[Healeys] Back in the Old Days when we were young

I Erbs eyera3000 at gmail.com
Fri Oct 23 09:14:36 MDT 2015 

Bought my car 41 years ago for $500.00. Needed a complete engine and tranny
rebuild. Most of the interior was rotten.
A women cut me off and stopped in 1980 crushing the whole front end.
$350.00 later I bought a donor car with rusted floors and fenders and
transplanted the drivetrain, wire harness and suspension. The one that got
away was a $850.00 2 seat tri -carb 3000! that ran with factory hardtop.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

On Fri, Oct 23, 2015 at 6:40 AM, J. Armour <sebring3000 at bigpond.com> wrote:

> Simon
> 10 out of 10 for that story. It is a pity more current owners have not had
> the same 'school of hard knocks' introduction to their Healey.I believe it
> gives you a greater understanding and appreciation of what we can have
> today.
> I remember crawling under Austin sedans with the snakes and spiders to
> retrieve compatiable spares for my BN.4 in 1966 - ie a gearbox when the
> sedan was sitting on 4 flat tyres!!!  The only source of bodywork spares
> was the odd wrecking yard.
> Today, lookup the internet, add a credit card and wait a few days.
> The positive of all this is that an early education meant we were able to
> get some of the rare and good cars before others realised their value.
> Australia had a very good number of ex-works cars, 100.s and prototype
> Healeys before they started to be sold back overseas.
> My first old Healey was 8 years old. Newer than my current family
> sedan!!!!!!!!
>
> Joe
>
> On 24/10/15 12:12 AM, "Healeys on behalf of Simon Lachlan"
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net on behalf of simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>
> wrote:
>
> >Kees,
> >Frightening that your AH was totally rotten after 10 years or so.
> >I had a MkII BT7 when I was a student, so that's approx 45 years ago. I
> >can't remember exactly when I bought it; let's say 1970. So, it wasn't
> >even
> >10 years old. That car was in worse condition then than my current MkII
> >BT7
> >is now and it is not a concours car. Not at all.
> >Regarding the first car, some clown had stuck plywood over the dash to
> >ape a
> >BJ7 or 8 dash. I was at Trinity College Dublin. In those days, one had to
> >pay a very considerable import duty on imported parts which I couldn't
> >really afford. I do recall carrying(!!!) a hardtop over on the Liverpool
> >ferry. The customs guys stopped me on arrival; I told them that the top
> >was
> >for a cut down Mini special that was originally locally made. (Quite a few
> >cars were assembled (CKD?) in Ireland in those days. Including Minis. At
> >Rathmines in Dublin of all places.) I got through; I doubt that they
> >believed me, just they gave me credit for a good fib.
> >The car was Colorado red over matt(!) black. The top was some after-market
> >purplish crimson. A complete dog's breakfast.
> >Enough,
> >Simon
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> >Oudesluys
> >Sent: Friday, October 23, 2015 13:23
> >To: Bob Haskell; healeys at autox.team.net
> >Subject: Re: [Healeys] Suspension bushings - tangent
> >
> >Bob,
> >
> >Many more or less performance cars and a fair amount of FWD cars have a
> >stabiliser bar/tie rod or even a proper shock absorber to limit and/or
> >damp
> >torsional movement/vibration (Mini, Jensen Healey). Most of the time
> >though
> >this torsional movement is adequately dealt with by engine mountings that
> >are spaced sufficiently wide apart.
> >The gearbox mountings will only help if the rubber blocks on the
> >extensions
> >are spaced wide enough.
> >I cannot remember if that is the case on the AH's. To long ago (1965/6)
> >that
> >I owned one for a very short time. I think it was a 1954 or 1955 car
> >bought
> >for less than $100. Totally rotten.
> >
> >Cheers,
> >Kees Oudesluijs
> >
> >
> >Op 23-10-2015 om 13:09 schreef Bob Haskell:
> >> Kees,
> >>
> >> As mentioned the tie rod limits the fore/aft motion of the
> >> engine/gearbox assembly.  The gearbox mounting also includes a bracket
> >> with a rubber block on the left and right sides of the OD or gearbox
> >> extension (torsional) and a rubber bumper on the bottom side for the
> >> downward motion.
> >>
> >> Cheers,
> >>
> >> Bob Haskell
> >> AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
> >> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
> >>
> >> On 10/23/2015 06:32 AM, Oudesluys wrote:
> >>> I did not realise that the tie rod was orientated front/rear. In that
> >>> case you are absolutely right.
> >>> These rods are more usually used to prevent torsional movement of the
> >>> engine to keep clutch judder (amongst others) in control. I those
> >>> cases I would go for rubber bushes.
> >>> Kees Oudesluijs
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Op 23-10-2015 om 4:27 schreef WILLIAM B LAWRENCE:
> >>>> I think I disagree. The main purpose of the tie rod is to keep the
> >>>> engine from shifting forward and damaging the radiator. It has very
> >>>> little function as a shock absorber. Its orientation to the engine
> >>>> center line means there is little vibration in that direction. On
> >>>> the other hand the rubber bushings fail very quickly on exposure to
> >>>> oil and water. if the bushings fail and allow the engine to move
> >>>> forward under braking it can do some substantial damage. I think
> >>>> Austin probably would have used a more durable material in that
> >>>> place if one had been available (and economic). My car is not
> >>>> concours and never will be so my emphasis is going to be on
> >>>> durability. I'm definitely going to urethane for this application.
> >>>>
> >>>> Bill Lawrence
> >>>>
> >>>> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> >>>> > From: coudesluijs at chello.nl
> >>>> > Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 12:14:23 +0200
> >>>> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Suspension bushings - tangent
> >>>> >
> >>>> > I do not think so as this also has to work as a vibration damper
> >>>> > and rubber is better in that respect than PU. Perhaps you can fit
> >>>> > a
> >>>> sleeve
> >>>> > around it to protect it from oil.
> >>>> > Kees Oudesluijs
> >>>> >
> >>>> >
> >>>> > Op 22-10-2015 om 12:04 schreef Bob Haskell:
> >>>> > > Larry and Michael,
> >>>> > >
> >>>> > > Would you use urethane bushings for the engine tie rod
> >>>> > > (lower/rear gearbox/OD mount)? Urethane doesn't deteriorate like
> >>>> > > rubber when
> >>>> oil
> >>>> > > soaked. But it doesn't absorb as much shock loading either.
> >>>> > >
> >>>> > > Cheers,
> >>>> > >
> >>>> > > Bob Haskell
> >>>> > > AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
> >>>> > > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
> >>>> > >
> >>>> > > On 10/22/2015 04:04 AM, Larry Varley wrote:
> >>>> > >> Absolutely agree with Michael here, from past experience I
> >>>> > >> would completely avoid urethane for any car to replace original
> >>>> > >> rubber
> >>>> bushes.
> >>>> > >> Its a pity that the correct rubber bushes are not made, but I
> >>>> would
> >>>> > >> still use the reproductions rather than urethane. From an
> >>>> engineering
> >>>> > >> standpoint urethane has a totally different way of operating to
> >>>> what the
> >>>> > >> car was originally designed for, stretching rubber fixed
> >>>> > >> against
> >>>> steel
> >>>> > >> surfaces is not the same as rotating urethane on a pin. Has
> >>>> anyone ever
> >>>> > >> asked any of the urethane bush manufacturers if their products
> >>>> > >> are approved by current auto manufacturers, or if they will
> >>>> > >> accept
> >>>> liability
> >>>> > >> for any damage they will cause? I would prefer to stay with a
> >>>> product
> >>>> > >> that is as close as possible to the original specification. In
> >>>> closing,
> >>>> > >> enlighten me, do any current auto manufacturers use urethane as
> >>>> their
> >>>> > >> standard suspension bush?
> >>>> > >> Cheers
> >>>> > >> Larry Varley
> >>>> > >>
> >>>> > >> On 22/10/2015 7:08 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> >>>> > >>> Bob,
> >>>> > >>> I suspect that I'm not telling you anything that you don't
> >>>> already
> >>>> > >>> know here BUT:
> >>>> > >>> I think the critical point is that the original suspension
> >>>> bushes work
> >>>> > >>> in the same way that rubber engine mounts are designed to
> >>>> work. The
> >>>> > >>> steel mounting plates (or in the case of mounts steel tubes)
> >>>> > >>> are rigidly attached to parts that move relative to each other
> >>>> > >>> and
> >>>> that
> >>>> > >>> movement is accommodated by the flexing of the rubber medium
> >>>> bonded to
> >>>> > >>> each plate.
> >>>> > >>> The plastic bushes work more like bearings in that the
> >>>> > >>> rotational movement is accommodated by rotation of the bolt
> >>>> > >>> (shaft)
> >>>> within the
> >>>> > >>> bush (bearing). All very well while you are flying straight
> >>>> > >>> and
> >>>> level.
> >>>> > >>> The problem, as I see it, is that when angular displacement is
> >>>> > >>> required, as in body roll, the plastic bushes must distort and
> >>>> as the
> >>>> > >>> plastic is by necessity relatively rigid, when compared to the
> >>>> > >>> original rubber, the loads imparted to the mounting points
> >>>> will be
> >>>> > >>> substantially higher than that for which they were designed.
> >>>> > >>> Maybe you will get away with it, maybe you won't., I just
> >>>> don't want
> >>>> > >>> to be passing you in the opposite direction if you don't!!!!
> >>>> > >>> Michael S
> >>>> > >>> BN1 #174 (All rubber bushes :-))
> >>>> > >>>
> >>>> > >>
> >>>> > >>
> >>>> > >>
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> >>>> > >>
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> >>>> > > -----
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> >>>> > >
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> >>>
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> >> -----
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> >> Versie: 2015.0.6173 / Virusdatabase: 4450/10873 - datum van uitgifte:
> >> 10/22/15
> >>
> >>
> >
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