[Healeys] 100 stamped aluminium trim screws

[Randy Hicks]

Ken, might be what you are looking for from the 2017 Austin Healey Concours Guidelines released yesterday:

"Door Seals and Alloy Trim Plates   

On BN1/2's, door seals consisted of one hard "Furflex"-covered rubber bulb on the forward door pillar edge with the tail of the furflex glued to the back edge of the inside kick panel, but as it reached the dashboard mounting flange, it was notched to skip over to the outboard edge of the flange where it was sandwiched between the windshield post bracket and the door pillar edge to continue to the top of the door pillar, with the top end hidden behind the scuttle seal assembly.  A second strip of furflex was sandwiched between the door trim panel and door casing at the front of the door, and a third and fourth strip was fitted to the back edge of the door, one above and one below the door lock aperture.  The lower edge of the door was sealed by a strip of quarter-round rubber along the outer lower edge of the door casing.  Furflex generally matched the interior trim panel colour, though shades may have varied.  On blue interiors, it was a light gray color.

On BN1/2s and Longbridge-built BN4s, screws on the aluminum door shut facing have the same head as those used to attach the door trim panels (countersunk chromed #6 oval Phillips head sheet metal screws as opposed to the unique style used on the 6 cylinder cars).  From the introduction of the Abingdon BN6 through possibly the end of BJ7 production, the shut facing was fastened with small, #4 truss-headed Phillips screws with very small cross-head screwdriver slots.  Starting around 1963 or 1964 the screw head was changed from Phillips to Pozidriv. This type of head has been seen on an original BJ8 built in 1966. On late BJ8s some cars have been found with a "washer" molded into the screw head. It is suggested that you look at the predominant type of screw head on your car to try to determine which style was original. This will only work if you have good reason to suspect the trim screws are original, or mostly so. (See Photo – Figure VI-2). 

On BN1/2s and Longbridge BN4 models the door shut plate has grained vinyl piping, which usually approximately matches the colour of the car exterior, separating it from the rear fender.  On later 6-cylinder models the door shut plate has black, grained vinyl piping separating it from the rear fender.


On the 4-cylinder cars, the door shut face piping simply tucks under the alloy trim plate as it reaches the top edge of the trim plate. "

Randy

Randy Hicks
Austin Healey Concours Registry Committee
AHCA 100 Registrar
ahca100registrar at gmail.com <mailto:ahca100registrar at gmail.com>
www.austinhealey100m.com <http://www.austinhealey100m.com/>

> On Jan 6, 2017, at 10:19 PM, goldengt at cal.net wrote:
> 
> I am confused by the Roger Moment articles, Moss catalog, and BCS catalog on the proper screws for the aluminium sill and shut face plates for a BN2. Should it be #6 or #4 and should it be pan head, truss head, or pozidrive with integral flange?
> I did #4 truss head on my BJ8 which might be wrong.
> Thanks,
> Ken Freese
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