[Healeys] Stripped bolt

[Tim Davis BN7]

If you have working room to drill through the bolt head until if falls off wouldn't a 4" angle grinder be faster at removing it? 

Just a thought 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Michael" <michael.salter at gmail.com> 
To: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs at chello.nl>, healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 7:48:19 AM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stripped bolt 

Hi Ira, 
>From your description it would appear that you have used a "soft" bolt upon which the threads have stripped. 
My bet is that there are still good threads on the part of the bolt that has penetrated through into the tappet cavity and good threads in the block albeit filled with the stripped threads from the bolt. 
There is a chance that Kees recommendation would work BUT there is also a good chance that as the remaining damaged threads of the bolt are forced into the threads in the block casting those threads, in the block, will be severely damaged. 
If that happens you then have a nasty Helicoil job ahead of you. 
My success rate with Helicoils in other than blind holes is about 5% ☹ 
This may sound somewhat labor intensive but here is how I would tackle the problem. 
First remove the generator and all the other bolts securing the bracket. 
Then center punch the head of the offending bolt and drill through it with progressively larger bits until the head falls off. 
Now the bracket can be removed leaving the stub of the bolt protruding. 
After stuffing the tappet cavity with rags I would then cut the bolt off flush with the face of the block using a vibrating Multitool. 
You should then be able to tap the rest of the bolt through into the tappet cavity to get caught in the rags. 
Now run a tap through the hole to clean up the threads and, after cleaning everything thoroughly, you should be good to go.... 
Good luck. 
Michael S 
BN1 #174 

From: Oudesluys 
Sent: ‎26/‎10/‎2015 4:41 a.m. 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stripped bolt 

Try getting an old knife blade under the head to create some leverage, then turn the head anti-clockwise with the spanner while keeping a moderate force on the knife blade. This usually suffices to get the bolt started. 
Kees Oudesluijs 


Op 26-10-2015 om 6:07 schreef I Erbs: 



Just spins. Never got tight, just a bit snug then it spins. Yup, does not sound good 

Ira Erbs 
Portland, OR 
_______ _______ 
(______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) 
(_________________________) 

On Sun, Oct 25, 2015 at 9:53 PM, Bob Spidell < bspidell at comcast.net > wrote: 

<blockquote>

WRT, the bolt not 'untightening;' are you unable to turn the bolt? Or does it turn but not back out? 

Doesn't sound good either way; if a thread chaser doesn't fix the problem I'm afraid you'll probably need to install a helicoil (or similar) when you do get the bad one out. 

Bob 

On 10/25/2015 9:18 PM, I Erbs wrote: 

<blockquote>


Generator plate leaked after I last removed it. Cleaned Right Stuff off, used copper gasket sealer. When removing old bolts i realized the one above the leak spot was not fitting right. retightening bolts and replacing weird one went well. I hand tightened all bolts until firm. One upper bolt would not tighten and now it won't untighten either. Wanky one was a bottom bolt. Any suggestions for removing bad bolt? and clean up the threads ? Shit I'd just like to drive the bugger. 

Mr. Ira Erbs 





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