[Healeys] Spin-on oil filters

[Michael Oritt]

Simon--

The only filter I have seen with a hex end is the K&N.  The hex is a
stamping and thus the edges are a bit on the round side so it is sometimes
hard to get a socket to stay on it.  However if you do not overtighten the
filter it is  not necessary to use a socket to remove it.

The construction of the K&N is superior to that of the commonly-seen Fram
and its many relabelled iterations and the end plate is made of heavier
steel.  Though K&N says that all of its filters have an anti-drainback
valve some are constructed in a manner that prohibits filling the filter
with oil prior to installation which is something I always do to eliminate
the slug of air that the oil pump must otherwise swallow.  I have seen the
valve present in same model number filter as those without it, so if this
feature is important to you examine the filter before buying.

I once purchased a Royal Purple filter and when I went to cut it apart (I
always do this to check for bearing material, metal shards, etc) I had a
very difficult time cutting through the filter medium as it is a reinforced
plastic mesh, much tougher than that used on K&N.  I have no idea whether
the burst strength of the canister itself is higher but the RP filter is a
gorilla.

Best-- Michael Oritt

On Wed, May 18, 2016 at 10:16 AM, Simon Lachlan <
simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I’ve recently fitted a spin-on kit onto my 3000, the one that goes
> straight onto the block.
>
> Which filters do you guys use? My kit came with a Unipart GFE 166 (CB6). I
> don’t know what the CB6 means.
>
> I gather that the GFE 166 has been superseded by the GFE 443.
>
> So far as I can see it does not have an anti-drain back valve and it seems
> rather small for a 3 litre engine.
>
> Ideally I’d like a longer filter with a valve and hopefully a hex on the
> end for easier removal. Can’t go wider or it will be into the starter motor.
>
> Any ideas???
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
>
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