[Healeys] Shroud Repair.

[HealeyRick]

You were partially right, face-saving quote here:  * It is not possible to
weld  right to the end of the joint because the clamp is in the way.  In
such cases, the joint is completed after removal from the jig, using an
ordinary oxy-acetylene torch, aluminium filler rod and Alotectic flux.*

*Happy Healeying,*
*Rick Neville*

On Tue, Jul 11, 2017 at 2:21 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <YNOTINK at msn.com> wrote:

> Hmmm! You're right. Red face here...
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of HealeyRick <
> healeyrik at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2017 3:01:11 PM
> *To:* richard mayor
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair.
>
> Here's the definitive answer on how shrouds were welded with some great
> photos, thanks to Larry Varley's site:  http://www.acmefluid.com.au/
> larry/jensenweld.html  Argon arc welding using a tungsten electrode ...
> or as it's known now:  TIG
>
> Happy Healeying,
> Rick Neville
>
> On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 8:50 PM, richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> All the various panels that make up the shroud were TIG welded by Jensen.
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 11:23 AM, Henry Morrison <dos_gusanos at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> A gap that big should have a new piece of Aluminum gas welded back in
>>> (if you can find the right guy)  then the metal can be hammered back in to
>>> shape. TIG weld usually are too hard and crack when worked and tend to get
>>> bondo over the tops of them.  I have never seen any "factory applied"
>>> filler in any of the cars I have worked on.  I don't believe the BMC
>>> factory ever used it.
>>>
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>>
>>> Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from Outlook <http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Keith
>>> Pennell <llennep at verizon.net>
>>> *Sent:* Saturday, July 8, 2017 8:01 AM
>>> *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; ahbt71 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair.
>>>
>>> I agree with John.  And don't use fiberglass!!
>>>
>>> Keith
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: John Rowe <john at jtkarowe.com.au>
>>> To: 'Mike Tobin' <ahbt71 at gmail.com>; healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Sat, Jul 8, 2017 7:00 am
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair.
>>>
>>> Mike, not a job for novices or the faint hearted. You can end up with a
>>> big blob of alloy on the floor no matter what welding technique you try.
>>> TIG with an alternating current is the only way to go.
>>> Bight the bullet and send it to a professional for repair
>>> John Rowe
>>> Qld Australia
>>>
>>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>>> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net?>] *On Behalf Of *Mike Tobin
>>> *Sent:* Saturday, 8 July 2017 8:29 AM
>>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
>>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Shroud Repair.
>>>
>>> I've got  a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend.
>>> What's the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because
>>> that's how I'm approaching the restoration.
>>> I've got  MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front
>>> shroud  with it.  I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind
>>> the hole.  When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating
>>> to use the spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there
>>> from corrosian. I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not.
>>>
>>>
>>> I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've
>>> uncovered on both shrouds.  At first I thought I thought it was damage
>>> repair with the first owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of
>>> the shrouds showed no sign of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but
>>> to shape the contour..
>>>
>>> Cheers and Thanks Again,
>>> Mike Tobin
>>> Townsend, Montana
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>
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>
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