[Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor

Sun Feb 12 10:15:58 MST 2017

Not quite, setting the static timing was the only means at the time and 
the instructions should be accurate. Nowadays it is more convenient to 
set the timing dynamically, but without vacuum and at stationary revs, 
which is in most cases the same as the static timing. The so called fine 
tuning is in practice irrelevant except when the car is tuned on a 
rolling road. However you can check if the centrifugal advance mechanism 
is working properly by keeping the engine on e.g. 2500 or 3000rpm and 
check what advance is indicated. Disconnect the vacuum line for this 
though. The vacuum advance/retard, if fitted, is only in operation at 
low load.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 12-2-2017 om 12:51 schreef Simon Lachlan:
>
> In this instance, static timing would precede dynamic timing because 
> the car was so far out of tune that the engine would not run.
>
> In my thinking, static is only used to get the timing onto the right 
> map page, enabling the engine to be started and then tuned more 
> precisely by other means.
>
> Simon
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *Michael Oritt
> *Sent:* 11 February 2017 21:33
> *To:* Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> *Cc:* Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Static Timing a Pertronix Ignitor
>
> I am probably showing my ignorance on ignition theory but I have never 
> understood the concern with static timing versus dynamic (total) 
> timing when the car is running.  Since the amount of centrifugal 
> advance is not adjustable why am I concerned with what the initial 
> static timing is?
>
> So long as the distributor is oriented correctly and I am in the 
> ballpark--usually verified by the engine's starting--all I do is set 
> total timing at 3000 rpms's.
>
> If I am missing something I would appreciate learning what that is.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sat, Feb 11, 2017 at 7:02 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl 
> <mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl>> wrote:
>
>     Set the crankshaft at the desired static ignition timing. Set the
>     distributor housing with the rotor in the approximate position of
>     no.1 cylinder on its compression stroke, then slightly back.
>     Switch on the ignition and turn the distributor forwards until you
>     hear the faint click of the spark. Switch of the ignition
>     immediately. That would be fine for fine tuning the timing
>     dynamically.
>     Do not leave on the electronic ignition unnecessary, it may get
>     damaged if left on for a long time.
>     Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>     Op 11-2-2017 om 8:21 schreef Simon Lachlan:
>
>         We’re talking about an Ignitor ie NOT an Ignitor II. In a
>         positive earth BJ8.
>
>         The timing may be all to hell. I’m in the UK; the car’s in Paris.
>
>         Let’s say that the clamp bolts “may somehow have got loosened”
>         during the initially successful swap from points to Ignitor
>         the other day.
>
>         (Yes, it’s an old Ignitor but it was NOS, boxed and unused, in
>         the boot when the car was delivered.)
>
>         Now, I’ve been looking at my accumulated notes on Static
>         Timing etc with a view that we may have to go down that track,
>         if it proves that we have air, fuel and spark but not
>         necessarily in the right order!
>
>         I’ve accumulated a lot of info over the years which is
>         primarily a Good Thing, but sometimes I find conflicting
>         information.
>
>         For example, one source says that the Ignitor II cannot be
>         static timed. Another source implies that all EI’s, including
>         Ignitor IIs, can be timed by putting a multimeter across the
>         coil’s primary connections.
>
>         Another one says:- “To begin the timing exercise you must
>         statically time the engine at around *10* degrees BTDC. With
>         the engine at *10* degrees BTDC on the firing stroke align the
>         distributor so that the points are just about to open or in
>         the case of an electronic distributor */_so that the stator
>         and rotor tips are just aligning_/*. Lock the distributor
>         enough to stop it moving. Ensure that the vacuum advance
>         retard is disconnected and the tube plugged. Start the engine
>         and let it idle, adjust the timing with the engine running to
>         *10* degrees BTDC and lock the distributor.”
>
>         (Ignore the 10° advice.) With reference to an Ignitor…..does
>         this apply? And what is the “stator”? I can “assume” that it’s
>         the little curved black box of tricks? Does this or could this
>         apply to the Pertronix? Seems a bit inaccurate……one would have
>         assume that the critical alignment point in the “stator” was
>         prec.isely in the centre of the inside of the curve??..... I
>         suppose one could try the voltmeter across the coil method and
>         see where the rotor was in relation to the “stator”?? Any
>
>         Has anyone any tips on static timing an Ignitor? I’ve timed
>         them, but never had to go back to Stage One ie I’ve used a
>         timing light and made adjustments to a running engine rather
>         than go back to basics where the timing is completely out and
>         the engine won’t fire at all.
>
>         Any help would be much appreciated and doubly so in Paris!
>
>         Simon
>
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