[Healeys] Starting a BJ8

[Chris Dimmock]

I've found the best way to oil any "oilite" sintered bronze bush is to find an old vacuum cleaner spray gun. 
The "spray gun" is usually a glass jar, with a Bakelite top. Araldite the vent holes up, araldite a coin in the spray gun nozzle end, fill the glass jar half full with oil, drop in your bronze bush, & connect it to the wife's vacuum cleaner.
Watch the air rush out of the bearing sitting in the bottom of the glass jar. 
It's all done in a matter of minutes. 
Best
Chris 

> On 19 Dec. 2016, at 8:45 pm, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
> 
> You generally do not have to have it rebuilt to improve performance. It is just a matter of maintainance. If taken care of properly they perform well and last forever.
> Just cleaning up often does the trick. It is an easy job. Clean the inside using e.g. a spray can of brake cleaner but be careful with some strong solvents in case they dissolve the shellac of the windings. Just clean up the commutator with 400 grade sandpaper, or better skim the commutator on a lathe, cut the insulator between the copper segments with a narrow (ground flat sides) hack saw blade to about 1/2mm below the surface if needed, inspect/clean/renew the brushes (when the commutator has been skimmed), oil the bronze bushes, clean the bendix thoroughly and lubricate with molybdenum/graphite powder rubbed in on the shaft and it should be fine for the next 25 years minimum.
> 
> By the way, more or less the same goes for the dynamo, although there is a chance that you may have to renew the bronze bearing bush at the back and the ball bearing at the front. If I am not mistaken there is a small hole in the back plate of the dynamo (and starter?) to lubricate the bronze bush now and again.
> Many years ago I used to modify dynamo's to take a ball bearing at the back.
> 
> No need for an often short lived modern geared starter.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> 
> Op 19-12-2016 om 2:46 schreef John Vrugtman:
>> I would like to add that the starters, if they are original, take a lot of current and turn the engine over slowly. I had mine rebuilt professionally and it now turns it over much faster, not like a geared starter, but fast enough.
>> 
>> John
>> 
>>> On 12/18/2016 4:37 PM, llennep at verizon.net wrote:
>>> That's right.  Pull it out and give it about 1/4 to 1/2 twist.  No clothes pin needed.  And yes these cast iron lumps require max choke to start.
>>> 
>>> On 12/18/16, John Spaur wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I recently discovered that pulling the choke know out then rotating it slightly holds it in place.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> John
>>> 
>>> ?62 BT7
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
>>> Sent: Saturday, December 17, 2016 9:03 PM
>>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starting a BJ8
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Good info. I'll add one more thing: On my BJ8, at least, the choke knob has to be held forcefully full out; if the return springs are working at all the knob will slide in a little when you release it. This could possibly make the difference between a start or not.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 12/16/2016 9:14 AM, Bluehealey wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I think it?s a feature of those 2? carbs.
>>> 
>>> The air speed across the jet is quite low at cranking speed, much lower than with HD6?s as the 8?s have 30% larger choke area for the same volume of air being pulled by the induction. As a result there is a need to get the jets pulled as low as possible to get fuel into the throats.
>>> 
>>> The starter fluid trick seems to confirm that.
>>> 
>>> AlanB
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
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>> 
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