[Healeys] Ignition Circuit
Kees Oudesluijs
coudesluijs at chello.nl
Sun May 26 14:44:39 MDT 2019
I do not think the generator will deliver more than about 25-30A at high
revs. on a good day. A period alternator will give you 32-36A at
moderate revs.
The fan will normally only be switched on in dense traffic at low speed,
when a generator is not producing many amps. An alternator would do
slightly better.
Both an alternator would deliver sufficiently and a generator better
than that at normal speeds unless there are other accessories drawing a
lot of power: e.g. head lights, spotlights, heater fan, windscreen
wipers, modern high power radio, AC etc.
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 26-5-2019 om 22:11 schreef Michael Oritt:
> Make that 7 amps--not 78....
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 4:10 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com
> <mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> Patrick--
>
> If, as you say, the car is always in a state of discharge when the
> fan is running I would be concerned for the state of your charging
> circuit. I assume you have a generator if you have an ammeter and
> I believe the generators on Healeys are rated at 30 amps which
> should be more than sufficient to keep up with the draw of an
> auxiliary fan: the SPAL site rates their fans as drawing no more
> than 78 amps (https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm).
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sat, May 25, 2019 at 4:28 AM Kees Oudesluijs
> <coudesluijs at chello.nl <mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl>> wrote:
>
> Nothing to worry about. The fan is drawing a lot of amps which
> will result in a negative charge hence the ign. light is
> coming on, probably only when idling. Before you most likely
> had the fan wired directly from the main circuit in series
> with the Amp. meter and not through the ignition circuit so
> the light might not show. You could operating the fan using a
> relay switched on by the under dash switch but getting the
> main current from the battery. It will not solve the negative
> charge but it may avoid the light coming on.
>
> Perhaps the fan is a bit to powerful and drawing more Amps
> than necessary. However the fan is only on for a very short
> while unless in prolonged very heavy traffic and on long and
> slow steep inclines
>
> The best way is to revert to the old situation with the
> thermo-switch (wired through the ignition circuit and use the
> manual switch as an override switch so when you switch of the
> ignition the fan will not work. These should switch a relay
> with the main current coming directly from the main circuit
> with the Ampmeter
>
> Use a thermo-switch tot cuts in at say 90-95°C and cuts out at
> about 5-10°C over the opening temperature of the thermostat.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 25-5-2019 om 09:17 schreef Patrick & Caroline Quinn:
>>
>> Hello
>>
>> Seeking advice from those who understand automotive electrics.
>>
>> My real Healey has an electric fan in front of the radiator
>> that was controlled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably
>> well, but drew quite a bit of power but nothing concerning.
>> When on, the amp gauge needle would always hover in the
>> negative.
>>
>> Personally I don’t like thermo switches, so the fan has now
>> been wired direct and operated by a discreet switch under the
>> dash. Power is taken directly from the outgoing side of the
>> ignition switch so that the fan only comes on when the
>> ignition is on along with the specific switch.
>>
>> Works well, but now when the fan goes on the ignition light
>> is illuminated and will not go out.
>>
>> Does that mean that the ignition circuit doesn’t like what I
>> have done? I am thinking of taking the power direct from the
>> incoming side of the ignition switch so that the fan is
>> powered direct from the battery. Would that work?
>>
>> Any electrical whizzes out there?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Patrick Quinn
>>
>> Blue Mountains, Australia
>>
>>
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