[Healeys] Fasteners

[Chris Dimmock]

Hi Bob,
The issue with Healey rod bolts with the silly pin setup is you can't just go and buy better replacement modern fasteners like you can on e.g. a Sprite. So you either find low mileage ones and test for stretch; buy new ones for $US 180 plus freight https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/Engine-6-Cylinder-ENG595-to-ENG680/BOLT-big-end.aspx or 
Rework the rod to take a better, different bolt setup. Or buy aftermarket rods. 
I used very low mileage sedan bolts 18 years ago because new ones weren't available. 
In your case Bill, I'd just buy new standard ones. 
Main studs you can buy new ARP for $US 50 bucks, so that's a no brainer. Same with head studs - you just need to measure what you've got and find the equivelent ones on an ARP reseller website. About another $120 or so. 
If an engine is on its 3rd rebuild, and has done 200k, I'd replace all the fasteners. They're probably too stretched. Another $300 odd now, will be cheap if an old one breaks....
 Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

> On 25 Sep 2016, at 9:31 AM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I would not reuse Rod bolts. No opinion on the others.
> 
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 100-6
> MKI engine and disc brakes
> Portland,OR
> 
> 
>> On Sep 24, 2016 1:40 PM, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>> Engine rebuild in progress; wondering which, if any, bolts and studs need to be replaced.  Car is a BJ8, with almost 200K miles and (at least) two engine rebuilds.  No issues besides low compression--attributed to leaky valves and rings--so, I'm wondering, can I reuse head and main studs, and rod bolts?  This will be a mostly stock rebuild, with a slightly hotter cam (DWR1).
>> 
>> Not trying to pinch pennies, but don't want to overbuild, either.  Thoughts?
>> 
>> TIA,
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
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