[Healeys] Refinishing dashboard wood

Bruce Peters rv9aplane at gmail.com
Sun Nov 4 17:30:03 MST 2018


Thanks for all the replies guys!

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 4, 2018, at 11:00 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> 
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> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. MORE:  Lucas electronic voltage regulator (Alex)
>   2. How to keep the door open (Albert Seminatore)
>   3. Re: How to keep the door open (Michael Oritt)
>   4. Re: How to keep the door open (goldengt)
>   5. Re: How to keep the door open (John Spaur)
>   6. Re: How to keep the door open (Michael Salter)
>   7. Refinishing dashboard wood (Bruce Peters)
>   8. Re: Refinishing dashboard wood (Kees Oudesluijs)
>   9. Re: Refinishing dashboard wood (insidedim at aol.com)
>  10. Re: How to keep the door open (Warren)
>  11. Re: Refinishing dashboard wood (Tom)
>  12. Re: Stuff!! (dwflagg at juno.com)
>  13. Re: Refinishing dashboard wood (Stephen Hutchings)
>  14. Re: Healey 100-4 timing (Bob Spidell)
>  15. Re: Refinishing dashboard wood (glemon at neb.rr.com)
>  16. Re: How to keep the door open (Albert Seminatore)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2018 16:23:44 -0400
> From: Alex <alexmm at roadrunner.com>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] MORE:  Lucas electronic voltage regulator
> Message-ID: <7e4651a6-34d7-ff4a-66ea-f76d3ef3834a at roadrunner.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
> 
> While a solid-state regulator has no moving parts, and may provide 
> tighter regulation than a classic old-fashioned mechanical regulator, 
> keep in mind that the components on the solid-state circuit board are 
> subject to shock, vibration, and temperature extremes.
> 
> The substrate itself (the printed circuit board) is also subject to 
> these factors. Under the bonnet is a hostile environment for electronics.
> 
> From the photos, it's clear the integrated circuits are small-outline 
> surface-mount devices. The pins on these ICs are very small and on a 
> fine pitch (close together).?? Also, ICs are rated in three categories: 
> 0-70 degrees C, -25 to +85 degrees C., and -55 degrees C to +125 degrees C.
> 
> These three categories are dubbed "commercial," industrial," and 
> "military," respectively. Which temperature-range devices are used on 
> these boards?
> 
> Also, notice the sub-board, which looks like a plug-in. Separable 
> interconnects are also subject to failure due to oxidation and vibration.
> 
> Just some thoughts.
> 
> == Alex in Maine, 1960 BT7, "The Blue Mainie"
> 
> 
>> On 11/3/2018 11:57 AM, Bruce Steele wrote:
>> 
>> Thanks, Chris.? I appreciate all the input. ?I received the diagnosis 
>> on my generator Friday, and I?m going to proceed with having it 
>> rebuilt.? I?m also going to contact Dean Sprague of Vintage 
>> Mecha-Tronics (www.vintagemechatronics.com 
>> <http://www.vintagemechatronics.com>) this week regarding their 
>> electronic regulator.? The quality of the Lucas electronic unit is 
>> suspect based on the comments received, which are echoed in the 
>> information on Mecha-Tronics website.
>> 
>> Bruce Steele
>> 
>> Brea, CA
>> 
>> 1960 BN7
>> 
>> *From:*Chris Masucci [mailto:cmmasucci at gmail.com]
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 31, 2018 4:19 AM
>> *To:* healey.nut at gmail.com
>> *Cc:* healeybruce at roadrunner.com; Healey List <Healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Lucas electronic voltage regulator
>> 
>> In my opinion, whether you need more current supply or not isn't the 
>> primary reason to go with an alternator or an electronic voltage 
>> regulator.? Either will provide a more stable voltage to the system, 
>> which is good for anything electrical including points and coils, 
>> overdrive solenoids, fuel pumps and especially electronic ignitions 
>> like pertronix etc..? If you have an electronic tach like on the later 
>> cars, it will be more stable too and happier with a cleaner power 
>> source. I would use the electronic regulator if you decide to rebuild 
>> the generator.
>> 
>> Chris
>> 
>> On Wed, Oct 31, 2018 at 6:08 AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com 
>> <mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com>> wrote:
>> 
>>    I would just rebuild the genny. are you planning on running a 300
>>    amp stereo system in your car or something?
>> 
>>    On Wed, Oct 31, 2018 at 9:13 AM Bruce Steele
>>    <healeybruce at roadrunner.com <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com>>
>>    wrote:
>> 
>>        Somewhat related to my prior post.? Should I decide to rebuild
>>        the generator, anyone have experience with the electronic
>>        voltage regulator?
>> 
>>        https://www.bpnorthwest.com/voltage-regulator-digital-lucas-screw-in-terminal.html
>> 
>>        Bruce Steele
>> 
>>        Brea, CA
>> 
>>        1960 BN7
>> 
>>        *From:*Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net
>>        <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>]
>>        *Sent:* Tuesday, October 30, 2018 11:05 AM
>>        *To:* Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com
>>        <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com>>; Healeys at autox.team.net
>>        <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>        *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Accuspark Dynamator
>> 
>>        Cheaper to get your generator rebuilt.? Re-install, then drive
>>        it.? Not a big deal.
>> 
>>        Mike MacLean
>> 
>>        On Tuesday, October 30, 2018 7:36 AM, Bruce Steele
>>        <healeybruce at roadrunner.com
>>        <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com>> wrote:
>> 
>>        Hi, all. My generator failed and I'm considering my options.
>>        Anyone have any input on the AccuSpark Dynamator (which is an
>>        alternator in a dynamo case)? Peter Rosesinstalled one
>>        recently, and suggested I consider it. The north American
>>        distributor is Brit Bits in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada. I'd
>>        prefer retaining the traditional look of the generator over an
>>        alternator. Of course, rebuilding the generator is an option,
>>        but my car is not concours so that is not really a
>>        consideration. Certainly the higher output of the alternator
>>        (the Dynamator is 45 amps) is a significant improvement to
>>        drive all those electrical components on our Healeys.
>> 
>>        Bruce Steele
>> 
>>        Brea, CA
>> 
>>        1960 BN7
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
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> 
> 
> 
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> ------------------------------
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> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2018 13:46:43 -0700
> From: Albert Seminatore <alsemus1 at gmail.com>
> To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
> Message-ID:
>    <CAEEMJ+3Q0fPv4uZ6J=cZ4bD0ip4bP4jGWTBR_8eQkAtz=DrMxw at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I have a BT7 whose drivers door won't stay open any more.  The passenger
> door is ok.
> I have tried tightening the friction washer but it wont do any good.  There
> is a new "friction washer" installed but it doesn't do any good either.
> The metal pieces have been "polished" over the years and are VERY smooth -
> like glass smooth.
> 
> What do other folks do to recover the friction need to keep the door open?
> ...................   Al
> 
> -- 
> Albert Seminatore
> Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
> eMail:  alsemus1 at gmail.com
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2018 18:41:29 -0400
> From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> To: Albert Seminatore <alsemus1 at gmail.com>
> Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
> Message-ID:
>    <CAPTa0B647mjiSPv_rOVMJMtPuCp4_fFRLtKSYQ0fXiG_wayXcw at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Buy a replacement door check.
> 
> Best--Michael Oritt
> 
>> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 6:07 PM Albert Seminatore <alsemus1 at gmail.com wrote:
>> 
>> I have a BT7 whose drivers door won't stay open any more.  The passenger
>> door is ok.
>> I have tried tightening the friction washer but it wont do any good.
>> There is a new "friction washer" installed but it doesn't do any good
>> either.  The metal pieces have been "polished" over the years and are VERY
>> smooth - like glass smooth.
>> 
>> What do other folks do to recover the friction need to keep the door open?
>> ...................   Al
>> 
>> --
>> Albert Seminatore
>> Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
>> eMail:  alsemus1 at gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
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>> 
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2018 16:21:10 -0700
> From: goldengt <goldengt at cal.net>
> To: Albert Seminatore <alsemus1 at gmail.com>, Healey List
>    <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
> Message-ID: <20181103232146.B93971A25CF at mail.cal.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> The threads are probably stripped on the stud or nut or both. You could weld in a new stud or use a smaller die to cut new thread and a smaller nut. Get the left hand thread ztuff from McMaster Carr on line.Ken Freese?Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> -------- Original message --------From: Albert Seminatore <alsemus1 at gmail.com> Date: 11/3/18  1:46 PM  (GMT-08:00) To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: [Healeys] How to keep the door open I have a BT7 whose drivers door won't stay open any more.? The passenger door is ok.I have tried tightening the friction washer but it wont do any good.? There is a new "friction washer" installed but it doesn't do any good either.? The metal pieces have been "polished" over the years and are VERY smooth - like glass smooth.What do other folks do to recover the friction need to keep the door open?...................?? Al-- Albert SeminatoreMountain Falls, Pahrump, NVeMail:? alsemus1 at gmail.com
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2018 16:33:47 -0700
> From: "John Spaur" <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
> To: "'Albert Seminatore'" <alsemus1 at gmail.com>, "'Healey List'"
>    <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
> Message-ID: <000001d473cd$abac4230$0304c690$@sbcglobal.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Are the screws stripped? One is a left hand screw.
> 
> 
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Albert Seminatore
> Sent: Saturday, November 3, 2018 1:47 PM
> To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
> 
> 
> 
> I have a BT7 whose drivers door won't stay open any more.  The passenger door is ok.
> 
> I have tried tightening the friction washer but it wont do any good.  There is a new "friction washer" installed but it doesn't do any good either.  The metal pieces have been "polished" over the years and are VERY smooth - like glass smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> What do other folks do to recover the friction need to keep the door open?
> 
> ..................   Al
> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> Albert Seminatore
> 
> Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
> 
> eMail:  alsemus1 at gmail.com <mailto:alsemus1 at gmail.com> 
> 
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2018 20:03:31 -0400
> From: Michael Salter <michael.salter at gmail.com>
> To: goldengt <goldengt at cal.net>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net, Albert Seminatore <alsemus1 at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
> Message-ID:
>    <CAB3i7LLRP-Ffngfq6G2SS0pBp38TTxypoh1WRnBo+oQbz9u8Kg at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Another source for left hand threads is turnbuckles but as I recall the
> left door uses a right hand thread.
> 
> M
> 
>> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 7:48 PM goldengt <goldengt at cal.net wrote:
>> 
>> The threads are probably stripped on the stud or nut or both. You could
>> weld in a new stud or use a smaller die to cut new thread and a smaller
>> nut. Get the left hand thread ztuff from McMaster Carr on line.
>> Ken Freese
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>> 
>> -------- Original message --------
>> From: Albert Seminatore <alsemus1 at gmail.com>
>> Date: 11/3/18 1:46 PM (GMT-08:00)
>> To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
>> 
>> I have a BT7 whose drivers door won't stay open any more.  The passenger
>> door is ok.
>> I have tried tightening the friction washer but it wont do any good.
>> There is a new "friction washer" installed but it doesn't do any good
>> either.  The metal pieces have been "polished" over the years and are VERY
>> smooth - like glass smooth.
>> 
>> What do other folks do to recover the friction need to keep the door open?
>> ...................   Al
>> 
>> --
>> Albert Seminatore
>> Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
>> eMail:  alsemus1 at gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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>> 
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2018 20:12:53 -0700
> From: Bruce Peters <rv9aplane at gmail.com>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Refinishing dashboard wood
> Message-ID: <C7D368B4-01C3-47A8-ACA2-36FE2FCAD896 at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=utf-8
> 
> Hi all,
> My dashboard wood?s clear coat is cracked all over. I?m wondering what type of finish this is and what i should use to recoat it after I?ve sanded it all off. Also, what stain can I use on the wood since I?m likely to have to do some restaining? My car is a 67 BJ8. Thanks in advance for the advice.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 06:40:59 +0100
> From: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinishing dashboard wood
> Message-ID: <93e20db1-d53e-ad15-fdc4-ac5428b4bea3 at chello.nl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> I have done this on a TR6. The lacquer was probably epoxy as it did not 
> respond to solvents, so I had to sand away the coat. Be very careful as 
> the wood surface may be a very thin veneer easily damaged by sanding. 
> use 400 grade. I used many coats of boat lacquer to finish the dash to 
> build up before sanding the top coat smooth, first with 600, followed by 
> 2000 and a cutting compound to achieve a highly glossy finish.
> 
> Not difficult but very tedious.
> 
> Kees Oudesluijs
> 
> Op 4-11-2018 om 04:12 schreef Bruce Peters:
>> Hi all,
>> My dashboard wood?s clear coat is cracked all over. I?m wondering what type of finish this is and what i should use to recoat it after I?ve sanded it all off. Also, what stain can I use on the wood since I?m likely to have to do some restaining? My car is a 67 BJ8. Thanks in advance for the advice.
>> 
>> Bruce
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
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> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 9
> Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 03:54:35 -0500
> From: insidedim at aol.com
> To: rv9aplane at gmail.com, healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinishing dashboard wood
> Message-ID: <166ddee534b-1ec0-3b40 at webjas-vae144.srv.aolmail.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> In the early 90's I acquired a BJ8 that had been abandoned for 8 yrs. that had been sitting outside with a hole in the convertible top.  Someone had stolen the glove box side, presumably for the lock, so that piece wasn't there.  The gauge side was there but badly cracked like yours so I removed the finish back to the plywood.  I purchased some marine plywood and made a new glove box side and bought some bookmatched burl walnut veneers to cover both pieces.  I finished the new veneers with maybe a dozen or more coats of marine varnish, sanded between coats and finished with carnauba wax.  The result was spectacular.  Good luck.
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Peters <rv9aplane at gmail.com>
> To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Nov 4, 2018 12:23 am
> Subject: [Healeys] Refinishing dashboard wood
> 
> Hi all,My dashboard wood?s clear coat is cracked all over. I?m wondering what type of finish this is and what i should use to recoat it after I?ve sanded it all off. Also, what stain can I use on the wood since I?m likely to have to do some restaining? My car is a 67 BJ8. Thanks in advance for the advice.BruceSent from my iPad_______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation  $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys@autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/insidedim@aol.com
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 10
> Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 05:28:18 -0500
> From: Warren <flyhihealey at gmail.com>
> To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
> Message-ID: <5bdec98a.1c69fb81.62a7d.2a5d at mx.google.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Just went through this. For the ?nth time over my 51 year ownership. Michael Salter?s idea of the turnbuckle threads and taller nuts to grab more threads worked very well. New wood discs. It too finally stripped and I 
> chased the threads and tried a new nut but the threads would not hold. Would not bite low enough on good threads.
> Time to just buy a new check system($70 +\-). I already have 2 sets of these(also non workable) things from donor doors. I must say the passenger door works just fine. Always the driver door, for obvious reason, is problematic. One more try before I pulled out the credit card. Found a thin cork washer, half the thickness of the wood one and similar diameter, and it allowed the new nut to just grab those few good threads at the bottom. It worked! At least for now?
> 
> WD  67BJ8
> 
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> 
> From: Michael Oritt
> Sent: Saturday, November 3, 2018 7:23 PM
> To: Albert Seminatore
> Cc: Austin Healey
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
> 
> Buy a replacement door check.
> 
> Best--Michael Oritt?
> 
> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 6:07 PM Albert Seminatore <alsemus1 at gmail.com wrote:
> I have a BT7 whose drivers door won't stay open any more.? The passenger door is ok.
> I have tried tightening the friction washer but it wont do any good.? There is a new "friction washer" installed but it doesn't do any good either.? The metal pieces have been "polished" over the years and are VERY smooth - like glass smooth.
> 
> What do other folks do to recover the friction need to keep the door open?
> ...................?? Al
> 
> -- 
> Albert Seminatore
> Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
> eMail:? alsemus1 at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 11
> Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 08:26:13 -0500
> From: Tom <ah3000me at gmail.com>
> To: rv9aplane at gmail.com
> Cc: Healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinishing dashboard wood
> Message-ID:
>    <CANQM1PLQS4+DC0dxzK2nNtOt2fKBWC5oYswjkATJ7QZcBymbsA at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Bruce,
> 
> I used a single-edged razor blade to carefully slip under a cracked edge
> and lift the old clear coat off. YMMV.  After I removed the old clear coat,
> I lightly sanded it with a very fine grit.  Other folks on this list have
> said the veneer is very thin, so don't overdo sanding.
> 
> After sanding I wiped a mix of mahogany/walnut Minwax oil-based stain on
> the veneer.  I added very little color to it.  If you're going for a
> concours-quality car, staining may or may not be the best thing to do.
> 
> I used Envirotex Lite for the new finish.  Several folks on this list
> recommend it, and it worked very well.  It's a heavy epoxy that self levels:
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CEMU3I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> It takes 2 or 3 days to fully cure, so finding a dust-free environment is
> important.  After it cures, it's dried to a high gloss and smooth finish.
> You won't need to sand it.
> 
> This is the best instructions I found for mixing it:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70bOH2j2vvs      Their directions seem a
> little fastidious, but if you get an incomplete mix, the results will be a
> mess.     There are lots of videos about applying the epoxy, too.
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> - Tom
> 
>> On Sun, Nov 4, 2018 at 12:06 AM Bruce Peters <rv9aplane at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi all,
>> My dashboard wood?s clear coat is cracked all over. I?m wondering what
>> type of finish this is and what i should use to recoat it after I?ve sanded
>> it all off. Also, what stain can I use on the wood since I?m likely to have
>> to do some restaining? My car is a 67 BJ8. Thanks in advance for the advice.
>> 
>> Bruce
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> _______________________________________________
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>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 12
> Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 14:29:36 GMT
> From: "dwflagg at juno.com" <dwflagg at juno.com>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stuff!!
> Message-ID: <20181104.092936.19318.0 at webmail01.dca.untd.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> 
> I know I mentioned this before, but the time is near. Within the next few weeks I will lay out in my garage all the Healey parts, etc. that I have after 50+ years. I will take pictures and post to the list. My goal is to have someone arrive with a trailer and make an offer I can't refuse. Most, to all, will be for the 100-4. A little bit of everything from a beautiful grille, auxiliary instruments, NOS lights, lenses, and boxes of parts. The one item I would like to sell separately, is a 100-4 BN2 instrument panel, restored by Rich Chrysler. It is painted Healey Blue and ready to install. I will send pictures on request. The time is nearing for our move to St. Louis to be near our grandson. I appreciate your help, and so does my wife and grandson!! Thanks. Cheers, Doug
> ____________________________________________________________
> See If You Can Guess Who This Former Child Star Is
> funnyjk.com
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5bdf027c673dd2776e57st01duc
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 13
> Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 10:15:45 -0500
> From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
> To: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinishing dashboard wood
> Message-ID: <EF7318DF-E226-4C9D-9062-B5A6D54D3668 at rogers.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I found the only way to get the old stuff off was to get under it with a pallet knife- it seemed to be impervious to any removers. I didn?t have to use any stain- the burled veneer has quite a lot of colour of its own once the new varnish goes on.
> Steve Byers can tell you about a product he used called, something like ?Envirotek?.
> I used many coats of spar varnish and sanded between coats.
> 
> Stephen, BJ8
> 
>> On Nov 4, 2018, at 1:40 AM, Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
>> 
>> I have done this on a TR6. The lacquer was probably epoxy as it did not respond to solvents, so I had to sand away the coat. Be very careful as the wood surface may be a very thin veneer easily damaged by sanding. use 400 grade. I used many coats of boat lacquer to finish the dash to build up before sanding the top coat smooth, first with 600, followed by 2000 and a cutting compound to achieve a highly glossy finish.
>> 
>> Not difficult but very tedious.
>> 
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> 
>> Op 4-11-2018 om 04:12 schreef Bruce Peters:
>>> Hi all,
>>> My dashboard wood?s clear coat is cracked all over. I?m wondering what type of finish this is and what i should use to recoat it after I?ve sanded it all off. Also, what stain can I use on the wood since I?m likely to have to do some restaining? My car is a 67 BJ8. Thanks in advance for the advice.
>>> 
>>> Bruce
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl>
>>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings@rogers.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings@rogers.com>
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 14
> Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 07:37:49 -0800
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 100-4 timing
> Message-ID: <a78675cc-1a9b-5b9b-ea26-a513bbdebb69 at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
> 
> re: "I'm wondering if I have been over thinking this process and the 
> stated advance is meant to be "at idle" with the vacuum connected..."
> 
> I've always disconnected the vacuum advance, at least for my BJ8 and (I 
> think) for my BN2.? I believe I read this in the shop manual, but don't 
> have it handy to check.? I've checked with and without the VA connected, 
> and didn't detect much, if any difference.? If you've set up HD8s 'per 
> the book,' you would be running on the slow run (bypass) circuit, and 
> the closed throttle would (I think, not sure) cover the VA port.
> 
> I'm not sure the vacuum vanishes at wide-open throttle* (WOT). There are 
> two types of vacuum: manifold and port; the type on SU carbs is, I 
> believe, the port type.? The depression (vacuum) is created, at least in 
> part, by venturi effect.? Hence, I don't think it goes away entirely, 
> even at WOT, but I'm not sure.
> 
> If you google 'manifold vs ported vacuum advance' you'll get a ton of 
> links; here's just one:
> 
> http://chevellestuff.net/tech/articles/vacuum/port_or_manifold.htm
> 
> So, the $64,000 question is whether the port in an SU carb is behind, 
> right on, or in front of a closed throttle plate (this article says the 
> purpose of port vacuum is to not advance at all at idle)?? First correct 
> answer wins the internet for today.
> 
> * I've always felt the term 'full throttle' to be a little, er, 
> confusing.? Since the purpose of the throttle, by definition of 
> 'throttle,' is to restrain/limit airflow, wouldn't 'full throttle' be a 
> fully closed throttle?? The term may be evolved from 'fully open 
> throttle,' but got shortened (similar, perhaps, to how the aviation term 
> 'on the backside of the power curve' probably gave us 'behind the curve.').
> 
> Bob
> 
>> On 11/2/2018 7:05 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>> Thanks for your input on ignition timing Michael.
>> I have always found the factory specs to be a little confusing.
>> They state 6 degrees BTDC as the timing (which I presume to be 
>> "static") and then state that the distributor produces 16 - 18 degrees 
>> at 2000 RPM (distributor speed) which I figure to be 32 -36 degrees at 
>> 4000 engine RPM.
>> I interpret that to produce 6 + 34 (2 x 17) degrees BTDC at 4000 
>> engine RPM for a total of 40 degrees which sounds like an awful lot.
>> My engine does not sound at all happy with 40 degrees even with 110 
>> octane!!
>> I'm wondering if I have been over thinking this process and the stated 
>> advance is meant to be "at idle" with the vacuum connected (not normal 
>> practice as far as I was taught) which would add 6 degrees of vacuum 
>> advance which would vanish at full throttle producing a net of 34 
>> degrees over 4000 at full throttle.
>> I have been setting the timing to 32 degrees BTDC with the vacuum 
>> disconnected at 4000 RPM and the engine runs fey well and very cool, 
>> in fact too cool without a 180 degree thermostat.
>> I am running 8.3:1 compressions with an M cam.
>> 
>> M
>> 
>> 
>> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 9:16 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com 
>> <mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com>> wrote:
>> 
>>    Wayne--
>> 
>>    Exactly right--it is total advance that matters and I arrived at
>>    that number by gradually increasing advance and seeing the effect
>>    upon water temperature at speed and under full load.? Anything
>>    more and the car would begin to overheat. A bit too much less
>>    advance and performance fell off.
>> 
>>    BTW I am running a DW "fast street" cam and tubular header and a
>>    Mallory non-vacuum advance distributor fired with their Unilite
>>    module.? I too have a Smitty's five-speed and the Toyota box, 180
>>    XAS's and 3.54 diff set give me about 72-73 mph at 3K rpm's indicated
>> 
>>    Best--Michael Oritt
>> 
>>    On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 6:03 PM Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com
>>    <mailto:waschu2 at gmail.com>> wrote:
>> 
>>        Thanks to Michael and others I am going to stick with 34 - 35
>>        degrees total advance for now. What, I think this means, is
>>        that the advance at idle is secondary and not as important as
>>        total advance. Cruising with the the Toyota five speed or the
>>        original overdrive on the highway is right in the 3K RPM range
>>        so I think this the perfect RPM to limit total advance. I
>>        might make a run to my local airport and buy some 100LL fuel.
>>        I have worked in aviation since 1967 so I have a few friends?
>> 
>> 
> 
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 15
> Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 10:48:24 -0500
> From: <glemon at neb.rr.com>
> To: rv9aplane at gmail.com, Tom <ah3000me at gmail.com>
> Cc: Healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinishing dashboard wood
> Message-ID: <20181104154824.FDJID.44346.root at cdptpa-web04>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> 
> My Dash was pretty bad when I got it, the clear coat peeled off easily, much with a fingernail, then I think I used some mild heat to help with the rest.
> 
> I cleaned it with a wood soap, Homer Formby's, then a very light sand, then I simply polyurethaned it with Minwax.  It turned out much darker than a stock TR250 dash, but very beautiful, and it has held up well over time (9 years).
> 
> Greg Lemon
> TR250
> 
> 
> ---- Tom <ah3000me at gmail.com> wrote: 
>> Bruce,
>> 
>> I used a single-edged razor blade to carefully slip under a cracked edge
>> and lift the old clear coat off. YMMV.  After I removed the old clear coat,
>> I lightly sanded it with a very fine grit.  Other folks on this list have
>> said the veneer is very thin, so don't overdo sanding.
>> 
>> After sanding I wiped a mix of mahogany/walnut Minwax oil-based stain on
>> the veneer.  I added very little color to it.  If you're going for a
>> concours-quality car, staining may or may not be the best thing to do.
>> 
>> I used Envirotex Lite for the new finish.  Several folks on this list
>> recommend it, and it worked very well.  It's a heavy epoxy that self levels:
>> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CEMU3I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>> 
>> It takes 2 or 3 days to fully cure, so finding a dust-free environment is
>> important.  After it cures, it's dried to a high gloss and smooth finish.
>> You won't need to sand it.
>> 
>> This is the best instructions I found for mixing it:
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70bOH2j2vvs      Their directions seem a
>> little fastidious, but if you get an incomplete mix, the results will be a
>> mess.     There are lots of videos about applying the epoxy, too.
>> 
>> Good luck!
>> 
>> - Tom
>> 
>>> On Sun, Nov 4, 2018 at 12:06 AM Bruce Peters <rv9aplane at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi all,
>>> My dashboard wood?s clear coat is cracked all over. I?m wondering what
>>> type of finish this is and what i should use to recoat it after I?ve sanded
>>> it all off. Also, what stain can I use on the wood since I?m likely to have
>>> to do some restaining? My car is a 67 BJ8. Thanks in advance for the advice.
>>> 
>>> Bruce
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me@gmail.com
>>> 
>>> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 16
> Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 09:55:09 -0800
> From: Albert Seminatore <alsemus1 at gmail.com>
> To: michaelsalter at gmail.com
> Cc: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
> Message-ID:
>    <CAEEMJ+3zV5oXyYPe6ecLhVRBHjwSMKxrs0Y+ygJVxvj8K=zOHw at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> The threads are great no problem.
> One person mentioned using a fille to rough up the surfaces.  This did
> help.  I used the roughest stone iin my Dremel kit.  Now it doesn't break
> my shinbone it just cuts the skin.
> It's a shame Moss doesn't provide the parts for this.  But then I guess
> most people don't have the problem or they ignore the problem.  For me it
> is a big problem since I drive the car most every day..................
> Al
> 
> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018 at 5:03 PM Michael Salter <michael.salter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> Another source for left hand threads is turnbuckles but as I recall the
>> left door uses a right hand thread.
>> 
>> M
>> 
>>> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 7:48 PM goldengt <goldengt at cal.net wrote:
>>> 
>>> The threads are probably stripped on the stud or nut or both. You could
>>> weld in a new stud or use a smaller die to cut new thread and a smaller
>>> nut. Get the left hand thread ztuff from McMaster Carr on line.
>>> Ken Freese
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>>> 
>>> -------- Original message --------
>>> From: Albert Seminatore <alsemus1 at gmail.com>
>>> Date: 11/3/18 1:46 PM (GMT-08:00)
>>> To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Subject: [Healeys] How to keep the door open
>>> 
>>> I have a BT7 whose drivers door won't stay open any more.  The passenger
>>> door is ok.
>>> I have tried tightening the friction washer but it wont do any good.
>>> There is a new "friction washer" installed but it doesn't do any good
>>> either.  The metal pieces have been "polished" over the years and are VERY
>>> smooth - like glass smooth.
>>> 
>>> What do other folks do to recover the friction need to keep the door open?
>>> ...................   Al
>>> 
>>> --
>>> Albert Seminatore
>>> Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
>>> eMail:  alsemus1 at gmail.com
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>> 
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>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>>> 
> 
> -- 
> Albert Seminatore
> Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV
> eMail:  alsemus1 at gmail.com
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