[Healeys] Shims

[Bob Spidell]

Couple things:

1) I'm too lazy to fetch my Bentley (manual), but I think the spec is 
0.003"--i.e. just a smidge--of end float on the stub axles, to allow for 
expansion of the bearings when warm.  Please correct me if I'm wrong as 
I'm going into my axles soon.

2) putting all in compression--a lot of compression--also locks the 
inner spacer--the one the seal rides on, lest it spin

3) I would love to have a Warthog (A-10)*

Bob

* Many years ago, I was preparing to depart Burbank airport in my 
Cherokee, there was a couple of spotless, sparkling Warthogs, 
resplendent in an (almost) BRG paint, parked on the ramp, with canopies 
up and flight ladder extended (pre 9/11, of course).  They must have 
been coming from or going to a nearby airshow.  I'm thinking, 'Gee, I 
wonder if they left the keys in ...'


On 8/21/2017 9:03 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
>
> “Only” somewhat technical packing pieces? Don’t under-estimate their 
> importance.  When fully tightened with zero end-float,  the “tube” 
> created around the stub axle created by putting, inner races, spacer, 
> shims, washer and nut into compression against the hub act as a 
> structural member and take some of the load off of the stub axle, 
> which is prone to cracking if the correct procedure is not followed, 
> as we all know.
>
> If I do not have the correct new shim that I need to hand, I will 
> re-use old ones providing they have not been battered or creased.  
> Also, I try to use the combination of thickest shims I can to remove 
> end-float.  It should not matter as they are in compression, but I had 
> a crank shim in my BSA Road Rocket break up once with dire 
> consequences.  In that application,  the engineering, in my opinion, 
> is a bit dodgy as the shims were used to set end-float on the crank, 
> which I seem to recall was 0.002”.  I had included a thin shim in the 
> combination and that small amount of movement, at engine speeds, was 
> enough to pound the thing to pieces.  When I rebuild it I worked out 
> the thickness of shims needed and had a machinist surface grind one 
> thick shim for me.  Not necessary for the Healey wheel bearings, but 
> if any of you have an A10 ….
>
> Mirek
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *Simon Lachlan
> *Sent:* August-21-17 6:49 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Shims
>
> Hi,
>
> With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be replacing the 
> bearings in my MkII’s front RHS when winter has set in. (Won’t be long!)
>
> Anyhow, I’ve half a pack of unused shims left and there will be others 
> in the hub. Is there any reason why I can’t reuse some/all of the old 
> ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new ones?
>
> As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so, 
> provided the shims’ metallurgy(?) was correct in the first place, the 
> old one will still be good to go??? They’re only somewhat technical 
> packing pieces???
>
> As ever, I stand ready to be corrected.
>
> Simon
>
>

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