[Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight

[Austin Healey]

I put coarse sandpaper gasket under the shock to prevent uneven movement
and use 10.9 grade bolts+steel shims+locknuts (reuseable if possible.

Gergo

2016-01-04 4:04 GMT+01:00 Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>:

> I've had best results putting a grade 8 flatwasher under the (grade 8)
> bolt head (against the shock 'ear'), with a grade 8 splitwasher under the
> (grade 8) nut on the backside.  This is one location where threadlocker
> doesn't seem to work better than lockwashers.   And, torque the snot out of
> the bolts.  If the holes in the shocks are oblonged it gets even more
> problematic.
>
> Bob
>
> On 1/3/2016 4:39 PM, Richard Kahn wrote:
>
>
> The split washer damage the mounting surfaces. Try nulock washers. They
> stay tight. I have not had a problem in 3 years since I installed them on
> the rear shocks. There are two washer that kind of ratchet together but can
> still be removed when needed. They have a great video on their web sight.
> They are readily available at fastener shops.
> Rich Kahn
> ------------------------------
> From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2016 16:08:52 -0800
> Subject: [Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight
>
> Seeking ideas on how to keep the rear shock mount bolts tight.  They work
> loose every 1,500 to 2,000 miles, and tightening them is routine with my
> annual maintenance.  I currently have grade 8 bolts, nuts and split
> washers.  Grade 5 bolts, nuts, and split washers were no worse (or better)
> than the grade 8.  Tried Nord-Lock washers 2 years ago after someone posted
> about them on this list.  They loosened more quickly than split washers.
> Tried thread locker and nylocks as well, neither of which were better than
> split washers.
>
>
>
> Anyone have a method that actually keeps the hardware tight?
>
>
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
>
>
>
>
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