[Healeys] Rear wheel cylinders on a BJ8

Henry A. Morrison dos_gusanos at msn.com
Wed Aug 28 14:06:32 MDT 2019


If you increase the diameter of your rear cylinders, you increase the amount of fluid required to move the shoes the same distance, so your master cylinder must travel further, more pedal travel, and would probably make the problem worse.  Increase the size of your master cylinder and reduce pedal travel and probably the pressure in the system given the same pedal force application.  I like minimal pedal travel, and like feeling like pressing against the wall to get the vehicle to stop.

Sincerely

Henry Morrison


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________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2019 5:23 AM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear wheel cylinders on a BJ8

Seriously,
So all you men who have fitted rear disc brakes to your Healey, have only ever done this in order to "reduce" your rear braking effort?
To make your rear brakes "less efficient" than they already are?
And you've fitted Discs to "increase" your unsprung weight, and upset the balance of your car?
Seriously?
Sincerely, this group used to share ideas.
Now, instead of people saying "nah, tried that, but I locked rear wheels" it's a bunch of hypothetical Wikipedia answers.
So I will ask again.
Has anyone else changed their rear wheel cylinders on a 3000 from 3/4 inch to 7/8 inch?
If yes - I'd love to hear your feedback.
If you've fitted disk brakes on your Jensen Healey, or what ever - I'm not interested in your comments. Im not interested in the theory - I'm interested in the practice and real results from on the road.
Too much bullshit internet "searching" is infiltrating this list. I've always only answered when I've actually done something.
Armchair experts who google answers and Have now experience in the question I've asked need to pull their head in - that's you Kees.
Has anyone else ever changed their rear wheel cylinders from 3/4 inch to 7/8 inch?
If you have? I'd love to hear from you.
If you haven't, well, I don't really care!
Yes. I'm pissed off.
People who have the answer - from experience- don't answer when 4 others respond.
I'm just pissed off
A lot going on.
Chris

On 28 Aug 2019, at 2:29 am, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com<mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>> wrote:

Have to agree with Kees on this one.
We have a brake bias control on AHX12 and I can certainly attest to the fact that when the conditions change to "wet" removing a lot of rear braking is absolutely essential to prevent the car from swapping ends.
As most road cars don't have adjustable brake bias I would be very careful in trying to increase the rear braking.
When braking into a corner the last thing you want is the rear end coming around, particularly in the wet.

M

On Tue, Aug 27, 2019 at 12:09 PM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl<mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl>> wrote:
Whatch out driving in the rain as the rear brakes will lock the rear
wheels much quicker than with the smaller pistons.Rear brakes are only
providing a small portion of the total brake force.

Kees Oudesluijs

Op 27-8-2019 om 18:04 schreef Chris Dimmock:
> Hi Men
>
> I just did. Sick of the rear brakes doing nothing. Freeloaders!!
> Yes, no problem with seized wheel cylinders, no problem with the flexible hose - just bugger all wear on the rear linings.
> I'll let you know how it goes on my BJ8
> Best
> Chris
>
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