healeys at autox.team.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Bill brings up something that I have thought about occasionally over the last 50 years, why is there a section of flex pipe used in the original production of Austin Healey?s? I mention production because I?m not sure what was on the first prototype cars. Todays stainless or mesh type flex pipe does actually move even after the pipe has ?aged? a bit. Not so much for the older mild steel versions. Once they take a set (rust) there is not much movement, but usually breakage.
> My take on the flex pipe on Austin Healey is that it makes it a lot easier to fit the pieces together on the car. Exhaust manifold outlet(s) are fixed points. Same with the inlet(s} to the muffler. To get a perfectly parallel set of down pipes outlets into the muffler and still fit the exhaust manifold would be hard without the flex pipe sections. Note that the factory welded the two tail pipes together on the later 100-Six/early 3000.
> OK I?m going back to sleep. Perhaps I?ll dream about why the oil drips out of my gearbox/OD even with fresh ?O? rings?.
> Perry
>
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>
> From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
> Sent: Friday, October 18, 2019 12:50 AM
> To: i erbs; Bob Spidell
> Cc: Ahealey help
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Down pipes
>
> The rubber mounts shouldn't cause a problem, but the flexible sections of the down pipes may have become too stiff to flex, in which case the relative motion of the engine to the chassis may be transmitted to the down pipe flanges.
>
>
>
>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2019 13:46:02 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Larry Wendland <bighealey3k at aim.com>
> To: healeyguy at aol.com, healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Down pipes
> Message-ID: <945357241.4642079.1571406362438 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> Perry, After all that my head hurts. LOL I agree the flex pipes were to aid in fitment of the forward portion of the exhaust system when new and it takes a set after a period of use and no longer flexible.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Oct 18, 2019 9:21 am
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Down pipes
>
>
>
> Bill brings up something that I have thought about occasionally over the last 50 years, why is there a section of flex pipe used in the original production of Austin Healey?s?? I mention production because I?m not sure what was on the first prototype cars. Todays stainless or mesh type flex pipe does actually move even after the pipe has ?aged? a bit. Not so much for the older mild steel versions. Once they take a set (rust) there is not much movement, but usually breakage.
> My take on the flex pipe on Austin Healey is that it makes it a lot easier to fit the pieces together on the car. Exhaust manifold outlet(s) are fixed points. Same with the inlet(s} to the muffler. To get a perfectly parallel set of down pipes outlets into the muffler and still fit the exhaust manifold would be hard without the flex pipe sections. Note that the factory welded the two tail pipes together on the later 100-Six/early 3000.
> OK I?m going back to sleep.? Perhaps I?ll dream about why the oil drips out of my gearbox/OD even with fresh ?O? rings?.
> Perry
> ?
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> ?
>
> From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
> Sent: Friday, October 18, 2019 12:50 AM
> To: i erbs; Bob Spidell
> Cc: Ahealey help
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Down pipes
>
>
> ?
> The rubber mounts shouldn't cause a problem, but the flexible sections of the down pipes may have become too stiff to flex, in which case the relative motion of the engine to the chassis may be transmitted to the down pipe flanges.
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