[Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8

Fri May 12 08:08:31 MDT 2017

According to the DWR website, any of their cams other than the DWR1 require releaving the pistons.  My engine was just finished with a DWR1 cam with his bucket followers and lifters, and I’ve had a DWR high capacity oil pump for years.  I also had DWR 85mm pistons installed.  Unfortunately it is not yet back in the car so I can’t give you any driving impressions.  You can talk to Dave Nock, though; he runs a DWR1 cam, as I recall.

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Masucci
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 4:06 AM
To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8

Hi all,

A few weeks back I mentioned to the list that I’m considering using a Welch DWR8 cam.  Based on responses and more research I think I will go with the DWR1 with the bucket followers and longer pushrods. I also plan to use the high capacity pump on my mostly stock engine. 

I was considering using the roller rockers, but am not sure if that’s going to make any significant improvement. I know it will buy a couple of ponies due to less friction, but is there any other significant advantage on a basically stock engine. Would I be wasting my money on something fancy that really has modest benefit? The DWR1 cam provides 0.252” cam lift. According to Welch, the valve lift with standard rockers would be 0.358”, and would not need pockets machined into the block. Based on the 1.65:1 ratio of the roller rockers, the valve lift will be 0.416”. I believe that will require pockets in the block.

Does anyone have opinions on this combination? The roller rocker assembly is over $1200 not including getting into the US from the UK. Is there a better place in the engine  to spend those dollars? 

Thanks all!!

Dave

64 BJ8

72 XJ6

72 Bonneville

On Apr 16, 2017, at 1:13 AM, Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com> > wrote:

Bob, your post is of interest.  I just sent my engine to the painter today with DWR 85mm pistons; DWR1 cam, hollow tappets and matching pushrods; and DWR lightened flywheel with 9.5” clutch.  Already had the DWR high capacity oil pump.  Plus new DWR reverse, 1st and cluster gears and all new synchros.  I’m keeping the stock intake and exhaust manifolds, and the stock carbs.  My car was originally a non-OD cars (now so equipped), so it has the 3.54 rear.  Really looking forward to experiencing how it will drive.

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

From: Healeys [ <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2017 8:38 AM
To:  <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8

Neglected to mention I have a Lempert 3.54 diff in my car, so the lower torque curve is helpful.

On 4/15/2017 7:17 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:

Hi Dave,

I just finished a rebuild on my BJ8; my engine--with over 100K miles--was in similar condition to yours with significant cam lobe and lifter wear.  I installed a DWR1 cam; it's more appropriate if you're really ' looking for stock or mild tune only.'   The DWR1 is 'slightly better than stock', in DWR's word's, and should be most appropriate for a street/touring car as the torque curve is lower.  I don't think you'll gain much if anything with the DWR8 unless you at least use headers and port your head--or buy one of DWR's alloy heads--and then additional tuning is required.  Steve G.--on this list, I believe--is doing a build with a DWR8 cam, but he has headers and the rest of his engine is likely tuned for the higher torque/power band.  The DWR1 doesn't want to go much over 4,500RPM, but I do mostly long distance touring so I'm usually running 2,500RPM, give-or-take.  I do a lot of driving '100 miles from nowhere' so I generally go pretty easy on my drivetrain.

DWR recommends their High Capacity oil pump when using their gun-drilled cam, unless you're going to spend time over 6,000RPM (in which case you'll probably want their billet crankshaft, conrods, pistons, etc.).  Since you had cam/lifter damage, be sure to clean all components--e.g. rocker shaft--thoroughly to remove any debris.  My builder was adamant about that.  You can use either 'standard' lifters with your current pushrods, or get bucket lifters and their pushrods.  I went with standard.  I sourced an adjustable, vernier timing set from Australia; my builder said the cam did require some adjustment.

DWR Support has a chat facility; they are very responsive but, of course, there's a significant time difference.  Whichever cam you use, please let us know your results.

Bob

On 4/15/2017 4:12 AM,  <mailto:drmasucci at comcast.net> drmasucci at comcast.net wrote:

Hi All,

Well now that spring is here, I am resuming the rebuild of my BJ8 engine. The engine was rebuilt back in 1999, but since I'm doing a full resto of the car, I decided to take a look at the engine. While all other parameters were well within spec, the cam and lifters were damaged. Back then I didn't know much about modern oils and the lack of zinc, and since that's the only part of the engine that didn't do well, I am assuming that must be why.

So I am now trying to decide what to do. I can have my cam reground, or buy new. Since I believe it was already reground and based on the wear, I am thinking maybe new is the best choice. I am looking for stock or mild tune only. 

I am not a pro engine builder, but I know the basics and am not new to the process. I know that if I change something like the cam parameters, I need to understand how that affects the rest of the valve train. I looking for guidance on selecting the right components.

I am considering the Welch DWR8 cam and lifter package. I understand that I will have to machine pockets into the block for valve clearance. I will be having the head rebuilt to basic stock parameters as far as the valve gear is concerned. I need to determine how to select the correct pushrods. Since this cam is drilled to feed oil to the lobes, do I need to make other modifications to support that feature? 

So I'm looking for some feedback and recommendations from the list. Has anyone followed a similar path on their 6 cylinder Healey?  Any opinions, cautions, or advice would be appreciated. Is this cam my best choice? Also if there are better options to consider I'd like to hear that also. 

As usual, thanks in advance for any help.

Dave

64 BJ8

72 XJ6

72 Bonneville

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