[Healeys] Stripped bolt

[Michael Salter]

Hi Simon,
Absolutely, that may well work, just as Kee's idea of forcing the bolt
outward wth a blade may work but the problem is that if the section of
stripped thread in the block decdes not to co-operate there is a good
chance that you will loose the thread in the block...
It becomes a question of "feel" and judging whether the coil of thread is
working its way out or the whole thing is going "pear shaped...
Skill level about 3 beers as Earl would say...
M

On Mon, Oct 26, 2015 at 9:41 AM, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk
> wrote:

> Sounds typically well thought and workable.
>
> But, and isn’t there always a “but”.....once you’ve drilled the head off
> the bolt and removed the bracket, you’ll have enough bolt sticking out to
> deal with.
>
> Maybe grab it with a mole wrench and, whilst pulling outwards, screw it
> out.
>
> Then back to Michael’s scheme....
>
> Only a thought...probably the only one today.
>
> Simon
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *
> Michael
> *Sent:* Monday, October 26, 2015 12:48
> *To:* Oudesluys; healeys at autox.team.net
>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Stripped bolt
>
>
>
> Hi Ira,
> From your description it would appear that you have used a "soft" bolt
> upon which the threads have stripped.
> My bet is that there are still good threads on the part of the bolt that
> has penetrated through into the tappet cavity and good threads in the block
> albeit filled with the stripped threads from the bolt.
> There is a chance that Kees recommendation would work BUT there is also a
> good chance that as the remaining damaged threads of the bolt are forced
> into the threads in the block casting those threads, in the block, will be
> severely damaged.
> If that happens you then have a nasty Helicoil job ahead of you.
> My success rate with Helicoils in other than blind holes is about 5% ☹
> This may sound somewhat labor intensive but here is how I would tackle the
> problem.
> First remove the generator and all the other bolts securing the bracket.
> Then center punch the head of the offending bolt and drill through it with
> progressively larger bits until the head falls off.
> Now the bracket can be removed leaving the stub of the bolt protruding.
> After stuffing the tappet cavity with rags I would then cut the bolt off
> flush with the face of the block using a vibrating Multitool.
> You should then be able to tap the rest of the bolt through into the
> tappet cavity to get caught in the rags.
> Now run a tap through the hole to clean up the threads and, after cleaning
> everything thoroughly, you should be good to go....
> Good luck.
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> ------------------------------
>
> *From: *Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> *Sent: *‎26/‎10/‎2015 4:41 a.m.
> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Stripped bolt
>
> Try getting an old knife blade under the head to create some leverage,
> then turn the head anti-clockwise with the spanner while keeping a moderate
> force on the knife blade. This usually suffices to get the bolt started.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 26-10-2015 om 6:07 schreef I Erbs:
>
> Just spins. Never got tight, just a bit snug then it spins. Yup, does not
> sound good
>
>
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>    _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>
>
>
> On Sun, Oct 25, 2015 at 9:53 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> WRT, the bolt not 'untightening;' are you unable to turn the bolt?  Or
> does it turn but not back out?
>
> Doesn't sound good either way; if a thread chaser doesn't fix the problem
> I'm afraid you'll probably need to install a helicoil (or similar) when you
> do get the bad one out.
>
> Bob
>
> On 10/25/2015 9:18 PM, I Erbs wrote:
>
> Generator plate leaked after I last removed it. Cleaned Right Stuff off,
> used copper gasket sealer. When removing old bolts i realized the one above
> the leak spot was not fitting right. retightening bolts and replacing weird
> one went well. I hand tightened all bolts until firm. One upper bolt would
> not tighten and now it won't untighten either. Wanky one was a bottom bolt.
> Any suggestions for removing bad bolt? and clean up the threads ? Shit I'd
> just like to drive the bugger.
>
> Mr. Ira Erbs
>
>
>
>
>
>
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-- 
*If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
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