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<p>Couple things:</p>
<p>1) I'm too lazy to fetch my Bentley (manual), but I think the
spec is 0.003"--i.e. just a smidge--of end float on the stub
axles, to allow for expansion of the bearings when warm. Please
correct me if I'm wrong as I'm going into my axles soon.<br>
</p>
<p>2) putting all in compression--a lot of compression--also locks
the inner spacer--the one the seal rides on, lest it spin</p>
<p>3) I would love to have a Warthog (A-10)*<br>
</p>
Bob<br>
<br>
* Many years ago, I was preparing to depart Burbank airport in my
Cherokee, there was a couple of spotless, sparkling Warthogs,
resplendent in an (almost) BRG paint, parked on the ramp, with
canopies up and flight ladder extended (pre 9/11, of course). They
must have been coming from or going to a nearby airshow. I'm
thinking, 'Gee, I wonder if they left the keys in ...'<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/21/2017 9:03 PM, Mirek Sharp
wrote:<br>
</div>
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<p class="MsoNormal">“Only” somewhat technical packing pieces?
Don’t under-estimate their importance. When fully tightened
with zero end-float, the “tube” created around the stub axle
created by putting, inner races, spacer, shims, washer and nut
into compression against the hub act as a structural member
and take some of the load off of the stub axle, which is prone
to cracking if the correct procedure is not followed, as we
all know.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">If I do not have the correct new shim that
I need to hand, I will re-use old ones providing they have not
been battered or creased. Also, I try to use the combination
of thickest shims I can to remove end-float. It should not
matter as they are in compression, but I had a crank shim in
my BSA Road Rocket break up once with dire consequences. In
that application, the engineering, in my opinion, is a bit
dodgy as the shims were used to set end-float on the crank,
which I seem to recall was 0.002”. I had included a thin shim
in the combination and that small amount of movement, at
engine speeds, was enough to pound the thing to pieces. When
I rebuild it I worked out the thickness of shims needed and
had a machinist surface grind one thick shim for me. Not
necessary for the Healey wheel bearings, but if any of you
have an A10 ….<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Mirek<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif""
lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif""
lang="EN-US"> Healeys
[<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of
</b>Simon Lachlan<br>
<b>Sent:</b> August-21-17 6:49 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Shims<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Hi,<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">With reference to front
wheel bearing shims, I shall be replacing the bearings in my
MkII’s front RHS when winter has set in. (Won’t be long!)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Anyhow, I’ve half a pack
of unused shims left and there will be others in the hub. Is
there any reason why I can’t reuse some/all of the old ones
&/or mix and match them with some of the new ones?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">As I see it, we use the
shims to get the correct end float so, provided the shims’
metallurgy(?) was correct in the first place, the old one
will still be good to go??? They’re only somewhat technical
packing pieces???<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">As ever, I stand ready
to be corrected.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<br>
<pre wrap="">
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