<div dir="ltr">I have a complete pertronix replacement dizzy for sale if anyone is interested. Neg ground. I decided to keep the oem unit and had it rebuilt. Contact me off list</div><div class="gmail_extra"><br clear="all"><div><div class="gmail_signature" data-smartmail="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr">Ira Erbs<div>Portland,OR</div><div><span style="font-family:'Times New Roman',serif"> _______ _______</span><br style="font-family:'Times New Roman',serif"><span style="font-family:'Times New Roman',serif"> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)</span><br style="font-family:'Times New Roman',serif"><span style="font-family:'Times New Roman',serif"> (_________________________)</span></div><div> BT7 engine and disk brakes</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>1967 MGB <img src="http://www.britishcarspecialists.com/assets/images/MG_emblem.jpg" alt="MG"></div><div><br></div><div><span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:14px">A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti</span><br></div><div>Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>
<br><div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Nov 3, 2017 at 5:51 AM, Oudesluys <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl" target="_blank">coudesluijs@chello.nl</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
<div class="m_-6397204108670810433moz-cite-prefix">Pertronics or similar is the way to go.<br>
Easy to install, bolt on! It just replaces the points and you can
do away with the condenser. No need to change the plugs, wires or
coil. <br>
No need to dismantle the base plate for the points in the
distributor. However, make sure the bob weights under the
baseplate are free to move, the same for the vacuum advance/retard
mechanism<br>
Check that the overall impedance is in accordance with the
instruction manual of the electronic ignition. It usually should
be 3 Ohms. If your car has a ballast resistor (wire or block) in
series with the coil make sure you connect the electronic ignition
over both the resistor and coil. The coil and the resistor both
have an impedance of ca. 1,5 Ohms, so in series 3 Ohms. Failing to
do so may result in a fried electronic ignition.<br>
Alternatively you can replace the coil plus resistor with a 12V
coil with an impedance of around 3 Ohms.<br>
Disconnect the bypass wire for the resistor from the starter
relay. The electronic ignition has enough power to produce a
decent spark during starting.<br>
You have to set the timing after fitting as it will be way out
after the conversion.<br>
<br>
Nearly all problems with electronic ignition are because of not
connecting it up correctly, i.e. straight to the coil instead of
over coil AND resistor and leaving the bypass wire from the
starter relay connected, thus frying the ignition.<br>
<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
Op 3-11-2017 om 1:54 schreef Bruce Steele:<br>
</div>
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<div class="m_-6397204108670810433WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Well, after experiencing what seems
to be “condenser misfiring” on my way back from Russ
Thompson’s shop, I’m thinking I may end my stubborn holdout
and convert to Pertronix. I’ve a few questions:</span></p>
<p class="m_-6397204108670810433MsoListParagraph"><span><span>1)<span> </span></span></span><span>What
are the opinions on the Ignitor vs. the Ignitor II? </span></p>
<p class="m_-6397204108670810433MsoListParagraph"><span><span>a.<span> </span></span></span><span>Is
it worth changing out the plug wires to go with the II? </span></p>
<p class="m_-6397204108670810433MsoListParagraph"><span><span>b.<span> </span></span></span><span>Can
you use the stock cap with suppression or spiral wound plug
wires, or do you replace the cap as well? </span></p>
<p class="m_-6397204108670810433MsoListParagraph"><span><span>c.<span> </span></span></span><span>Sources
for caps and wires? I’m assuming the Pertronix cap in the
Moss catalogue is for the Pertronix distributor they list
and will not fit a DM6 distributor. Nor do they show Cobalt
wires for a 6 cylinder.</span></p>
<p class="m_-6397204108670810433MsoListParagraph"><span><span>2)<span> </span></span></span><span>Is
it worth getting the Pertronix coil as well?</span></p>
<p class="m_-6397204108670810433MsoListParagraph"><span><span>3)<span> </span></span></span><span>The
connection looks straight forward—red to coil (+), black to
coil (–) while retaining the white and white/black
connections back into the harness. Obviously the
while/black from coil (–) to the distributor is removed.</span></p>
<p class="m_-6397204108670810433MsoListParagraph"><span><span>4)<span> </span></span></span><span>Pertronix
website only shows a kit for the DM6A. Is this applicable
to the DM6?</span></p>
<p class="m_-6397204108670810433MsoListParagraph"><span><span>5)<span> </span></span></span><span>Looking
at the shop manual, their view shows the DM6 negative lead
post in what appears to be a slot, while my distributor is
clearly secured to a hole in the housing with nuts. I’m
assuming I have to remove the points plate to gain access,
correct?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Thanks in advance for the input.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Bruce Steele</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Brea, CA</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>1960 BN7</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
</div>
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