[Healeys] Front Shock Camber Plates
Perry
healeyguy at aol.com
Fri Jun 28 18:47:01 MDT 2019
Bob
If memory serves me correctly you will not have much trouble with the nuts. Captive is not what I would call the nuts used to secure the shocks and shock buffer to the top plate. There is not a cage or spot welds on the flats of the nuts. I believe they are just resistance welded to the bottom surface of the top plate and the nuts will part ways with the plate fairly easily.
Before someone figured out to adjust the camber with these plates we used to fix the stripped or missing shock mounting nuts by inserting a ½ inch steel plate with predrilled and threaded holes in the same location. It was easier than cutting off the entire top plate and rewelding it. Only had to cut the outboard edge off, insert plate and reweld.
This was a long time ago, like 50 years. Feeling a bit old right now!
Perry
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Friday, June 28, 2019 8:09 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Front Shock Camber Plates
I recently acquired a set of these:
https://tomsimport.com/category/new-parts/front-shock-plate/
I'm not in immediate danger of installing them yet, but I'm starting to
plan the operation. I'll cut off the outer part of the mounts clean,
elongate the holes, install the plates and weld the end sections back
on. My question, for anyone who's (successfully) done this--not
necessarily the welding part--is: How did you remove the captive nuts
and any remnants of the welds that held them? It seems to me, if you
don't clean off the welds then then plates won't sit flat on the
underside of the shock mounts, and strength would be diminished. I have
no proof, but intuitively it seems these plates would strengthen the
mounts, as the tension load on the four bolts would be spread across the
plates--and a greater area of the mounts--instead of just being applied
to the captive nuts.
Bob
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