[Healeys] Ignition Circuit

[Per Schoerner]

Patrick
Ideally you should control a relay by that switch, and connect the relay directly to the battery and the fan. 

Per

Skickat från min iPhone

> 2 juni 2019 kl. 11:10 skrev Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>:
> 
> Greetings
>  
> All fixed and running as I wanted it to.
>  
> Many thanks to everyone who took the trouble to write and let me know their thoughts. Much appreciated!
>  
> As much as realise that they work, I wanted to remove the thermo switch control of the electric fan. Remember this is a real Healey that dates from 1948 and the under-bonnet switch with its wires and capillary tube just looked out of place and plain ugly. What I eventually did was to run a power wire from the input of the combined ignition/light switch, through an inline fuse to a switch and on to the fan which is earthed at the side of the radiator.
>  
> Works well and does not impact on the ignition light. It does of course send the ammeter needle way into the negative, but it did that before when it was controlled by the thermo switch.
>  
> I managed to hide the wires so under the bonnet looks like it did when it left the Donald Healey Motor Company in 1948.
>  
> Hoo Roo
>  
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>  
> From: Michael Salter [mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com] 
> Sent: Saturday, 25 May 2019 9:09 PM
> To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition Circuit
>  
> Hi Patrick,  I would agree that using the fused connection on the "ignition switched" side of the fuse block as the source would be a good idea. The ignition switch is not fuse protected so by using that as a source you do run a risk of "letting the smoke out" should a short to ground occur in your fan system. 
> You may find that the electrical demands of your fan are more than the fuses can handle as the system was not designed with heavy continuous loads in mind. 
> To circumvent that issue you could use the unfused side of the "ignition switched" section of the fuse block as the source and install an "in line" fuse to protect the fan circuit. 
> I cannot overemphasize the importance of protecting the fan circuit with a fuse, it very easy to damage a wiring harness and replacing one is a major undertaking. 
>  
> M
>  
> On Sat, May 25, 2019, 3:17 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn, <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
> Hello
>  Seeking advice from those who understand automotive electrics.
>  My real Healey has an electric fan in front of the radiator that was controlled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably well, but drew quite a bit of power but nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge needle would always hover in the negative.
>  Personally I don’t like thermo switches, so the fan has now been wired direct and operated by a discreet switch under the dash. Power is taken directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so that the fan only comes on when the ignition is on along with the specific switch.
>  Works well, but now when the fan goes on the ignition light is illuminated and will not go out.
>  Does that mean that the ignition circuit doesn’t like what I have done? I am thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side of the ignition switch so that the fan is powered direct from the battery. Would that work?
>  Any electrical whizzes out there?
>  Thanks
>  Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> 
> 
>   			 			
> 
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20190603/a3b69d24/attachment.html>