[Healeys] 1967 Healey BJ8
A H List
austinhealeyslist at gmail.com
Thu Jul 12 23:41:20 MDT 2018
The diecast housing tends to corrode inside and eventually goes
through so I'd replace it. The replacement ones are of reasonable
quality although there is a tiny steel spring inside that rusts away
if you don't use corrosion inhibitor and then the heater stays
partially on regardless of the lever position. I prefer to recycle the
steel lever and other parts from the original and fit them onto a new
diaphragm and diecast housing just for the sake of keeping original
Definitely replace the oring that clamps the valve onto the heater
core, it will probably look triangular and rock hard.
Being mindful of shipwrights disease, consider having the heater core
cleaned out while you are in there. the difference is amazing- it is
surprising how much heat they produce when not blocked up,
particularly if a plastic blower fan is installed in place of the
metal one. Attached is a pic of a heater core with the end removed,
more than 3/4 of the tubes are blocked. A radiator shop should be able
to clean it out for a reasonable fee, alternatively if you are good
with solder and a blowtorch you can remove the end caps yourself
On 7/13/18, Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com> wrote:
> My engine rebuild at 40K miles has turned into painting the engine
> compartment with the doors and front fenders removed for access. With the
> rebuilt engine I am installing a rebuilt Toyota five speed gearbox and have
> already rebuilt the rear end with an original 3:54 ring and pinion. The
> original S/N transmission will live on my shelf with my spare. I am trying
> really hard to stop taking things apart but today I pulled my heater
> assembly out to replace the hoses and clean and paint the housing.
> Question, should I keep my forty year old heater valve or replace it with
> new replacement. Are there good replacements available or just China junk?
> With the engine, gearbox and center console out access will never be better
> then now.
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