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<p>I do not think the generator will deliver more than about 25-30A
at high revs. on a good day. A period alternator will give you
32-36A at moderate revs. <br>
</p>
<p>The fan will normally only be switched on in dense traffic at low
speed, when a generator is not producing many amps. An alternator
would do slightly better.</p>
<p>Both an alternator would deliver sufficiently and a generator
better than that at normal speeds unless there are other
accessories drawing a lot of power: e.g. head lights, spotlights,
heater fan, windscreen wipers, modern high power radio, AC etc.</p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 26-5-2019 om 22:11 schreef Michael
Oritt:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAPTa0B6D4y4+m-TB0L5zUi7c7opPYUcu=FjfXXQ2k1p6R-NwGw@mail.gmail.com">
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<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Make that 7
amps--not 78....</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Best--Michael
Oritt</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 4:10
PM Michael Oritt <<a href="mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Patrick--</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">If,
as you say, the car is always in a state of discharge when
the fan is running I would be concerned for the state of
your charging circuit. I assume you have a generator if
you have an ammeter and </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">I
believe the generators on Healeys are rated at 30 amps
which should be more than sufficient to keep up with the
draw of an auxiliary fan: the SPAL site rates their fans
as drawing no more than 78 amps (<a
href="https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm</a>). </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--Michael
Oritt</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sat, May 25, 2019 at
4:28 AM Kees Oudesluijs <<a
href="mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">coudesluijs@chello.nl</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<p>Nothing to worry about. The fan is drawing a lot of
amps which will result in a negative charge hence the
ign. light is coming on, probably only when idling.
Before you most likely had the fan wired directly from
the main circuit in series with the Amp. meter and not
through the ignition circuit so the light might not
show. You could operating the fan using a relay
switched on by the under dash switch but getting the
main current from the battery. It will not solve the
negative charge but it may avoid the light coming on.</p>
<p>Perhaps the fan is a bit to powerful and drawing more
Amps than necessary. However the fan is only on for a
very short while unless in prolonged very heavy
traffic and on long and slow steep inclines<br>
</p>
<p>The best way is to revert to the old situation with
the thermo-switch (wired through the ignition circuit
and use the manual switch as an override switch so
when you switch of the ignition the fan will not work.
These should switch a relay with the main current
coming directly from the main circuit with the
Ampmeter<br>
</p>
<p>Use a thermo-switch tot cuts in at say 90-95°C and
cuts out at about 5-10°C over the opening temperature
of the thermostat.</p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div
class="gmail-m_-1809673902067552239gmail-m_6620321412179458365gmail-m_-1022862323478581469moz-cite-prefix">Op
25-5-2019 om 09:17 schreef Patrick & Caroline
Quinn:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div
class="gmail-m_-1809673902067552239gmail-m_6620321412179458365gmail-m_-1022862323478581469WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Hello</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Seeking advice from those
who understand automotive electrics.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>My real Healey has an
electric fan in front of the radiator that was
controlled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably
well, but drew quite a bit of power but nothing
concerning. When on, the amp gauge needle would
always hover in the negative. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Personally I don’t like
thermo switches, so the fan has now been wired
direct and operated by a discreet switch under
the dash. Power is taken directly from the
outgoing side of the ignition switch so that the
fan only comes on when the ignition is on along
with the specific switch.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Works well, but now when
the fan goes on the ignition light is
illuminated and will not go out.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Does that mean that the
ignition circuit doesn’t like what I have done?
I am thinking of taking the power direct from
the incoming side of the ignition switch so that
the fan is powered direct from the battery.
Would that work?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Any electrical whizzes
out there?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Thanks</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Patrick Quinn</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Blue Mountains, Australia
</span></p>
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