[Healeys] Stripped Water Pump Stud

Oudesluys coudesluijs at chello.nl
Sat May 27 06:11:02 MDT 2017

Before you start attacking the stud apply some proper penetrating oil 
for several days, heat up the stud with a blow torch, let it cool down 
and give it another douse of penetrating oil. Fit two new nuts, they may 
still have some grip, give the stud a few taps (not blows) on the head 
with a hammer to break up the rust, try to turn a mere fraction 
clockwise with the lower nut hitting the non threaded part (a few taps 
on the stud while under tension may help), then tighten up the upper nut 
and using the lower nut unscrew.
Be careful not to shear of the stud!!!
Most of the time the thread in the nut would strip as the stud/bolt is 
supposed to be a stronger spec than the nut. So have a good look first 
which one has been stripped
Filing flats to the stud will not do any good if the stud is tight with 
rust. Simply not enough surface to get a hold on.

Kees Oudesluijs

Op 27-5-2017 om 13:14 schreef Patrick & Caroline Quinn:
> G’day
> Had a half hour to spare this afternoon so I thought I would fit the 
> new water pump to the BN3’s six-cylinder engine.
> Of the four nuts, three tightened without a problem. but I managed to 
> strip the thread the stud thread on the fourth.
> Normally I would use the twin nut method, but with the stud stripped 
> that’s not possible. So what to do? My 40+ year old vice-grips 
> (mole-grips) can’t handle the strain and I don’t have a welder to weld 
> on a nut, nor do I have an extractor.
> Was thinking about filing the end of the stud flat on two sides and 
> using a crescent wrench or what we call a shifting spanner. Any 
> experienced advice out there?
> Many thanks
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
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