coudesluijs at chello.nl
Sat Aug 27 12:32:16 MDT 2016
When rebuilding engines I have always thickly coated the bearing
surfaces, and cam lobes using Graphite or Molybdenium grease. At first
start up I disconnect the ignition until I have oil pressure, than idle
the engine until warm after which I would drive at moderate speed and
load for about 100miles. Never used running in oil , just the prescribed
oil. Then drained the oil and fitted a new filter and filled up with
fresh oil. Again another few thousand miles at moderate loads, oil and
filter change after which speed and load were gradually increased until
about 5000miles before full speed and load were applied. After a rebuild
I never encountered any other wear issues on any engine. Some engines
did more than 250.000 miles after that. The only thing that wore were
the cylinder walls/rings/pistons and valves/seats.
This is for road cars. Racing/rally cars are supposed to need a
different approach, however even with engines that were raced I never
went beyond the original procedure.
Op 27-8-2016 om 18:36 schreef Bob Spidell:
> Don't know if you know it, Michael, but you 'started' a long thread on
> the Forum about this (Steve Gerow re-posted a link he got from you):
> This guy's research, while impressive, has been disputed here:
> This is of major interest to me, as I'll be rebuilding my BJ8's engine
> in the near future. I've run it on off-the-shelf dino
> 20W-50--Castrol, Chevron (mostly) and Valvoline--for almost 120K miles
> so it will be interesting to see what the internals look like now
> (also want to see what deposits, if any, the PCV valve has caused in
> the intake system). #2 has low compression and we'll see if cam lobe
> wear is the cause.
> Agree with Chris on the cam lube. I bought a bunch of GM EOS assembly
> lube way back when and I'm tempted to pour a bottle down the pushrod
> tubes before first startup. Thoughts (of course, I'll use assembly
> lube on the cam and all moving surfaces)?
> Also, I'm leaning towards buying a cam from Denis Welch, which they
> say is 'gun-drilled' which, I presume, means the cam is lubricated
> internally and supplies a stream of oil to the lobes. I'll probably
> also go with their bucket lifters which have a hole on the bottom to
> supply yet more oil to the lifter-lobe surfaces.
> I'm interested in hearing any and all thoughts and experiences on
> engine assembly and break-in. I'm going all-in on this rebuild--it'll
> be the last for this car (I hope)--and my dad wants a friend of his
> who owns a racing engine shop to do the major work ($$$).
> On 8/27/2016 2:31 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote:
>> Interesting, but he completely missed the point that a fundamental
>> part of most flat tappet engine (BMC A, B, or C series) builds that I
>> know of, is liberal application of your favorite "cam lube" on the
>> cam lobes, followers etc.
>> Which is usually a molybdenum disulphide based grease based.
>> So the break in/ run in oil is less of an issue in that first 5 - 10
>> seconds of start up, because the cam lube is on the cam before the
>> oil pump even starts turning...
>> On 27 Aug 2016, at 11:38 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com
>> <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>> Talking of oil here is an interesting article...VERY LONG... on
>>> lifter wear that is opening some eyes!!!
>>> Certainly has me wondering...
>>> On Fri, Aug 26, 2016 at 3:12 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net
>>> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>>> We never talk about oil, so ....
>>> Anybody use this stuff?
>>> This is the best price I've seen on (I assume it's) decent
>>> 20W-50 (and I just bought 3 cases of Valvoline @ $4.99/qt +
>>> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
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