[Healeys] Pertronix question

[i erbs]

I have a complete pertronix replacement dizzy for sale if anyone is
interested. Neg ground. I decided to keep the oem unit and had it rebuilt.
Contact me off list

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words

On Fri, Nov 3, 2017 at 5:51 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> Pertronics or similar is the way to go.
> Easy to install, bolt on! It just replaces the points and you can do away
> with the condenser. No need to change the plugs, wires or coil.
> No need to dismantle the base plate for the points in the distributor.
> However, make sure the bob weights under the baseplate are free to move,
> the same for the vacuum advance/retard mechanism
> Check that the overall impedance is in accordance with the instruction
> manual of the electronic ignition. It usually should be 3 Ohms. If your car
> has a ballast resistor (wire or block) in series with the coil make sure
> you connect the electronic ignition over both the resistor and coil. The
> coil and the resistor both have an impedance of ca. 1,5 Ohms, so in series
> 3 Ohms. Failing to do so may result in a fried electronic ignition.
> Alternatively you can replace the coil plus resistor with a 12V coil with
> an impedance of around 3 Ohms.
> Disconnect the bypass wire for the resistor from the starter relay. The
> electronic ignition has enough power to produce a decent spark during
> starting.
> You have to set the timing after fitting as it will be way out after the
> conversion.
>
> Nearly all problems with electronic ignition are because of not connecting
> it up correctly, i.e. straight to the coil instead of over coil AND
> resistor and leaving the bypass wire from the starter relay connected, thus
> frying the ignition.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> Op 3-11-2017 om 1:54 schreef Bruce Steele:
>
> Well, after experiencing what seems to be “condenser misfiring” on my way
> back from Russ Thompson’s shop, I’m thinking I may end my stubborn holdout
> and convert to Pertronix.  I’ve a few questions:
>
> 1)    What are the opinions on the Ignitor vs. the Ignitor II?
>
> a.   Is it worth changing out the plug wires to go with the II?
>
> b.   Can you use the stock cap with suppression or spiral wound plug
> wires, or do you replace the cap as well?
>
> c.    Sources for caps and wires?  I’m assuming the Pertronix cap in the
> Moss catalogue is for the Pertronix distributor they list and will not fit
> a DM6 distributor.  Nor do they show Cobalt wires for a 6 cylinder.
>
> 2)    Is it worth getting the Pertronix coil as well?
>
> 3)    The connection looks straight forward—red to coil (+), black to
> coil (–) while retaining the white and white/black connections back into
> the harness.  Obviously the while/black from coil (–) to the distributor is
> removed.
>
> 4)    Pertronix website only shows a kit for the DM6A.  Is this
> applicable to the DM6?
>
> 5)    Looking at the shop manual, their view shows the DM6 negative lead
> post in what appears to be a slot, while my distributor is clearly secured
> to a hole in the housing with nuts.  I’m assuming I have to remove the
> points plate to gain access, correct?
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance for the input.
>
>
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
>
>
>
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